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Fuse box

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Hayes89 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hayes89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Fuse box
    Posted: Dec/30/2020 at 2:48pm
Hello I've been going through my electrical for my 72 matador and I come to find out that a few of my fuse is do not work I replaced all of them even the ones that weren't cracked. And still nothing worked so I got a test light to see if the fuses were getting power and only one of them got power the rest I got nothing from. anybody know what I can do to resolve that issue I don't want to just start tearing apart and cleaning stuff up but that's what I got to do I'll do it
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troutwilly View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote troutwilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/30/2020 at 10:46pm
Random ramblings:
- Some fuses require the ignition key to be in the "run/on" position (or accessory position) to have power.
- Check continuity across the fuse when removed to verify fuse OK or not.
- Check continuity on your fuse block between the supply tab and the fuse holder.  Also check continuity on your fuse block between the fuse holder and powered item tab.  One side of the fuse holder should be connected to the supply tab, the other side of the fuse holder connects to the tab it is supplying power to.
- Make sure the fuse holders are clean and making good contact with the fuses.
Hope this helps.
Bill O.
70 AMX
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Hayes89 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hayes89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/31/2020 at 4:48am
Thanks so much I will double check and try this out at 1st daylight.
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tomj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/31/2020 at 11:37pm
It is very possible the fuse panel itself has failed. This is a common failure, made worse by trim and windshield leaks that drip water on it.

The faston connectios all need to be tight and shiny metal. Look for black, burned phenolic on the fuse panel with a very bright flashlight. That means chronic bad connections generating heat.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Hayes89 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hayes89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/03/2021 at 10:10pm
That's a good idea it may just be water damage, can that be fixed by replacing the prongs holding the fuses in place? Thanks so much for all the help
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tomj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/03/2021 at 10:23pm
The problem with the 60s/70's AMC fuse panels is inherent. Zinc plated brass, organic-resin-soaked fabric board, rivets. The rivets are not an excellent gas-tight crimp, so a tiny bit of dis-similar-metals corrosion sets in immediately, and after 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, ... years, ten milliohm resistance becomes 100, real voltage drop makes for real heat, and the riveted fuse clip to metal strip inside corrodes, and there is nothing to do except find a new one. I have had bad luck drilling out the rivets, cleaning up the metal and attempting to screw together, but maybe getting serious with a real rivet tool and the correct rivets.... 

I did soak mine in a weak phosphoric acid solution, took off all the corrosion on the fuse clips, brass-wire-brushed it, sprayed it with clear Krylon, etc. It's still in service a year later. I also had the windshield out to stop the leaks.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Hayes89 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hayes89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/06/2021 at 12:19pm
Thank you so much I'm going to try that out as soon as I'm done with this irritating problem
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