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Robm 
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Joined: Jul/11/2021 Location: Ontario Canada Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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 Posted: Jul/12/2021 at 7:27am |
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Yes , we did do this. Just feel like it’s off a bit as it seems to get over heated. Brand new record rad new hoses, clear heater core new thermostat and we do have flow through the rad. It’s my wife’s first build and she’s getting 🙁. Yes I am quite experienced and we do have STM’s for the car. 1960 American 195.6 flat head. Thanks for the reply!!
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tomj
AMC Addicted 
Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7555 |
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Posted: Jul/12/2021 at 11:31pm |
D'OH! I was assuming overhead valves. Sorry about that! |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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Robm
AMC Fan
Joined: Jul/11/2021 Location: Ontario Canada Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Posted: Jul/13/2021 at 7:17am |
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We got it running last night , super fast start up and smooth running. However even after removing the thermostat and heater core still getting over heated. Going to try adjusting the adjustment on the distributor tonight and get the timing closer. Thanks for all the suggestions!!! It’s coming along.
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum 
Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19692 |
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Posted: Jul/13/2021 at 8:48pm |
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Is it still the original radiator? It could be partially clogged even though you are getting flow. Removing the thermostat shouldn't do anything unless it's stuck shut/not opening. Try running with the heater core connected and the heat in the full hot position. That will give it a little more cooling. If that works could indicate a partially clogged radiator. A newly rebuilt engine will run hotter than normal for a while too. One more thing -- if it's not boiling over it's not overheating. Use a new 16# radiator cap and a 195 degree thermostat. It won't boil over until around 250 degrees, but should run in the 190-210 range. If it runs up to 220-230 until it breaks in (assuming a freshly rebuilt engine) that's fine. That shouldn't last for more than the first 200-500 miles though.
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Frank Swygert
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Robm
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Joined: Jul/11/2021 Location: Ontario Canada Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Posted: Jul/13/2021 at 9:54pm |
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The rad is recored, brand new 13# cap and 180 stat, she’s boiled over 2 times. We have also installed 2 9 “ electric fans. Engine block and head were boiled and check for cracks by a machine shop , new rings, valves, springs and obviously full gasket kit. I still have to adjust the adjuster on the distributor to get the timing back currently at about 14*. Another thing the exhaust at the tailpipe is hotter than what I feel is proper.
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tomj
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Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7555 |
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Posted: Jul/13/2021 at 11:35pm |
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Don't remove the thermostat. That deregulates the system and makes everything worse or at least complicated. 180's OK but 190 - 195 is correct, its in the service manual. WITH A WORKING COOLING SYSTEM a 195 thermostat will allow the engine to cool BETTER and FASTER.
The way out of this puzzle is diagnosis and measurement, with instruments. How are you setting timing? Get it to spec, 5 BTDC or whatever the TSM says. LATE timing makes engines run hot... You said it's a recent rebuild. Given that nothing is making sense, don't assume, check and measure. THe longer you run it in a bad state the more harm you can do. Make sure there is no oil film in the coolant. Make sure there is no water in the oil. I don't know the flatheads well -- I think the harmonic balancer has discrete rubber insulators? And not cast-in rubber? The OHV balancers can slip and indicate crazy-wrong timing. I think the flatheads cant' do that but I dont know. IF they can, check that. TIMING: pull #1 spark plug, and pull the coil wire out so that the car cannot run. Stick your finger into spark plug #1's hole, tightly. Bump the engine over until if farts your finger out. That's TDC power stroke #1. The timing mark ought to be very close to 0. THe rotor in the distributor shoudl be pointing at #1 plug wire. That's what SHOULD be indicated. Sometimes it helps to double-check assumptions... There are really basic mechanical, universal, things you can do to check that things are set up right. They're not hard to do, and they really are worth figuring out. If you really overheat that engine, and it's not all htat hard, you can ruin the block and all your work. Collapsed hoses, 'spun' impeller on the water pump, othwerwise bad pump (is it in the block? Or behind the generator? I forget the year, can't see while posting). |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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wittsend
AMC Nut
Joined: Apr/15/2020 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 430 |
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Posted: Jul/14/2021 at 11:44am |
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Yes, check for a collapsing lower hose. This typically will not happen at idle and everything will look correct. But revving up the engine will show if the hose is collapsing.
Small Block Fords are notorious for that happening. A friend with a V-8 Pinto and the Sunbeam Tiger community often had that problem. Properly sized large sprinkler springs can help prevent the collapsing. Just make sure it doesn't get sucked into the water pump!
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'63 American Hardtop
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Robm
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Joined: Jul/11/2021 Location: Ontario Canada Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Posted: Jul/14/2021 at 9:16pm |
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Hey fellas, got it cured. We adjusted the adjuster ont the distributor and achieved proper timing darn things a whole new car. Runs super and not getting hot. Thank you all for the advice and input. You’re a great lot of folks👍🍻
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum
Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19692 |
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Posted: Jul/15/2021 at 5:51am |
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Glad it was so easy!!
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Frank Swygert
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farna wrote: