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AMX 401 Take 4

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Orchuck View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orchuck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/06/2014 at 10:43pm
Did I miss the part about the lifter bore and lifter clearance?
1969 Javelin SST, BBO, 390, Air, Auto PS/PB, Tilt, GoPac
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigbad69 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/07/2014 at 7:44am
Originally posted by Rebel Machine Rebel Machine wrote:

I'm betting it's a drainback problem.
If it is just a drainback problem, then you should be able to recreate it on the test stand. If you can't, then at least part of it has to do with the acceleration force when the car is moving. i.e. oil shifting in the pan, possibly uncovering the pickup.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boris Badanov Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/07/2014 at 7:56am
Originally posted by bigbad69 bigbad69 wrote:

Originally posted by Rebel Machine Rebel Machine wrote:

I'm betting it's a drainback problem.
If it is just a drainback problem, then you should be able to recreate it on the test stand. If you can't, then at least part of it has to do with the acceleration force when the car is moving. i.e. oil shifting in the pan, possibly uncovering the pickup.
 
Yes, the acceleration is part of the problem!
Oil stacks up in the valve covers, can not get back yo the pan because
the oil return passages are inadequate.
Then the second trap is the lifter gallery further slowing the return under acceleration.
 
A slow cascade of oil returning combined with anti pump up lifters
doing what they are supposed to do. Sending more oil out
than stock lifters. That is how they avoid valve float/pump up.
Where does that extra oil go?
Answer is to the rockers and valves.
 
You are also accelerating hard, acceleration forces (G forces) push the remainig
oil to the back of the pan and uncover the pickup.
 
This  problem can be mitigated by a 8 quart sump pan.
The solution is to provide a better drain back.
 
This one can not be fixed by throwing money at it.
A deeper pan can help, and stop the oil pressure crash.
But the problem remains.
 
A cheap solution may be to cut and weld the stock pan.
Squaring up the pan and moving the pick up back may help oil pressure
but it will need aditional baffeling and or doors to prevent
the same problem under hard braking.
Just squaring up the back of the pan in a similar way to the Milodon pan
will add over a quart of oil capacity. I would rather buy a Milodon pan
and cut and weld it as needed for ground clearance.
 
My current 435 inch 401 build will have external drains and a modded Milodon pan.
 


Edited by Boris Badanov - Jun/07/2014 at 8:08am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Red Devil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/07/2014 at 3:40pm
I don't understand the resistance to a high-capacity baffled pan and the thinking that a dynamic oil supply issue can be solved by concentrating solely on the gravity-return system.   To me that's like pissing into the wind and hoping you'll stay dry - sometimes you'll get lucky, sometimes you'll get wet.

The only way to ensure positive oil return is to add scavenge pumps.   Short of that, a high-capacity baffled pan with windage tray and improved pickup is your best bet ... if it wants to pump more oil, it needs more oil to pump!

Compared to the rest of the expense in building a performance engine and the risk of damage due to lost lubrication, to me a better pan just makes sense. There is also power in a better pan. A deep pan is fine for drag and some street, but a pan with road-race type baffling is the best bet if planning some hard cornering or braking.     

Lots of builds get away with a stock pan, but it's pretty clear this build does not. Haven't seen any "smoking-gun" showing excessive leakage or loose clearances from the inspections thus far.    

In my 1972 owner's manual on pg.5 "Oil-Pressure Gauge (Oil)" it states:

"... Sudden turns or stops can cause a momentary pressure drop."

So dynamic loading can cause a momentary loss of pressure with the stock oiling system. Sounds exactly like what Steve described doesn't it? To me a stock pan just isn't up to the job of a performance build.

Hope this helps, RD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel Machine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/07/2014 at 3:52pm
Found these on Youtube. Looks like a bit of water in the oil. Wish I could see what's happening at the timing gear/fuel pump eccentric.

-Steve-






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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amc67rogue Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/07/2014 at 5:44pm
When I ran 5 Qts. in my 67 American V8 ,if it was 1/2 Qt. low the oil light would come on when making a left turn. I went to 6 Qts. and the light never came on anymore.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 73hornut Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/07/2014 at 5:44pm
Originally posted by Red Devil Red Devil wrote:

I don't understand the resistance to a high-capacity baffled pan and the thinking that a dynamic oil supply issue can be solved by concentrating solely on the gravity-return system.   To me that's like pissing into the wind and hoping you'll stay dry - sometimes you'll get lucky, sometimes you'll get wet.

The only way to ensure positive oil return is to add scavenge pumps.   Short of that, a high-capacity baffled pan with windage tray and improved pickup is your best bet ... if it wants to pump more oil, it needs more oil to pump!

Compared to the rest of the expense in building a performance engine and the risk of damage due to lost lubrication, to me a better pan just makes sense. There is also power in a better pan. A deep pan is fine for drag and some street, but a pan with road-race type baffling is the best bet if planning some hard cornering or braking.     

Lots of builds get away with a stock pan, but it's pretty clear this build does not. Haven't seen any "smoking-gun" showing excessive leakage or loose clearances from the inspections thus far.    

In my 1972 owner's manual on pg.5 "Oil-Pressure Gauge (Oil)" it states:

"... Sudden turns or stops can cause a momentary pressure drop."

So dynamic loading can cause a momentary loss of pressure with the stock oiling system. Sounds exactly like what Steve described doesn't it? To me a stock pan just isn't up to the job of a performance build.

Hope this helps, RD
Ya, but remember, he was only hitting passing gear, not drag racing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel Machine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/07/2014 at 6:15pm
Okay, I'm probably going to get an aftermarket oil pan because it makes sense to have more oil capacity

There aren't many to choose from. Looks like Canton and Milodon are the only aftermarket manufacturers.

Milodon offers a street/strip pan that is 9 inches depth. The Canton pan is shown to be a road race pan at 8 inches. Both are 8 quart.

I'm leaning towards the Canton as long as it clears the headers.
Any preferences?

-Steve-
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boris Badanov Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/07/2014 at 6:40pm
I owned a Milodon, the quality is excellent and it clears everything
just fine except the ground :(
 
But you MUST get the Milodon pickup if you are going to use the stock pan rail
location for the pickup.
 
On my current build I am chopping off the bottom and raising it to the cross member height.
That will cost a quart in capacity. Oil pickup is external, the pan rail is going to be used as a return.
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Slate Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/07/2014 at 9:47pm
Originally posted by Rebel Machine Rebel Machine wrote:

Okay, I'm probably going to get an aftermarket oil pan because it makes sense to have more oil capacity

There aren't many to choose from. Looks like Canton and Milodon are the only aftermarket manufacturers.

Milodon offers a street/strip pan that is 9 inches depth. The Canton pan is shown to be a road race pan at 8 inches. Both are 8 quart.

I'm leaning towards the Canton as long as it clears the headers.
Any preferences?

-Steve-




My other pan will be Armandos. Current one is a homemade roadrace one that I like.

Steve
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