Electronic distributor for the 195.6 six

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   A word of warning if anyone is inclined to the original Ignitor I because it cost less. They are noted for burning up if the key is left on but the engine isn't turning. I've heard as short as 30 seconds. My Ignitor I came with a rebuilt distributor for $25 (shipped) so I'm not complaining... given the cost, - just careful. I have a slip connector between the Ignitor and the 12V source on the ignition switch. That way if I'm testing turn signals etc. I can have power but not fry the Pertronix.
Lastly read how the Pertronix works. The device itself and the coil need to be seen separately. So many think the Pertronix sends 12V + to the coil. No, it works just like points making and breaking the connection to ground. While the Pertronix device is rated for 9-12 volts I prefer a 12v switched source (the ignition key). Too often the Pertronix power gets connected to the resistor side at the coil and there are problems due to low voltage. Any resistance wire/ballast etc. is dependent upon the coil that is used, not the Pertronix itself (why they need to be seen separately). I believe the Pertronix brand coil (at least some) are a full 12 volts and there any resistance would be bypassed.

The Pertronix is a simple, straightforward device but it can be thrown askew by a wrong power source and improper voltage at the coil.

Edited by wittsend - Dec/29/2020 at 11:13am

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wittsend Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Nut Joined: Apr/15/2020 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 430	Post Options Post Reply Quote wittsend Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Dec/29/2020 at 11:11am
	A word of warning if anyone is inclined to the original Ignitor I because it cost less. They are noted for burning up if the key is left on but the engine isn't turning. I've heard as short as 30 seconds. My Ignitor I came with a rebuilt distributor for $25 (shipped) so I'm not complaining... given the cost, - just careful. I have a slip connector between the Ignitor and the 12V source on the ignition switch. That way if I'm testing turn signals etc. I can have power but not fry the Pertronix. Lastly read how the Pertronix works. The device itself and the coil need to be seen separately. So many think the Pertronix sends 12V + to the coil. No, it works just like points making and breaking the connection to ground. While the Pertronix device is rated for 9-12 volts I prefer a 12v switched source (the ignition key). Too often the Pertronix power gets connected to the resistor side at the coil and there are problems due to low voltage. Any resistance wire/ballast etc. is dependent upon the coil that is used, not the Pertronix itself (why they need to be seen separately). I believe the Pertronix brand coil (at least some) are a full 12 volts and there any resistance would be bypassed. The Pertronix is a simple, straightforward device but it can be thrown askew by a wrong power source and improper voltage at the coil. Edited by wittsend - Dec/29/2020 at 11:13am
	'63 American Hardtop

bigbad69 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/02/2007 Location: Ottawa, Ont. Status: Offline Points: 6685	Post Options Post Reply Quote bigbad69 Report Post Thanks(1) Quote Reply Posted: Dec/29/2020 at 2:26pm
	It is imperative that the ignition system be designed as a system. The coil must be matched to the primary voltage. If you have full 12V to the coil, pick a coil that works with 12V. If you have a resistance wire or ballast resistor, pick a coil the works with reduced primary voltage. Mostly, it boils down to the primary resistance of the coil. When going Pertronix, it is important to understand the differences in their products: Ignitor I is a "dumb" points replacement system which can operate 9-12V. Ignitor II improved the tendency to burn up if the key is left on. It can operate at 9V, but prefers 12V. Ignitor III offers a rev limiter and multi-spark, but requires a full 12V. It should be noted that leaving the key on has, historically, been a bad thing that could burn out your coil. If your Ignitor burns up in less than 30 seconds, you more than likely have a mismatched system. It is also important to understand spark plug technology. If the plug fires at 25kV, a coil that can produce 45kV is meaningless because it will never charge past 25kV. The marketing is smoke and mirrors. Bigger is not necessarily better. If you are racing, or running at high RPMs, then ignition modifications are necessary to keep the spark intensity because of reduced charging time for the coil. Most street applications will run just fine unmodified. The addition of electronic ignition provides the convenience of not maintaining the points - no more.

farna Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19689	Post Options Post Reply Quote farna Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Dec/30/2020 at 6:17am
	Very good summation bigbad69!! That's why there is an "accessory" position on the key switch -- you can run 12V power to most things without charging the ignition system. And "killer coils" just aren't normally necessary, though they don't usually hurt either. Marketing tends to lean toward perception and belief, not necessarily facts! Like some recent Chevy SUV commercials that tout the Suburban as "pioneering the SUV market". I wanted to dismiss this, but the first 1935-40 generation "Carryall Suburban" actually was a fore runner of a station wagon like passenger hauler with four doors built on a truck frame/cab (front sheet metal/doors). After WWII that changed to a simpler two door model (but still with three rows of seats). Much more utilitarian than today's SUVs -- Jeep pioneered the "luxury SUV" with the Super Wagoneer -- but then pretty much all truck-like vehicles were until the Super Waggie (with one or two short lived exceptions... maybe).
	Frank Swygert

Hemirambler Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Jan/18/2012 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 197	Post Options Post Reply Quote Hemirambler Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jun/11/2021 at 7:32pm
	In my experience the quality of the aftermarket replacement components varies wildly. I put together a "divorced" HEI set up once and went thru two modules in a couple months (new from parts store) got a USED GM module and ran it for years without issue. One example of many. WRT to the 195.6 OHV I converted one to electronic using Mopar Slant 6 internals. I tack welded the mopar "points" plate (what is that actually called in a electronic dizzy?) anyways I tacked that together and then machined off the points cam installed the mopar reluctor and it still uses the Rambler rotor. Dizzy now looks stock (less the second wire) and It's been working perfectly for years with all OEM (albeit different OEMs) parts. No aftermarket and their hit or miss quality. YMMV
	1964 American Convertible (stock) 1964 American Hardtop (Not Stock)

wittsend Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Nut Joined: Apr/15/2020 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 430	Post Options Post Reply Quote wittsend Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jun/11/2021 at 10:18pm
	It is too strange that I have been intending to do the same thing (Mopar electronics in the AMC distributor). The last few trips to Pick Your Part, - NO slant six motors and thus no reluctor. Last time I was at the Mopar Fling in Van Nuys, (billed as the largest Mopar event West of the Mississippi) was Fall 2019, before Covid. There were no slant six distributors - or parts, - anywhere. I'm too cheap to spring $20 for a part a 10,000 people probably have rattling around in a parts box somewhere. Or..., maybe they have all been thrown away and there are few to be found???
	'63 American Hardtop

IowaTom Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Nut Joined: Mar/07/2018 Location: Kent Washington Status: Offline Points: 448	Post Options Post Reply Quote IowaTom Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jun/14/2021 at 6:48pm
	My notes say I have a Pertronix #2161 in my '59 Super's OHV six. Works fine!