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‘66 Rambler classic 232 opinion needed

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Itschrisb View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Itschrisb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: ‘66 Rambler classic 232 opinion needed
    Posted: Jun/17/2021 at 1:37pm
Originally posted by 73Gremlin401 73Gremlin401 wrote:

Originally posted by Itschrisb Itschrisb wrote:

When the engine isn’t fully warmed up the idle oil pressure is 10-12psi and cruising pressure is 45-50psi. Sitting in traffic still on a hot day like today and the engine a little on the hot side the idle pressure drops down to 5ish. Now these readings are in gear. If in park or neutral the pressure is between 5-10psi. 


Personally, I'd be thrilled with 45-50 psi at cruise. That's almost above normal for these old, understressed motors. Keep in mind it only takes about 3-5 psi to float the bearings, so you're still safe, even at idle/in gear. With regard to the psi drop with the car in gear at idle, this is to be expected, and also, might be a good idea to make sure that your in-gear idle speed is set to spec. If the idle speed is too low, pressure is going to drop right along with it.  IMHO, I think you are way overthinking/over-worrying about this. It takes a act of congress to kill these motors.

You know I have to agree with you. After researching the topic to death I’ve concluded that I believe the engine is more than okay. It may be tired or sludged up but I’m really not convinced it’s anything to justify replacing or tearing down and rebuilding right now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 73Gremlin401 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/17/2021 at 12:00pm
Originally posted by Itschrisb Itschrisb wrote:

When the engine isn’t fully warmed up the idle oil pressure is 10-12psi and cruising pressure is 45-50psi. Sitting in traffic still on a hot day like today and the engine a little on the hot side the idle pressure drops down to 5ish. Now these readings are in gear. If in park or neutral the pressure is between 5-10psi. 


Personally, I'd be thrilled with 45-50 psi at cruise. That's almost above normal for these old, understressed motors. Keep in mind it only takes about 3-5 psi to float the bearings, so you're still safe, even at idle/in gear. With regard to the psi drop with the car in gear at idle, this is to be expected, and also, might be a good idea to make sure that your in-gear idle speed is set to spec. If the idle speed is too low, pressure is going to drop right along with it.  IMHO, I think you are way overthinking/over-worrying about this. It takes a act of congress to kill these motors.
73 Gremlin 401/5-spd.
77 Matador Wagon 360/727.
81 Jeep J10 LWB 360/4-spd
83 Concord DL 4-dr 258/auto

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WARBED Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/17/2021 at 10:14am
Hey Farna. This is in a way the same concern with the AMC v8. but more to do with the cam bearings blocking the line from the lifter gallery to the mains.

59 American 2dr S/W. 70 390 AMX. 70 232 javelin. Kelvinator fridge ice cold beer storage.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Softbuster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/16/2021 at 8:48pm
Is your car an automatic or a manual transmission?
A manual trans car could easily be converted to the 4.0 from a late 80s early 90s Jeep.
Use an adapter and run a 2bbl carb until you have time to sort out the fuel injection.
Just an idea..

I've been running 15W40 Diesel oil in my older engines, all the automotive oils are designed for
modern engines with roller valvetrain so the additives are not there for the harshness of the engine.
Once in a while Walmart has a special on a 3 gallon jug of diesel oil, comes out to like $10 per gallon.
85 Eagle sedan rescue project
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/16/2021 at 6:23am
If I were just doing something in the bottom end I'd support the engine and drop the crossmember. The only catch is the wheels need to be on the ground or the upper arms blocked so the y don't come down. Last time I did something like that I ran the car up on ramps and left the wheels down, but still had jack stands under the front so only partial weight was on the wheels. Limits movement under the car some, but works if you're on a cement floor with a creeper.

Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Itschrisb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/13/2021 at 11:44am
I do have access to a donor engine still for pretty cheap. I’m still weighing that option. I’m not opposed to rebuilding the current engine either. 

Although a silly mindset I feel if I were to pull the engine I’d rather upgrade than put the same engine back in. I’d love to ultimately put a V8 in the place of the 232. I’m honestly not sure what route I want to go which is why I’m trying to do everything I can to not dig into this current engine just yet. I do have a new oil pump and pickup to put on it. 

How difficult is it to pull the pan with the engine still in the car or is it just easier to pull the engine instead of trying to drop the subframe? I’ve pulled engines and have dropped subframes before so neither option is unfamiliar territory.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vinny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/11/2021 at 8:31am
You said you have access to a donor engine, that might be the easiest route. 

BTW Northern auto parts show a high volume pump if you want to play with yours.

I've taken two of these engines apart, one with only about 70k miles. There wasn't much for cylinder wear on that one but the other I had to use a ridge reamer to get the pistons out. I suspect you will have to do the same at overhaul if yours has 146k miles.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/11/2021 at 6:29am
You can pull the oil pan and check the main and rod bearings without too much trouble. If they are worn you could replace with same size bearings (probably standard, but might not be... AMC would put 0.010" under/over bearings in from factory).  That will buy you some time and should improve oil pressure. but due to wear on the crank they won't last as long as originals. Should still get you 20-30K miles -- assuming everything else is up to that mileage. Rings or something else may wear out before then...  Still, if you're up to taking the time to do it, it's not that costly. Bearings aren't expensive, and the only other thing you need is an oil pan gasket. Is a good day's work though, and the mains can be hard to change. I've heard of people just changing the bottom bearing (easy to change) and getting a slightly improvement, but that was way back in the 40s and 50s. I don't like the uneven bearing surface that would make -- couldn't last long, I'd think!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Itschrisb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/11/2021 at 5:32am
Fair enough! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/10/2021 at 11:51pm
The top-end oiling fix (the bolt) is a good idea, but will not help oil pressure. If low oil pressure is indeed simply extended wear on an old engine, there is no "fix", the low pressure is probably a combination of low volume from a worn pump, and pressure loss from bearing clearance, worn lifters, etc. 

Keep in mind the more you increase wear, more parts will need replacement, and if you run the crank journals dry (hot weather, low speeds, thin oil film) scuffed crank will need more metal removed. As Igonr said in another thread, the choice is that you can fix it on your schedule, or the part's schedule...,

Well kept from here on out will get you more life out of it, but there's only one fix, past some point, probably well passed.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
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