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Best AMC Radiator? |
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Rebel Machine 
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Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: Western Il Status: Offline Points: 5122 |
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 Posted: May/19/2021 at 4:28pm |
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I'd shorten the fan spacer but that would put the fan into the
blower pulley and tensioner. May be able to move it 1/8" back but no
more. The Cold Case radiator core is 3", which is 1/2" thicker than what I had. Not enough room. -Steve-  |
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304-dude
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Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9082 |
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Posted: May/19/2021 at 4:32pm |
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Going by my two cars with AC, the spacer and fan placement looks close to stock with your existing aluminum radiator. Maybe just a wee closer by its fitment with its mounting. Dont know but a big body radiator may work out as it is mounted on the other side of the mounting flanges.
That would cover some clearance issues with what ever you end up with. |
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71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum 
Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19672 |
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Posted: May/20/2021 at 7:08am |
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Engine Masters lost 28 hp with the plastic fan, 30 hp with the steel fan. So the plastic helps. The main point is both lost power over an engine run with NO engine driven fan. ANY engine driven fan takes power to run. Now this power loss was at PEAK hp -- high rpm. Doesn't lose that much at lower speeds. This is why many go for electric fans, but they too use power! A higher draw on a possibly bigger alternator. They don't lose as much as a mechanical fan though -- maybe half as much. Good idea, assuming you have room for and use good fans.
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Frank Swygert
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Rebel Machine
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Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: Western Il Status: Offline Points: 5122 |
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Posted: May/20/2021 at 6:45pm |
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Got a new fan today but it's 2 1/2" deep instead of the 2 1/4" like the previous one. Even so there may be another and better solution. Since I don't have power steering there's no reason to have the belt grooves in the water pump and crank pulleys. If Torqstorm could make me a custom pair of pulleys with the power steering grooves removed and the blower belt groove moved closer in that would buy a ton of room. The blower mounting posts could be shortened by the same amount so the blower and tensioner still line up. The inlet side of the blower would still have enough clearance away from the master cylinder. Even if the power steering grooves were left in place the blower pulley can come in 1/4" - 3/8" and still not interfere with the water pump pulley. I'm going to look into this. -Steve-  |
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Mopar_guy
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Joined: Jun/07/2009 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 4825 |
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Posted: May/21/2021 at 8:17am |
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I don't see how that's going to help because the thickness of the pulley at the water pump and crank flange is not vey thick, therefore not shrinking your distance. It's hard to say without seeing it in person but I think you're better off trying to move the radiator forward or getting a different style radiator to gain some room. Does your radiator support still have the standoffs on it to mount the radiator to? I removed them on mine which pushed my radiator about 4" forward. I'm not saying you need to switch to a GM crossflow radiator but I'm just showing you what removing those standoffs can do. Here's what mine looks like as an idea.
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304-dude
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Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9082 |
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Posted: May/21/2021 at 8:31am |
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From the pix, there seems to be very little room to work with. I am sure Javelins have a bit more room than Rebels up front. I am using rubber vibration damper spacers on mine and still have 3 inches up front for electric fans.
I am using a big block mopar radiator, there are many different mounting options which may allow mounting behind or offset to mount deeper. As there are many body styles for the same core setup. Unlike AMC, the Mopar radiator has mounting for shroud on the face of the radiator. One could adapt a bracket to mount using proper offset. I assume a big block Charger / Cuda radiator may fit without cutting the body... a guess since I have no clue to Rebel bodies. The 70 Coronet version I chose is wider by 1 inch, which required cutting. |
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71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
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Rebel Machine
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Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: Western Il Status: Offline Points: 5122 |
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Posted: May/21/2021 at 5:05pm |
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This installation is in a '69 AMX, which strangely has less room forward of the engine than my old '73 Gremlin. The radiator cannot go forward. It's stock location puts it right against the lower radiator support (where the horns mount). Sent a note to Torqstorm, they said they can make the custom pieces I described. It'll either be a major victory or an epic fail. The idea is to move things behind the fan 3/4" inwards then shorten the fan spacer 1/2". That will give me 3/4" clearance between the radiator and fan (currently only 1/4" clearance). -Steve- Edited by Rebel Machine - May/21/2021 at 5:40pm |
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bigbad69
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Joined: Jul/02/2007 Location: Ottawa, Ont. Status: Offline Points: 6666 |
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Posted: May/21/2021 at 6:02pm |
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Rebel Machine
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Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: Western Il Status: Offline Points: 5122 |
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Posted: Jul/08/2021 at 7:38pm |
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Just got the new pulleys from Torqstorm with the power steering grooves deleted and blower drive moved back 3/4". Might try to get them installed this weekend. -Steve-   |
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Rebel Machine wrote: