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Disc brake conversion |
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tomj
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7544 |
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you use the drum brake -- rambler -- hubs. there have been many threads here about how to do that. sometimes getting the drums off the hubs is difficult.
i just got the latest Scarebird AMC kit, and the instructions are flimsier than previous kits! doesn't state which flex lines to use. and it assumes you have the technical knowledge on how brakes work and how to overall handle the project and deal with the inevitable problems that crop up (eg. you find all your steel brake lines need replacing). |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676 |
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Remove the brake drums from the hubs you have now, or get hubs from Scarebird. They take an old disc rotor and turn the worn out rotor off the hub.
To remove the residual pressure valve get a sheet metal screw that will turn into the small hole in the center of the brake line outlet of the MC. Just needs to make 2-3 turns. Pull the screw with pliers -- the bronze seat will pull out. A spring and black plasti/rubber piece will come out from behind the seat. Then reinsert the seat. |
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Frank Swygert
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Gizmo456
AMC Apprentice Joined: Apr/15/2016 Location: Vancouver, CA Status: Offline Points: 155 |
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Will their "large" brake kit fit on my 1974 Gremlin? I have 15" rims. Do you also think it would be possible to fit different calipers and rotors to this kit?
I would really like to put a set of slotted and drilled rotors as well as a Willwood caliper... |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676 |
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You can use Willwood calipers and rotors. Or get the Ranger rotors drilled and slotted. You might be bale to find them that way already. The calipers are standard GM. I would think Willwood has one that will fit the GM mounting positions, but I don't know for sure. All you would be using from Scarebird is the hub and caliper bracket. Well, that's all they provide anyway (and some small hardware pieces like a seal adapter).
The Scarebird "big" brake kit will work with steel 15" wheels, I don't know about alloys. They vary in thickness. |
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Frank Swygert
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uncljohn
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/03/2013 Location: Peoria AZ Status: Offline Points: 5394 |
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Pretty much the above works quite well. I have the OEM disc brakes on my 70 Javelin with two sets of pads on the shelf. Along with a Spirit conversion. They have been sitting quite a while and can sit some more. |
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70 390 5spd Donohue
74 Hornet In restoration 76 Hornet, 5.7L Mercury Marine Power 80 Fuel Injected I6 Spirit 74 232 I-6, 4bbl, 270HL Isky Cam |
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Red Devil
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/10/2007 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 1743 |
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Simple way is to just order a Wilwood brake kit: Wilwood front kits ... but the stock KH discs with 11" x 1" wide rotors actually give more braking torque, with a pad upgrade, and expect as much if not more heat capacity than the 12.19" x 0.81" Wilwood kits ... but the Wilwoods look nice, save some weight, have more pad compound options and are likely to be available for many years. |
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cheynemitt
AMC Fan Joined: Aug/04/2014 Location: pembroke pines, Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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i installed the scarebird kit on my 1967 American. I cant get any brake pedal whatsoever. is it a must to put a adjustable bias valve in the rear line? if so, where do I get it and how do I install it
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1970390amx
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/11/2008 Location: colorado Status: Offline Points: 3314 |
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If your brake pedal goes to the floor and no pressure is developed you have air in the line a defective master or a huge leak. What did you use for a master cly? Did you bench bleed it thoroughly? Valves in the lines will only affect the way the pads apply, should not cause the pedal to go to the floor.
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1970 390 4speed Bittersweet shadow mask AMX
1970 Amx missing most everything, or in a box |
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maximus7001
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jun/27/2011 Location: Winnipeg,Canada Status: Offline Points: 1086 |
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Did your master go dry during the swap? If so you need to bench bleed it. I have a set of plastic "flare fittings" to cap the open lines/ports to keep the master wet. Really important with an old master.
Now what usually happens when bench bleeding a really old master the piston has to travel farther down the bore than it ever has before. That part of the bore is probably crusty and abrasive after all this time. See where this is going? Edited by maximus7001 - Dec/12/2016 at 5:28am |
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1968 Javelin SST
1997 GMC Safari AWD 2001 Daewoo Nubira SX (Winnipeg only model) 1997 Honda Accord EX (Canadian Model) Winnipeg, home of the Jets. |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676 |
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You don't have to have the bias valve in the rear line. If the rears don't easily lock before the fronts on a gravel or wet (not standing water, but well wet) road/parking lot from about 40-45 mph in a panic stop you're fine. Do check it before lots of driving though. If it brakes straight even if the wheels lock up (four wheels locking is fine... will slide straight) from about 40-45 mph then a really hard stop, you're fine without a bias valve. If the rear end wants to come around without input from the steering wheel you need a bias valve. Dial pressure down until it brakes straight on a slippery surface.
As noted, the brake change won't make the pedal hit the floor. Probably just air in lines. You can fill the MC then open all four bleeders, and leave it sitting over night. That's called "gravity bleeding". I'd check after a couple hours and make sure the MC is still full though. If it's half full after 2-4 hours you should be okay. Then fill and bleed as normal. Gravity bleeding will get most air out, but not all. |
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Frank Swygert
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