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Ongoing Problem: Engine Stalls When Put in Gear |
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WhatISit 
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Joined: Aug/07/2017 Location: Phoenix, AZ Status: Offline Points: 0 |
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 Posted: Mar/04/2018 at 10:51am |
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Yea, I’m kinda leaning towards what Boris is saying... We have something like 26 degrees of initial timing—not sure of the total advance yet. Drove it and there wasn’t any spark knock, though. At 26 degrees advance I’m sure it’s over 36-38 total though at 3200 RPM.
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Boris Badanov
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Joined: Dec/14/2013 Location: NH USA Status: Offline Points: 4209 |
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Posted: Mar/04/2018 at 11:14am |
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Try this. Lock up the distributer timing, that is no mech or vacuum advance at all. Back the timing off and start it. Set it for 36 degrees while it's running at idle. Then adjust the idle and mixture. My guess is that it will be good. I will recommend retarding for starting so not to break stuff like starters... So this is a band aid test. When it works you will need to look into a way to retard the timing for start up. MSD may be your best solution. I have done this with a stock 360 running a Crane Fireball cam. I just locked it in, no advance in the distributer at all. AND it was a stick.... Funny thing is that it started easily but it was around 8:1 compression. Try it you'll like it. |
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Gremlin Dreams
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tached_out
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Joined: Feb/08/2008 Location: Vancouver, BC Status: Offline Points: 328 |
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Posted: Mar/04/2018 at 11:25am |
You're taking a step in the wrong direction here. This is delaying advance when you need it most. You need all the advance you can get and you need it at idle. Here is an excerpt from another thread on the same subject. "I can tell you right now your lack of spark advance is killing HP at the starting line and all the way down the track.
Your distributor should go to full advance (around 38 degrees) and stay there as soon as the engine starts. I ran a 360 powered 3,000 pound (with driver) Gremlin for several years. My combo wasn't that much different to your's. I got a best of 11.36 @ 120 mph. 60' times were 1.5 seconds. I ran a single point distributor with Accell racing points and an Accell Super Coil. Here's what I did to the distributor. I removed the vacuum advance unit and locked the plate in place with a small bolt and nut. You can accomplish the same thing by simply disconnecting it and leaving it in place. I made myself a set of super weak advance springs from a ballpoint pen. The springs were just strong enough to hold the weights in while the engine was stopped and while it was cranking. As soon as it fired, The weights went to full advance. 36 degrees worked best for me. Don't worry what you have at idle, just concern yourself with the total which you can observe with a light as soon as it's running." |
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tached_out
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Joined: Feb/08/2008 Location: Vancouver, BC Status: Offline Points: 328 |
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Posted: Mar/04/2018 at 11:37am |
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The set up I described above is a poor man's variation of what Boris is describing. You simply have a centrifugal retard for easy starting.
You'll need to make a mark on your dampener where you can accurately check for full advance.
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auag85201
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Joined: Sep/26/2017 Location: arizona Status: Offline Points: 138 |
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Posted: Mar/04/2018 at 11:57am |
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i hate to be a stick in the mud ..but that cam is going to be a thorn in your side that you cant fix....if you had a 4 speed you could get by with that cam....you would save your self alot of future misery by snatching that cam out and replacing it with one that better suits your needs ...you can try to bandaid it but it would be easier to replace it
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WhatISit
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Joined: Aug/07/2017 Location: Phoenix, AZ Status: Offline Points: 0 |
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Posted: Mar/04/2018 at 12:41pm |
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I'd like to hear more about using the programmable ignition to help alleviate the problems I'm having. (I know just enough about timing to get me in trouble--as is evident)
I am, however, planning on swapping out the cam at some point. I just want to be able to drive the car for a little while before I go and pull the engine out again. 
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auag85201
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Posted: Mar/04/2018 at 1:37pm |
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do you have to go through emissions with this car/?
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tached_out
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Joined: Feb/08/2008 Location: Vancouver, BC Status: Offline Points: 328 |
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Posted: Mar/04/2018 at 1:37pm |
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There's nothing wrong with lack of knowledge. There are people here willing to share their's. There's good advice in this thread and the other one you started on the same subject. The problem is it's hard to see because it's buried within a lot of (I'm sure well intended) bad advice.
You don't have to get rid of your cam. It's not the best choice by far but it's still usable. You just have to tune with it as part of your overall combination. Do you have a programable ignition? I read in the other thread, you have a stock distributor with a Pertronix conversion. You don't have to spend any more money. You already have what you need. Read on. You need so much advance at idle that you may as well have it all. No centrifugal, no vacuum, no advance curve at all. The only problem this might cause is hard cranking. If that happens, you just need to take a little away while cranking. But you want it all back as soon as the engine starts. First and foremost you absolutely must determine what your total advance is before you go any further. You will damage your motor with too much. You won't make any power with too little. Here's an excerpt from another tread I commented in.
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Boris Badanov
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Joined: Dec/14/2013 Location: NH USA Status: Offline Points: 4209 |
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Posted: Mar/04/2018 at 2:14pm |
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Before you spend silly money, try the simple cheap approach.
Then you got to decide the best options. New milder cam or a programmable ignition. I recommend a real cheap test, do a compression test. |
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Gremlin Dreams
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auag85201
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Joined: Sep/26/2017 Location: arizona Status: Offline Points: 138 |
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Posted: Mar/04/2018 at 2:34pm |
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i dont see where anyone here has given the man any bad advice ...just opinions....
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WhatISit wrote: