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No Spark, '84 258

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Poopy Fishwater View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Poopy Fishwater Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: No Spark, '84 258
    Posted: Jun/20/2012 at 10:19pm
Who Knew that an '84 CJ has both an ignition module (Driver's Fender) and an ECM (Under the dash)? Here is the scenerio:

It ran. Not well, but it started and drove. Then...it sat for about 6 months. Now, after a new coil, and a new pick up in the distributor, it still gets no spark to the plugs. I'm sure its something simple, but what am i overlooking?  Is there a bench test for these modules?
 
Missing something simple beers,

Poopy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BeerBuzz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/21/2012 at 7:34am
Do you have voltage to the coil? Rats really like to eat early 80's wiring for some reason.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Poopy Fishwater Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/21/2012 at 7:39am
I do have voltage to the coil. Somehow, its not getting thru the distributor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amchornet1970 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/21/2012 at 7:49pm
my best guess would be the ignition mod. but dont know of any tests
Joe
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Toy Maker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/22/2012 at 6:07am

Check for one (1) spark when you stop cranking the engine from the coil. It will only be only one and only exactly as you stop cranking. If you have this one spark, the module is alright and you probably have a blown fuse. Check all the fuses anyway. Check all the wiring for damage as mentioned. The offending fuse also operates the choke as I recall and the wires are prone to melting on the exhaust manifold.

Also, check for a good ground (clean it anyway) on the passenger side of the block about three quarters of the way back where there are black wires coming from the wiring harness to a bolt in the side of the block or the stud retaining the dipstick tube bracket. There should be only one eyelet with wires attached to the block with another taped back to the harness visable unless you operate at high altitude, then both are connected. This is the computer ground and is prone to poor connection. Can cause no start or rough running.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/22/2012 at 7:00am
Looks like you have some good tips here!
The spark as you stop cranking is because the starter relay, (often called solenoid as it sort of is) supplies full battery voltage to the ignition system during cranking to compensate for the lowered voltage caused by starter draw. When you let up on the key, the plunger retracts, and breaks that connection, meaning there's a fast drop in the voltage to the ignition system, usually causing a spark from the coil. It won't necessarily line up with a particular plug, so you need to check it from the coil wire, not a plug wire.

I hate to say it, but I've replaced countless ignition control boxes over the years, for 1, my own 1984 258, and as a mechanic, many others prior to that. We had to keep them in stock at all times - Fords and AMCs with that system often lost the box. At times it was only when hot, we'd cool the control module/box and it would start and run. It would get hot and die again, and some had to be towed in off of I80 - died on the Interstate.

I don't have my Motorcraft stuff handy, so can't give any other tests at this time......
I also tend to think the ignition control module on the fender...... but don't spend the bucks based just on that hunch........
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Poopy Fishwater Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/22/2012 at 7:43am
Thanks for the good ideas.  So far, I have replaced the coil, and the pick-up in the distributor.  I have addressed the ground that is by the dipstick.  Yesterday, I bought an ignition module ($27) and will likely be installing that this evening.   I am very tempted to bypass the ECM (Nutter Bypass) so that I can simplify the system.  It seems like a common sense thing to do and an easy way to save some $$ and trouble.  Do you guys have an opinion on doing the Nutter Bypass?
Thanks again for the help.
 
-Poopy
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FuzzFace2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/22/2012 at 9:45am
My son did the by pass on his YJ along with using an aftermarket module mounted in a small box that he bought. It is wired up so if something should happen with the after market module he can plug in the stock one. The by pass is in place for both modules and IIRC him telling me the ECM also retards the timing so he had to play with that but I did not pay much to what he was saying Confused
Most of his info came from 1 of the Jeep sites. Next project is using S10 springs to add lift.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Poopy Fishwater Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/22/2012 at 6:50pm
IT LIVES!!!   Turns out it was the ignition module.. But I'm still pleased that I put a new coil and distributor pick-up in it.  Damn...now I'm giong to want to keep it.  One step closer to putting it on the sale block to finance the '65 Rambler Ragtop!  Yes, I'm fickle. 
I may still do the bypass later. Especially after I see how it behaves at road RPM's.
 
Thanks everyone, for your input.
 
Feeling Good Beers,
 
Poopy
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