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Junk yard 360 what do I do to it

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Lyle View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lyle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/06/2017 at 11:26am
Counting and breathing. Almost every manufacturer had oiling issues with wet sumps and it was not the engine or the engineers - it was the driver. The extra quart of oil is just cheap insurance for someone who may be having "fun"!
A quote from a respected engine builder - non AMC:
“Often, the biggest disadvantage to a wet sump system is the need to keep the pickup covered through oil control. This can become tricky in high-performance or spirited driving. Whether on the street, drag racing at the track, or turning through the corners on an autocross course, high-g loads can cause oil to move away from the pickup and leave the system open to cavitation. This could potentially starve the engine of oil or at the least cause a drop in oil pressure."
Agree there is nothing wrong with an AMC engine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote raser13 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/06/2017 at 11:35am
The plan was to refresh all of the main parts that I need to. Basically we're going to keep the block, the pistons(as long as the look good once we pull them, the rods if they're good,heads, intake,valves maybe, crank if it mics out right,cam if don't swap for a better one. And all related covers. But I was just curious if there was a better pump or part to definitely get or a certain thing to pay attention to just because it was an AMC 360. Or if you just build and blueprint it just like any other motor. Sounds like the consensus is to just build it like any other mohtor and that there really isn't any AMC specific "tweaks" to look out for.

Edited by raser13 - Nov/06/2017 at 11:38am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 401MATCOUPE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/06/2017 at 11:42am
Originally posted by amcenthusiast amcenthusiast wrote:

Oh what a tangled web is weaved when at first people are deceived by what they are misled to believe...

OK... so the entire world can hear us, everybody shout together on the count of three:

...one, two, three...

THE '66-'91 AM V8 DOES NOT HAVE 'OILING ISSUES' !

The oil system issue myth is related to a very real phenomena I have identified and named 'AMC Underdog Complex'. -in short, this is where a certain portion of people become obsessed with discussing real or unreal perceived negative features about the cars (many many examples of these myths in AMC folklore)

Even more basic than that there is the German proverb which states:

'Fear makes the wolf seem bigger than he really is.'

(people tend to exaggerate things they don't truly understand: eg: 'sea monsters' will kill you if you try to sail across the ocean)


Be sensible about it.

Just properly rebuild* the engine and add a few well proven bolt on parts.

It'll look great, run great and you'll have a blast with the vehicle.


*Get a Chilton's Repair Manual and an AMC Technical Service Manual for your vehicle; these are the basic essential books needed by every AMCer to better enjoy their car.
----------------------------------------------------------

IF you intend to build a 'real' race engine... good advice gets a lot more complicated, and is beyond the scope of this original question.

The first place to start if you are interested in making any modifications to your AM V8 is buy and read your own copy of AM's book named "Performance American Style".

For the money, the excellent advice as expressed by the AM engineers who wrote it is a treasure-trove of top shelf high performance know-how and information.

Reading 'The Book' is prerequisite to asking any more intelligent questions on the matter of hopping up the engine.

(by doing so, you will prevent your own embarrassment for not asking 'stupid' questions in ignorance ...I know you are not stupid, but perhaps new to AMC methodology)






Thank you for posting this...I just didn't have the energy!  I just built and installed my 102nd AMC V-8  engine, in just about every body style and year from 67 up.  Pacer 401 to AMX 290, to Matador Coupe 401.....I even did a I6 258 swap in a 83 Concord Wagon to V-8 304....that was a challenge....Eddie Marquez drives it every day....ask him......he always has it at the AMC Swap meets to bring parts here in the East.  I have never installed any of the oiling mods EVER.  All my builds are dead stock to minor, intake, carb, ignition, head changes.  All are 10.5 or less to 1 compression and no high rev's 6500 MAX.  I make sure all the clearances are within the limits and use high quality parts.....I never have oil pressure issues or have had an engine come back with any oil system related issues.   Keep everything as clean as an operating room, covered when you are not working on it, bag it with a 55 gallon drum bag.  Double check all your clearances.  You can build a very reliable AMC without a lot of "tricks"....just common sense.

