manual to power brakes

Hi, hate to jump in and ask my own question but I have a 1961 Rambler American Wagon that I am trying to do the same thing with.  Did they offer power brakes on this model and if so where can I get some parts?  Again sorry to jump in here but I figured the experts might be able to answer both of us at once.  Thanks

I've covered this before, but here goes again!

AMC used Bendix brakes for the most part in the early 60s. Some cars had Wagner systems, but they function and mount pretty much the same as the Bendix. Ford also used Bendix -- I think Ford was at least part owner of Bendix. On pre 70 cars there was a bracket that held the booster out from the firewall and raised it about 4-5". This was necessary for clearance. A bell crank was connected to the bracket and booster, the pushrod from the brake pedal connected to the bell crank. Ford used the same thing in 67 and earlier cars (maybe 68). The Ford parts work just fine, but you may have to make a new pushrod or get an adjustable one. The pushrod is nothing more than a flat bar with holes drilled in the ends so a bolt passes through it and the bell crank and brake pedal. As long as the master cylinder bore is correct (1" for Javelin and smaller AMCs) the Ford parts work fine. you may have to use an adapter or two for the brake lines, or better replace the brake lines from the MC to the junction block.

The only problem is the brake pedal itself. A manual pedal doesn't travel as much as a power pedal. When you convert to power brakes the manual pedal will go almost to the floor, maybe an inch from it. That can be alarming at first! When I converted my 63 I noticed that, but the brakes always worked fine. Still, I couldn't drive it that way! I measured a power pedal in a parts car and found out that the pedals were curved differently.  There are three ways to fix it: 1) get the power brake pedal from a parts car and swap, 2) weld a tab BEHIND the pedal, moving the point where the push rod attaches back about 3/4"-1", 3) alter the manual pedal. I chose the last one. I cut the pedal 3/4 of the way through from front to back about 1/4" below the push rod bolt hole with a hack saw. Then I bent the pedal forward enough to close the saw kerf (gap) and welded the pedal. This swung the foot end of the pedal arm forward about 3/4", bringing it up to where it was comfortably off the floor when pressed all the way down. The angle of the foot pedal changes slightly, but not uncomfortably. If you don't like it, make a cut just above the horizontal piece and closr that gap, than weld as you did the high cut. That takes the pedal back to the factory angle and only makes it about 1/8" closer to the floor. The upper cut moves the pedal so much due to the length below the cut.

Go to www.mpbrakes.com and order a booster/master for a 66-69 Ford Fairlane/Torino (http://www.mpbrakes.com/products/product-detail.cfm?product_id=154).  This raises the booster quite a bit -- the bolt holes for the master cylinder are about 4" higher than stock, and the top of the booster is about 4" higher than that. Stock 60s AMC are like that though. I know for sure it will fit the 61 American, and it should clear the AMX hood. A 69 Torino is about the same height. This is a 7" booster, so it's a bit shorter than the 8" or 9" AMC originally used (the 7" is dual diaphragm so it has enough boost).  You may have to drill new holes in the firewall or booster brackets, but other wise it's a bolt in (except for the brake lines mentioned above).

DO NOT tell MP Brakes it's for an AMC! Either tell them it's for the Ford or a customized car that uses the Ford parts. If you tell them it's for an AMC they will tell you they don't have any AMC parts. It's a liability issue on their part -- the parts aren't specified from the supplier to fit AMCs and they haven't test fit anything, so they can't tell you it's for an AMC and won't sell it if you tell them that's what it's for. When you tell them it's for a custom or hot rod it it implied that the system was custom made and responsibility lies with the builder, not the supplier. I know it's a fine line, but that's the way they want it! I talked with the owner a couple years ago, that's what he said we had to do due to possible liability issues on their part. If you stick it in something other than what they said it was for it's obviously your responsibility, not theirs. But that part works!


Edited by farna - May/16/2008 at 12:34pm

I'll do that! 

The single MC should work on the booster. MP Brakes also sells a single MC setup -- check the early Mustang listings. Again, tell them you want one for the Mustang or a hot rod -- not an AMC or Rambler. The MC bore still needs to be 1".

You can switch to the safer dual MC easily. All you need to do is plug the hole in the junction block that goes to the rear brakes, use the existing line from the MC to the junction block for the front brakes, and run a new line with a coupler to the rear brake portion of the dual MC. You will likely need to replace the line from the junction block to the front brake portion of the MC with a longer one. That will make the car a little safer -- if one wheel cylinder or brake line fails you still have half your brakes.