Brake drums.

Be sure to check center and stud holes for correct Diameter if possible.

I think most rear 10" drums are dimensioned as 10 x 1.75, and front 10" are usually 10 x 2.5". I don't think fronts were ever 1.75" wide, but don't take my word for it, research it. 

I just did a front disc conversion on a 68 jav. and scraped the drums. they were good but i thought who wants drums ... anyway when it was a drum front i do know that when i put 1" spacers on front and 2" spacers on rear , the hub bore had to be different as the 4 i bought ( spacers ) had same bore and the front ones would not work / fit over the beveled lip on the front drums that was not there on the rear drums.. So that is different on a 68 jav. drums !

i do sir ... 1 inch on the front and 2 inch on the back with foose knuckle wheels . Id like to put 2" on front to really improve the look but not possible with out a major rework of lower fender wells front and back of the wheel wells . The struts have to be just right ( caster ) to keep them from rubbing on turns . In fact a small rework has to be done to keep them from rubbing in reverse on a rt turn in reverse but with ( i forget the offset of the wheel ) and 245/45/17 fronts and 265/40/17 rears it works, was tuff getting it there as many times i had to reset the struts but found a sweet spot. Did have to curl in the inner flange of the fender at back bottom but the rocker alum trim covers that and trim down that bracket in front of fender that stabilizes the the front of the front fender in wheel well . Plus the strut bushing have to be changed to the hard prothane bushing so there is no movement of strut for and aft which even with the prothane grease u get cold bushing squeak for about 15min or so till they warm up then no squeak ! to me its worth it for the wide stance you get when done . 2" which i had on it to see what it look like was BAD Ash ! but could not work it out with out cutting . I regrease and check my wheel bearings alot and check the torques on the spacers alot also . and grease the ball joints ever chance i get . No want to brake a spacer , NOT a good thing to happen !! 

of course with 10.4 inch wide rear tires and out to the fender well ends i would come down on the tire under hard bumps , Sooo i had to take off the shackle brackets to the frame and leaf and using steel bar stock same width and thick cut 1 1/4" longer brackets giving me a 3/4 higher stance in back . i also , cuz i tow a 175cc dirt bike with car , installed the little gray helper springs u can get from O'reileys auto parts about 2 foot or less long . the ones that have 2 rivits for adj loads . No rivit gives 500 lb assist the small rivit gives 1000lb assist and the big rivit gives 1500 lb assit. I used no rivit . installed a 2" custom box hitch to tow the bike . This too put some curve back into my leaf springs and another 1/2 lift . Went from one finger clearance , top tire to fender to 3 1/2 finger clearance . And just so you know .. I broke a shock once . I has KYBs on the car but one broke at the bottom attacking point. i replaced with Monrow HD . Come to find out that the Monrow's "  bout 3/4 or so longer and lets the suspension do full travel , thats why the rit side KYB broke . was short on travel . There you have it !!  lol