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727 Transmission Pan Torque Spec

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MacGyver View Drop Down
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    Posted: Aug/01/2021 at 12:14pm
My '72 TSM lists this spec as 150 in/lbs.
Can anyone confirm this???  Seems REALLY high to me!!
 
For comparison sake, I looked up the specs for engine oil pan and rocker covers...
 
Rocker cover:  45-55 in/lbs
Oil Pan:  5-8 ft/lbs  (60-96 in/lbs)
 
I gave up on trying to get my original trans pan to seal, and broke down and bought a brand new one!
Really don't want to distort the new pan and end up right back where I started!! Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel Machine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/01/2021 at 1:17pm
Originally posted by MacGyver MacGyver wrote:

My '72 TSM lists this spec as 150 in/lbs.
Can anyone confirm this???  Seems REALLY high to me!!
 
For comparison sake, I looked up the specs for engine oil pan and rocker covers...
 
Rocker cover:  45-55 in/lbs
Oil Pan:  5-8 ft/lbs  (60-96 in/lbs)
 
I gave up on trying to get my original trans pan to seal, and broke down and bought a brand new one!
Really don't want to distort the new pan and end up right back where I started!! Wink



If it were 150 ft/lbs that would be crazy high.

Since an inch is 1/12th of a foot, so is in/lbs and ft/lbs.


150/12 = 12.5 ft/lbs.

Most torque wrenches that are measuring in ft/lbs won't go that low.

When I seal up a pan or valve cover I usually put a thin (but not too thin) coat of RTV on the top and bottom of the gasket, install, then tighten the bolts to where the RTV barely starts to squeeze out. I'll let it sit a day to cure then go back and torque them in place with thread locker on the bolts.

-Steve-



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/01/2021 at 3:47pm
With a stock cork gasket that seems really high.  I do something like Steve does, I put a thin bead of RTV on both sides of the gasket and then smear it with my fingers (yeah, it's messy) to a thin film.  Then I put the gasket on a perfectly dry pan and mount the pan to a perfectly dry case with bolts that have red loctite on them.  I run the bolts down until they are snug with a 3/8 speed handle and call it good.  Haven't had any weepage or drippage since I started doing this.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CamJam Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/01/2021 at 6:43pm
Sounds about right to me. I returned my Chrysler Aspen to the transmission shop THREE times trying to get them to fix a pan leak after a recent rebuild.  Finally decided to buy a new Dorman pan and fixed it myself on the first try. That's about what the torque spec was for the Aspen and it worked. I used a rubber gasket and no sealant.

EDIT: Just double checked the spec for my Aspen with the 545RFE and it's 105 in. lbs. My torque wrenches don't work well at that low a setting so I'm not sure how accurate I was. It didn't feel much more than finger tight to me.


Edited by CamJam - Aug/01/2021 at 6:58pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rockAMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/03/2021 at 3:07pm
Right Stuff sealant. 100 inch-pounds is typical. As mentioned by others. apply sealant and gasket, finger tighten and leave for a few hours, then torque.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MacGyver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/03/2021 at 9:51pm
Thanks for the replies, guys!!
 
I'm always a bit leery about using any kind of RTV on the transmission pan...
I've heard that ATF can dissolve RTV over time, and although I've done it before, and it sealed for a few years, I can't help but think of little bits of gooey RTV floating around in my transmission!! Confused
 
I thought about using The Right Stuff, but the thought of having to use a hammer and chisel to get the pan back off for the next filter change, didn't really appeal to me!!  LOL
 
So...   Giving the brand new pan the benefit of the doubt on being straight and true, I opted to install it with the gasket dry and NOT over torque it!!
That's the way the factory did it, right??  That seemed to work for a really long time!!
 
I questioned the torque value, because I've become quite intimate with torqueing down the rocker cover on my Spirit to 30 in/lbs....
That's what the spec says, (28 in/lbs actually), and I've found that any more, it leaks!
Any less, it leaks!!
I've gone almost a year now with a leak free 258 rocker cover!! 
Might seem silly, but I'd tried every gasket on the market for years!! With or without sealant, and the only thing that worked was a plain dry cork gasket torqued to factory spec!!
 
Because this new aftermarket trans pan seems to be a bit thinner gauge steel than the original pan, I really didn't want to over torque it...
 
150 in/lbs seems insanely high to me after messing with the 30 in/lbs on the 258....
100 in/lbs, sounds better....  But still feels too high...
 
In the end, after looking at the torque values I posted earlier for the oil pan and rocker covers, and taking into account the thinner gauge stamping, I decided to go easy and torqued the pan to 55 in/lbs...
 
No drips so far!!!   That very likely might change, but for now, I'm quite happy not having to keep a drip pan under the car!!   Big smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/04/2021 at 12:15am
New chemicals are incomparably better than old "silicones". Look at brand name Permatex stuff. YOu can put an entire engine together with no gaskets except head and oil pump (sets clearance). Modern engines are assembled that way.

None of these are "silicones" the way that old crap was (or is, if you buy cheap).

Generally speaking, buy the best quality chemicals you can afford. Absolutely never buy that stuff by price. 

RIght Stuff as rockAMX says. It's a gasket maker. 

Ultra Black is a general purpose gasket maker and sealant, I use it where I would use silicone; adhesive, sealant, some gaskets, some rubber/plastic repair, mounting electronic components, metal adhesive.

Ultra Gray likewise, but it's HARD and STRONG. Flexible but stiff. I use this most often. Worked great as 195.6 OHV oil pump body to block (external pump).

There's a green one specifically for gear oil. Transmissions, your oil pan, diff covers.

There is a new one, not tried yet but I sure will! Liquid gasoline proof! That application has been off-limits since forever. New gasoline especially is nasty stuff to seal. This I'm sure works as advertised.

Permatex stuff is GREAT. Ultra Gray is $9 where hardware store silicone is $5. Buy the good stuff.  You really ought to try it. The old days are long gone, good riddance.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FSJunkie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/04/2021 at 2:27am
If the pan is flat...as in nobody has ever over-torqued and warped it...a dry fit of a cork gasket and torqued to 150 inch-pounds creates a leak-free seal.

I only break out the sealants when there is warp that I cannot straighten. 
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