rear side window adjustment

Hi Bruce,

Last year I did that job on my 1973 AMX and it was difficult. On one hand the water strip didn´t fit very nice and need time to go by itself to its place. I had to do one fit of the glass and a few months later do it again. On the other hand the actual glass fitting is difficult do it.

To know how to do it check the Technical Service Manual, it helps me a lot.

Bye Pablo

1973 JAVELIN AMX 360 AUTO
1973 DODGE 3700 GT (built in Spain)
SPAIN (EUROPE)

Hi,

Did you ever figure out the window adjustments for the marlin? I am having the same issues. And I have read the tech manual numerous times. The images don't quite match my 66.

DPH

Well, I spent the weekend with the Marlin's back seats out and the rear passenger panels disassembled and I finally figured out the adjusting mechanisms and the geometry of the windows.

And of course the instructions in the repair manual now make more sense. Eventually, I'm going to write some easier-to-understand instructions with better pictures (and corrections)and post them on my website. But for now here are a couple of tech tips to try (these worked in my situation):

1) There are four rollers in the window, two on the frame that sit in the guide, one on the frame that sits in the very back corner of the window, and one on the regulator. The second guide roller had been worn out then ground flat, allowing it to pop out of the guide track. This adjustable roller is not riveted directly to the frame, it is on a shaft with a slotted end and jamb nut and is threaded into the frame. The window still rolled up fine but when it got near the top, it was way out of alignment, creating the gap between the two windows. My solution was to drill out the rivet put on a new roller, then drill and tap a small screw to hold the new roller. After greasing all the tracks it worked much better. I did the final tweaks by cheating and moving the window drip-edge tab out about 3/16 then re-drilling the screw. This is likely a hack but it did the job. I now have less that a 1/4 gap between the windows. Once I get new weather stripping, that gap will be covered.

2) The other side was different. All of the rollers were fine but the reproduction drip weather stripping was just a tad larger than the original. It was bunching up in the rear corner, keeping the frame from seating properly. The geometry on these windows is such that even after the front top of the window seats against the drip rubber it still needs to move/slide forward to allow the rear corner to come up and seat as well. I adjusted the rear roller (it has a similar set up to the middle guide roller except it is spring loaded). That helped but I tweaked the fit by loosening the guide plate bolts and sliding it forward. That took the complete window and regulator with it. I now have around 3/8 gap which should be covered by new rubber stripping.

I hope this helps. One other point: some of the adjustments can be done without taking the metal panel off but not all (like the manual claims). Look for the plastic plugs for those access points. Even though it was more work, taking off the metal panel and removing the regulator gave me a better understanding of how it all was supposed to work.

Best of luck

David

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detmarlin65 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Jul/12/2015 Location: Tampa,Florida Status: Offline Points: 180	Post Options Post Reply Quote detmarlin65 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: rear side window adjustment Posted: Dec/18/2020 at 7:44pm
	need to know if you can adjust rear side windows on 1965 amc marlin, replace the weather strip roof rails now it doesn't close properly. gap between front window and rear window, remove rear window interior panel and assembly , but i don't see any where you can adjust the window, is there an adjustment? thanks
	BjH

PABLO Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Nut Joined: Aug/25/2017 Location: VIGO SPAIN Status: Offline Points: 332	Post Options Post Reply Quote PABLO Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Dec/19/2020 at 4:58am
	Hi Bruce, Last year I did that job on my 1973 AMX and it was difficult. On one hand the water strip didn´t fit very nice and need time to go by itself to its place. I had to do one fit of the glass and a few months later do it again. On the other hand the actual glass fitting is difficult do it. To know how to do it check the Technical Service Manual, it helps me a lot. Bye Pablo
	1973 JAVELIN AMX 360 AUTO 1973 DODGE 3700 GT (built in Spain) SPAIN (EUROPE)

detmarlin65 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Jul/12/2015 Location: Tampa,Florida Status: Offline Points: 180	Post Options Post Reply Quote detmarlin65 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Dec/19/2020 at 7:36am
	thanks for the info, i have a service manual doesn't help much.
	BjH

davidharris Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Fan Joined: Oct/20/2022 Location: Normal IL Status: Offline Points: 2	Post Options Post Reply Quote davidharris Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Oct/20/2022 at 1:55pm
	Hi, Did you ever figure out the window adjustments for the marlin? I am having the same issues. And I have read the tech manual numerous times. The images don't quite match my 66. DPH

detmarlin65 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Jul/12/2015 Location: Tampa,Florida Status: Offline Points: 180	Post Options Post Reply Quote detmarlin65 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Oct/20/2022 at 2:42pm
	no, still has gaps in windows, haven't mess with it since
	BjH

davidharris Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Fan Joined: Oct/20/2022 Location: Normal IL Status: Offline Points: 2	Post Options Post Reply Quote davidharris Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Oct/26/2022 at 11:45am
	Well, I spent the weekend with the Marlin's back seats out and the rear passenger panels disassembled and I finally figured out the adjusting mechanisms and the geometry of the windows. And of course the instructions in the repair manual now make more sense. Eventually, I'm going to write some easier-to-understand instructions with better pictures (and corrections)and post them on my website. But for now here are a couple of tech tips to try (these worked in my situation): 1) There are four rollers in the window, two on the frame that sit in the guide, one on the frame that sits in the very back corner of the window, and one on the regulator. The second guide roller had been worn out then ground flat, allowing it to pop out of the guide track. This adjustable roller is not riveted directly to the frame, it is on a shaft with a slotted end and jamb nut and is threaded into the frame. The window still rolled up fine but when it got near the top, it was way out of alignment, creating the gap between the two windows. My solution was to drill out the rivet put on a new roller, then drill and tap a small screw to hold the new roller. After greasing all the tracks it worked much better. I did the final tweaks by cheating and moving the window drip-edge tab out about 3/16 then re-drilling the screw. This is likely a hack but it did the job. I now have less that a 1/4 gap between the windows. Once I get new weather stripping, that gap will be covered. 2) The other side was different. All of the rollers were fine but the reproduction drip weather stripping was just a tad larger than the original. It was bunching up in the rear corner, keeping the frame from seating properly. The geometry on these windows is such that even after the front top of the window seats against the drip rubber it still needs to move/slide forward to allow the rear corner to come up and seat as well. I adjusted the rear roller (it has a similar set up to the middle guide roller except it is spring loaded). That helped but I tweaked the fit by loosening the guide plate bolts and sliding it forward. That took the complete window and regulator with it. I now have around 3/8 gap which should be covered by new rubber stripping. I hope this helps. One other point: some of the adjustments can be done without taking the metal panel off but not all (like the manual claims). Look for the plastic plugs for those access points. Even though it was more work, taking off the metal panel and removing the regulator gave me a better understanding of how it all was supposed to work. Best of luck David