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heater valve thread sealant |
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6PakBee
Supporter of TheAMCForum Charter Member Joined: Jul/01/2007 Location: North Dakota Status: Offline Points: 5457 |
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Okay, this is based on my personal experience and should be considered an opinion. When I first started using the 565 I'd tighten fittings as I had with tape. That was a mistake. 565 is an anaerobic sealer, and cures in absence of air so it would cure in the threads. I ended up with some fittings I could not disassemble without destroying the fittings. Once I learned that I wasn't torquing lug nuts, I have had much better success. As White70JavelinSST pointed out, you have to remember how pipe threads seal, the threads are tapered so that you end up with metal to metal interference which provides a seal. In a perfect world this works fine. But if either thread, male or female, is degraded, you will probably have a weeper. 565's strong suit is that it fills in damaged or degraded areas of the threads and gives you a leak proof seal without reefing on the fitting. If you are uncomfortable using an anaerobic sealer (there are others beside 565), by all means use something else. Whatever you do, chasing the female threads in a threaded NPT joint is always a good idea. As to what did the factory do? I have no idea. As an example, if I get an OEM threaded part from a dealership for a current automobile like a temperature sensor or a oil pressure sensor, there will be sealant on the threads. Aftermarket, sometimes you get sealer, sometimes you don't. Here are two examples. With sealer. Without sealer: I don't know if this helped or just muddied the waters but it's my best shot.
Edited by 6PakBee - Jan/15/2021 at 9:37am |
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Roger Gazur
1969 'B' Scheme SC/Rambler 1970 RWB 4-spd Machine 1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX All project cars. Forum Cockroach |
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69Auto290
AMC Apprentice Joined: Feb/27/2020 Location: York PA Status: Offline Points: 65 |
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I failed to update this as I should have. The last thing I wanted to do was force the removal of the old valve and end up twisting it off in the intake manifold. I'd rather put up with heater in the driving months than to have to park it until I had time to pull the intake manifold to remove what remained in the port from breaking it. I took the car to my local garage and explained the issue and my fears. I figured this guy had decades of experience, which I don't have (centuries of experience if you look at the fact he's in his shop 50+ hours a week). He tried to remove it, and it wouldn't budge. So, he did exactly what I was thinking of doing but didn't have the gonads to try - he broke out the 24" pipe wrench. That did 'er. Once it broke free, out it came. He has a can of thread sealant. No idea what it is, there is way too many smears on the can to make out anything anymore. He simply put that on the threads, installed the new valve, and it's been fine ever since. I'll have to ask him what brand/type of sealant he uses. Maybe he remembers, but maybe the (rather large can - must be a quart or more) has been around for so long and so rarely used that he doesn't remember. If/when I find out what it is, I'll post it. Oh - he told me to bring it by often. He misses working on the old iron and loves to every chance he gets. Can't blame him after watching him pretend he was Gumby to install new spark plugs in a Nissan.
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Dave@my69AMX.us
'69 AMX 290 Automatic '73 Javelin AMX 360 Automatic '77 Jeep CJ5 304 3 speed manual |
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