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rambler classic front suspension

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gatkins View Drop Down
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    Posted: Apr/14/2008 at 5:10pm
hi all, i've recently bought a 1962 Rambler classic and it's well overdue for some front suspension work. just wondering if anyone can put me in touch with a good parts supplier? I live in Auckland, New Zealand so i need to order it all online.

I'm basically looking for a full suspension rebuild kit. the brakes will need to be done as well but those parts can be sourced locally. The car is right hand drive but i don't think that makes any difference to part numbers??

also is there any thing i should look out for... special tools needed?

any help would be much appreciated.

thanks
glen atkins
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ramblinfsj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/15/2008 at 10:15am
www.ramblerparts.com , www.kennedyamerican.com , www.blaserauto.com , and www.americanpartsdepot.com will have what you need. They deal strictly with AMCs. Espo Springs & Things has the entire bushing set in a kit. All should be able to ship overseas I you can afford the shipping costs.
1982 Jeep J-20
1965 Rambler American 220
1978 Jeep Cherokee w/401
1983 Jeep J-10
1979 Concord DL 2dr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/15/2008 at 9:50pm
The only special item you will need is a hook for the coil springs. In case you've never worked with pre 70 Rambler coil springs, all 58-69 have "ears" on the spring seats with holes in them, two on each seat opposite each other (side to side and top to bottom). To compress the front left spring, jack the right rear up with a bumper jack. This throws a lot of the car's weight on the left front wheel, compressing that spring a lot. Then you put some hooks between the ears and left the jack down, then jack up the left front and remove the spring.

garryjav on here makes a set of hooks specifically for these cars. It's not hard to make a set, but his set is great. I have a set of his as well as some home made ones. The home made ones are a bit more dangerous to use, but as long as you treat the compressed springs like something just waiting to pop out and hurt you, they work fine. In either device the springs should be handled gingerly because there is several hundred pounds of force there.

The set I made barely compress the spring at all. Garry's compress less than the factory hooks do -- the factory hooks dangerously compress the spring by 50%! What I did was take a piece of 1/8" thick by 1/2" wide steel bar and bend a hook on the end in my vise. I bent 1/2" over about 130 degrees. I then measured the distance between the holes in the "ears" while the car was at rest (with engine and everything in it, no one in front seat though) and subtracted 1/4". I cut the bar so I could bend a hook on the other end at that measurement. No jacking is required to compress. Turn the wheels one way and have someone lean on the fender, then insert the hook. Turn wheels the other way and attach hook #2. Disconnect the shock at one end (you may want to do this before inserting the hooks). Jack up the front and remove the tire. Push down on the front suspension until it's gone as far as it can. You should then be able to CAREFULLY lift the spring out. As you jack you have to watch the spring. If it looks like it may or starts to bow any at all STOP!! It can pop out with enough force to break bones. The open hooks can't keep a bowed spring in. It should stay straight though. In that case carefully lift it out and set it out of the way where it won't get knocked over or dropped. I usually set it right under the front corner of the car and then let the jack down until the bottom of the car is about 1/4" above the spring or lightly resting on it (but not enough to release the hooks -- unless you're replacing the springs -- then the car makes a great way to safely remove the hooks from the old spring and put them on the new). Do only one side at a time! Don't handle the springs any more than necessary. You can get a couple long bolts and a pair of wider 2" long pieces of steel to run beside the hooks and through the spring for added safety, but I've never had one come out this way. Using the factory hooks the spring compresses so much that it almost always tries to bow out, but the factory hooks have side guards to keep it in.  I'd told Garry about this and he makes his hooks so that they compress less than the factory type, but more than the ones I described above.

I can't caution you enough about working with compressed springs! The hooks I described are potentially dangerous. I've done it that way several times with no problems, but handle the springs like I'm in the bomb squad and handling a potential explosive. That's about what it is. Use at your own risk!!
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gatkins Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/16/2008 at 6:07am
thanks, i've taken a look underneath it tonight, front joints etc don't look as bad as i thought. front springs are the main problem.... the car has been lowered serverly. i have the original rear springs that can be fitted again but the front ones appear to have been modified, don't look to have been cut, just compressed right down.

can anyone tell me if the 62 springs will match any later ramblers? would Rebel springs fit?

