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Jeep T5

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7Xpacemaker View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 7Xpacemaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Jeep T5
    Posted: Jul/24/2009 at 10:50am
 I found a jeep T5 at a good price. From what I can tell, The Jeep T5 has very similiar ratios as my SR4. My question is: What tailshaft can I use to bolt this into my car? Thanks in advance....
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Wrambler View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wrambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/24/2009 at 1:24pm
NONE!   Won't work with any stock pieces though if you have the gumption you probably could have something made.  Not worth it though. Shifter is all wrong, trans is to short.
  Get a Mustang T-5 and use it for the swap, much easier and usually a stronger trans too!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1970390amx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/25/2009 at 12:41am
cant say how it will all work yet but I have a t-5 out of an eagle that I dissasembled and reassembled with a camaro output shaft and tailhousing. In a camaro the tranny is twisted a few degrees to move the shifter closer to the driver,I am working on doing the same thing. no enginr in the car right now so its going slow. 
1970 390 4speed Bittersweet shadow mask AMX
1970 Amx missing most everything, or in a box
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JavMD View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JavMD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/25/2009 at 4:30pm
I did the mustang T5 (1988) into a 79 AMX (removing the SR4) (too weak cannot take the continuing torque of a 304) plus you get the 5th gear and a cool 1st gear ratio.
 
I used the T5 stock the way it is and had to have the driveshaft shorten 3/4 inch.  but wow, there is very little angle to the differential with the low squat AMX.
 
My problem is the new clutch disc (and pressure plate) is slipping with the 4 bbl 304.   Drive slow to medium and the clutch will hold,  try to 'nail' it and clutch slips till it slowly 'grabs'.   But this will not WORK, since I hope to have fun racing it on the 2 mile paved race track at Nelson Ledges (open to the public most Fridays)
 
ANY HINTS or clues????
BDR
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FuzzFace2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/27/2009 at 10:01am

 I am with the rest go with a T5. I am doing a ford WC T5 into a street Javlin but will not be done for a long time as rest of car is not ready for it yet.

 

JavMD what clutch assy. you running? What is the application for and who makes it center force, zoom, etc.? It sounds like you may not have enough free play or weak PP.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JavMD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/27/2009 at 7:24pm
Thanks ! I don't understand 'enough free play',  i used a normal diagraphm pressure plate for a regular 304 (CJ7),  the car runs good if you don't 'jump' on it.   But I need quick acceleration for Nelson Ledges 2 mile paved road course.
 
The diaphram type is not enough.  Read the 'Hays Clutch' web site tech section.   regular BB is called for on AMCs.   I have ordered a regular BB at Autozone since the world CAN'T supply a good name BB for weeks !  A Hays BB is good to 2400 static pressure but the normal diaphragm pressure plate is only 1500 !   I have emailed Autozone asking what their name brand BB pressure plate is good to !   It better be more than 1500.   I need just a little bit more since it just bearly slips.
 
i got a regular  BB throw out bearing also.    I have a 4bbl carb on an existing intake 304 that came with the car.  previous 2 owners ago, someone put on a two barrel adapter on a four barrel intake.  i removed it and put on a brand new Edelbrock !   The engine screams but the clutch will slip.  It sets up nice with a T5 !   I think its even twisting the frame car body since now the hatchback lid when it closes is now totally off hitting as it closes.  I'll have to re-adjust it.
 
with the dis-engage clutch lever and a big throw out bearing, there is bearly any 'free play to totally release it,  but i think the existing pressure plate is too weak.  We'll find out Thursday when i swap in a BB !  Thanks every one... any input is appreciated !
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FuzzFace2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/27/2009 at 9:58pm

I am looking to run diagraphm pressure plate for a Jeep also but looking at Center Force DF setup.  Here are the numbers I have for it.

Center Force Clutch 76-79  304cid

 

Pressure Plate I: CF361675

Pressure Plate II: CFT361675

Disc: 384180

Duel Friction Kit: DF180675

Size: 10.4 X 1 1/16-10

TO Bearing: N1439

Align Tool: 52010

 

Some one (well known) said they don’t like the CF because of the way it is balance and a regular diaphragm type is the way to go? He is the only one I have heard that had issues so the CF DF is what I will go with.

Link to Jeep page http://centerforce.com/clutches.tpl?cart=1248752340612339&subsection=clutchselector&searchStr=csearchStr3&cstep1=step1&cstep2=step2&cstep3=step3&carmake=JEEP&carmodel=CJ%2C%20DJ%2C%20TJ%20%26%20YJ%2C%20CHEROKEE%2C%20COMANCHE%2C%20DISPATCHER%2C%20SPORT%20WAGON%2C%20WAGONEER%2C%20WRANGLER&caryear=1978

Dave ----

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wrambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/27/2009 at 10:17pm
I have a reman BB that is 10.9" in mine and it does not ever slip, ever.

You do want to be careful putting to much power into a T5 in fifth gear anyway. fifth is only supported on one side and will go out if driven to hard with to much power. 5speeds.com offers a support that is supposed to help.

  I have heard CF DF discs have given some people trouble with slippage, but I have zero first hand knowledge with the brand.  I will say the one diaphram pp I used years ago did slip and fail in short time... YMMV.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JavMD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/28/2009 at 7:18am

Thanks for the info, i appreciate it.    Its real easy what decision to make.  Visit Hays Clutch and see the data on static pressure a diagrpham has versus a Borg Beck.   Borg Beck has so much more.   Its the slippage I experience in first and second when I try a wide open throttle application that keeps me on the sidelines or more appropriate .. the pit area.  I need the quick acceleration out of the turns (at nelson ledges 2 mile paved road race track) that I need .. NO SLIPPAGE ! thanks

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FuzzFace2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/28/2009 at 8:46am

The thing with the BB type is the higher the grip the more your leg has to push. Around here with stop & go traffic and wanting to drive the car I was not looking at building up my left leg muscle. I tried to find what the PSI  holding force is of the CF DF but could not find it, also because of the weights it goes up as rpm goes up so?

 

I am rebuilding my WC T5 and bought all the goodies to make it stronger like the support you are talking about. http://www.thegearbox.org/catalog/item/3819132/4723740.htm

Link to T5 rebuild parts http://www.thegearbox.org/T5.html

 

Keep as posted on what you come up with and we need pictures of your outing!

Dave ----

TSM = Technical Service Manual

75 Gremlin X v8 for sale
70 Javelin 360/auto drag car
70 Javelin 360/T5 Street car
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