If you have deep pockets then all cards are off and you better have your s**t together our you will be just building a mess that is never right.
Ross K. Peterson
68X,GoPac,343,AT,52A(1stCar)
68X,GoPac,390,4sp,52A
69X,GoPac,390,4sp,64A
70X,GoPac,390,4sp,87A,8
70X,GoPac,390,4sp,BBO,8
70 Jav SST,390,AT,BSO
74MatX,401,AT,Prototype
74MatX,401,AT
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raser13 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote raser13 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/06/2017 at 1:09pm
My pockets hardly exist at all.lol. but I have no problem spending money where it's needed. I can cut corners here and there and make it work. But I know that when it comes to motors and brakes you don't cut Corners at all. So if there's something to do to the motor while it's apart I have problem doing it. Or better rebuild kits to get or ones to stay away from. That kind of things I need to know.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/06/2017 at 1:17pm
AMEN - and ten years of posts about oiling mods supports Ross's and others' positions. Ain't necessary at all. And no high-vol pump will increase "PRESSURE" if the rest of the engine is built to SPECS.
You build pressure when a fluid is pumped against a resistance. If a stock pump tops out at 70 psi due to the relieve spring, and a high-vol pump uses the same spring - it's going to stop at 70
I built more engines than I care to count - likely I'm behind Ross on AMC's specifically, but well over that if you include other makes. I started out working in a shop that had been part of an AMC dealership. We had the proper tools (and I now have many of them thanks to my former boss) and most of our customers were still AMC/Rambler people while I worked there as they had bought their cars from Dana Charter and Andy, Dana's shop guy, worked on them. Andy hired me - so I started my auto experience with AMCs of all types, from the late 50's Ramblers to AMX, which my boss, Andy, still referred to as RAMBLERS ("Bill, go get that green Rambler our front and check the valve seals"- that green Rambler was a 4 speed Forest Green AMX with a 390 HAHAHA)
As long as you build them to specs and IMO, keep to the lower side of clearances, etc. - no troubles. 
The ONLY time I've seen them starving for oil is when they are low (A quart low, a long highway drive then a sudden stop or turn). In my experience, even bearing issues were rare.
My 70 390 I rebuilt ten years ago and it still pulls 70 psi on the Interstate and is sitting pretty nice at hot idle too.
Ross really nailed it-  CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN. Scrub the cylinders and finish up with a white cloth. Leave no lint. Don't trust that anyone else cleaned things "good enough". I use white pipe cleaners on all oil passages and I scrub cylinders with hot soapy water, rinse well and oil 'em up and then bag 'em. I have my wife save all her quilt batting bags because those are heavy plastic and the perfect size for a V8 engine short block. 
Once I get caught back up on the starters, alternators and wiper motors on the shelves - I have several AMC engines sitting to build and I'll do them like I have always done and oil pressure will be great. 
My 73 has a built 360 and it runs scary fast, NO oil mods, dyno roughly 400 hp and I beat on it a bit. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/06/2017 at 1:32pm
For the 304 and 360... stock, no oiling issues I have found, as long as you keep the oil level at 5 quarts or +1.

I literally ran my 304 like it had WOT only mode.

Discovered 3 things... factory valve springs are a wee weak, and cannot keep up with RPM above 4500 for long durations. Dropped a valve as I released the throttle, but did not kill my piston.

Number 2, Carter fuel pump arms can break off into the timing cover. Broke the timing chain, had a few bent push rods and created a weak bridged rocker rocker cap screw. It snapped when removing.

NUMBER 3, you will see a factory carb rebuild before the engine gets close to needing rebuilt.

71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Lyle View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lyle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/06/2017 at 2:32pm
304-dude - exactly why AMC'ers got the bad rap, way too much fun dude. You would have blown up any make with that much lead in your foot. Just too many of us having "fun" with our cars because we can. Did they ever find a way to take a little bit of lead out of that foot???
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/06/2017 at 4:27pm
Not until I got rid of it. The stock 304 automatic with a spread bore Holley 650 double pumper mounted on an Offy spread bore medium rise and a 1 inch spacer with a wee jetting and advance curve kit, along with half length dual exhaust and a Dodge Coronet 2.76 rearend, made for some long 1st gear runs. 55 MPH was my shift into 2nd. Loved getting on the Hwy and interstate in 1st. 2nd was fun as well. Did not have the quick launches but I did move along very quick once I hit the 50 foot mark. My cousin enjoyed seeing me just about take his 454 dually with pull gears before the end of a farmers road.

Got 21 mpg Hwy at 60 with laws being 55 on US 101. In town about 15 or so. The spread bore was a perfect fit for economy, performance and tuning.

71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote raser13 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/06/2017 at 5:23pm
Don't plan to have this any where near wide open much. Like I said my days of going 100 miles an hour down the highway are pretty much over. Flipping and rolling a car will take that right out of you. Lol. But I would still like a V-8 that can Handel taking off fast from a red light. Or lay some rubber if I feel the need to. So no reason to argue guys.

So no oil pressure problem to worry about. Good thing to know. So basically port and polish things. Replace all the wear parts. Clean the heck out of it. That parts easy. My uncle has a hot bath to put every thing in and soak. So no major upgrades needed unless I want to drag race it.

I tend to run electric fuel pumps. The AMX probably will have one as well. So no arm to worry about breaking off. I'm also going to add electric Taurus fans to it and a four core radiator for a full sized jeep so cooling shouldn't be a problem.

As for finding a tranny for it. That isn't a huge problem. Yes an AMC T-5 us a rare beast. Ford ones are not. So unfortunately ish This will be the trans I will be using In the car. This is going to be my only concession on putting another makes part in the car. I already have everything I need for the conversion to put it in. So is all I need to do is get one and rebuild it to go in. Ford used them in almost everything from the mid 70's to the early 2000's. The car Was originally 360 3 speed car. So I'm at least getting closer to being right equipment. But I really want the extra gears for highway driving. Which I do a lot of. I'm sure I'll get a three speed for it some day and squirel it away for the day I go all restoration on it.

Edited by raser13 - Nov/06/2017 at 5:34pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote purple72Gremlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/06/2017 at 8:16pm
The 3spd will do the job if you are short on the $$
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