thanks
glen.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/16/2008 at 11:13am
No, the springs won't interchange with later models. Any automotive coil spring maker should be able to wind you a set. I advise getting a set made that is 10-15% stiffer than stock at the same rate (in other words, at the factory HD rate). www.coilsprings.com can make them and ship, not sure about shipping costs. If there is a custom coil spring place over there in Oz, I can get you the stock spring specs.  Coil Spring Specialties (coilsprings.com) only make a variable rate spring, but calculate the rates from the originals. I've used them in my cars and they are great! The firmer setting isn't apparent at low speeds, but the spring gets firmer as its compressed. This keeps ride good and improves handling tremendously. I bet your front springs were torched to collapse them, always a bad idea!!
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gatkins Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/16/2008 at 4:04pm
yeah, looks like they've been torched. The stock spring specs would be great, if it's not too much trouble. There are spring makers locally i can use.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gatkins Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/20/2008 at 4:00pm
can anyone tall me if a set of springs for from a 64 classic will fit into a 62 classic? Someone is selling a full set locally which could solve a bunch of my suspension problems but they're out of a 64.

cheers
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/21/2008 at 9:14pm
The 64 Classic spring rates are different, and the body design uses a shorter, larger diameter spring. You'll need to get 58-62 Classic springs -- the Ambassador used a much heavier V-8 and those springs would be too stiff.  I recommend the HD springs even if you don't have AC. Cars were spring pretty soft back then due to rougher and slower roads. With HD springs the car will handle MUCH better and the ride will only be slightly stiffer. You won't even notice the difference on a smooth road. You WILL notice the better handling, especially in a turn. The high mounted spring increases roll resistance, that's one reason those cars didn't use a sway bar except with a V-8, and the V-8 bars are small.

1962 Classic spring specs:

Aluminum six, light spring w/o AC - 0.515" wire, loaded height 8-3/8"@865 lbs. left, 8-3/8"@835 lbs. right, both  98 lbs./inch after loaded weight.

Aluminum six, heavy-duty spring w/AC - 0.515" wire, loaded height 8-3/8"@895 lbs. left, 8-3/8"@865 lbs. right, both  98 lbs./inch after loaded weight.

Cast iron six, light spring w/o AC - 0.515" wire, loaded height 8-3/8"@895 lbs. left, 8-3/8"@865 lbs. right, both  98 lbs./inch after loaded weight.

Cast iron six, heavy-duty spring w/AC - 0.545" wire left, 0.515" wire right, loaded height 8-3/8"@930 lbs. left, 8-3/8"@895 lbs. right, left 110 lbs./inch, right  98 lbs./inch after loaded weight.


Edited by farna - Apr/21/2008 at 9:16pm
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1967AmericanSW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/21/2008 at 9:36pm
Originally posted by farna farna wrote:


The 64 Classic spring rates are different, and the body design uses a shorter, larger diameter spring. You'll need to get 58-62 Classic springs -- the Ambassador used a much heavier V-8 and those springs would be too stiff.  I recommend the HD springs even if you don't have AC. Cars were spring pretty soft back then due to rougher and slower roads. With HD springs the car will handle MUCH better and the ride will only be slightly stiffer. You won't even notice the difference on a smooth road. You WILL notice the better handling, especially in a turn. The high mounted spring increases roll resistance, that's one reason those cars didn't use a sway bar except with a V-8, and the V-8 bars are small. 1962 Classic spring specs:Aluminum six, light spring w/o AC - 0.515" wire, loaded height 8-3/8"@865 lbs. left, 8-3/8"@835 lbs. right, both  98 lbs./inch after loaded weight.Aluminum six, heavy-duty spring w/AC - 0.515" wire, loaded height
8-3/8"@895 lbs. left, 8-3/8"@865 lbs. right, both  98 lbs./inch after
loaded weight.Cast iron six, light spring w/o AC - 0.515" wire, loaded height
8-3/8"@895 lbs. left, 8-3/8"@865 lbs. right, both  98 lbs./inch after
loaded weight.Cast iron six, heavy-duty spring w/AC - 0.545" wire left, 0.515" wire right, loaded height
8-3/8"@930 lbs. left, 8-3/8"@895 lbs. right, left 110 lbs./inch, right  98 lbs./inch after
loaded weight.


For Gaskins car; the 'left and 'right' springs should be swapped side to side due to his Classic being RHD.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gatkins Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/22/2008 at 4:35am
thanks for your help everyone.
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