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"1958 Rambler Super" mission fix it and drive it.

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1958 rambler super View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/11/2021 at 9:25pm
Soooo, if I followed the instructions in the tsm like you can see, what did I do wrong? The yellow wire is the "jumper lead" the tsm advised a jumper wire (ust piece of wire) to polarize the generator, so that yellow wire isn't supposed to do anything but polarize the volt regulator, so it's not supposed to go anywhere.

Edited by 1958 rambler super - Jul/13/2021 at 1:49am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote troutwilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/11/2021 at 10:38pm
I also just watched the video and see your also learning to weld.  Just kidding.

I did a Google search on polarizing the generator and it was confusing because one said to do like you did, but several others said to connect the Batt terminal and the Armature terminal. I would do some searching and reading for yourself.

You could have kept the battery connected and done the other tests.  I now see that there's no way it will accidentally start.  Try the headlights, dome lights, and brake lights just for fun, but to get it to run you need to ensure you get 9 to 12 volts at the coil in both the "start" and "run" key position.  So connect the MM as suggested, turn the key and read the voltage at both key positions.  You said in the video that there was a blue and green wire to the starter so I'm gonna say it'll work.

Oh, make sure you have a ground wire from the engine to the frame/chassis.  That will complete the circuit for the lights and such.

And also in the video, when you showed in the vehicle under the passenger side of the dash, is that the blue wire that connects to the ignition switch that's hanging down?  If so, cut the exposed wire off, and tape / seal /  or shrink wrap the end so it can't short to anything.  I don't have your wiring diagram but I'm gonna guess it goes to the heater blower.


Edited by troutwilly - Jul/11/2021 at 10:40pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 58Ramblr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/12/2021 at 3:08am
What you did wrong was trying to touch it to the voltage regulator with power going to the car. Take the negative battery cable off, hook up that wire like it’s supposed to be hooked up, then put the battery cable back once youre done 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/13/2021 at 1:56am
Ok, hi trout willy,  yes next time Ill do that headlights test and ect, I'll take another looks and see if the blower motor is accessable to see if the blue wire has popped out of its place, that's the best idea and explanation for it so far, and yes I also did some research on polarizing volt regulators this morning and also found conflicting advice... it think it's because there are different types of volt regulators around....the tsm I have for my car should have the exact method appropriate for the volt regulator I have, unless it's different from previous owners changing it......and ramblr58, so I should disconnect the negative battery cable going to the ground on the cyl head then touch the wire to those terminals again then put the neg battery cable back on, and that's it? Darnit I wish the tsm would have given me that hint!!! The tsm doesn't say that at all.

Edited by 1958 rambler super - Jul/13/2021 at 1:58am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote troutwilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/13/2021 at 9:08am
I'd leave that polarizing thing alone for now.  You followed the directions, got a little (actually a lot) more spark than expected, so I'd say its done.  Besides, you don't want sparks like that near the battery...that's when they go kaboom.

I'd hook the battery back up.  Test the voltage at the coil in "run" and "start."  And if successful, put the rest of the engine back together and get it running.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/13/2021 at 11:47pm
So if I disconnected the battery and took it out of the rambler completely, I would not need to do the polarizing operation again? It says in the tsm when ever the leads are disconnected to do the polarizing before it's strted up again. 
Ive asked about it on the electrical thread I have but no one has given me specific advice about it so I feel alittle uncertain about it.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote troutwilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/14/2021 at 10:03am
I'd say its polarized, but I've never done anything like that before. Once you get the engine running you can check to see if its charging and go from there.

As for the battery, leave it in the car.  No point in hoisting it in and out of the car all the time.  Just disconnect one of the cables from it when you don't need the power.  Your neg cable looks to be the easiest.  And you can cover the battery with a towel or something when your working around it to make sure you don't drop a tool across the posts.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 58Ramblr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/14/2021 at 6:25pm
Generators need to be polarized after sitting for a while, and no, they don’t need to be re polarized after removing the battery. I’d make sure you actually need to do it first. My rambler that has been sitting for over 50 years somehow did not need to be polarized. The minute I put the fan to generator belt on and started the car. I disconnnected the battery from the car and it kept running, that’s because generators make enough power to keep itself running 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/15/2021 at 7:41pm
WHOA! ok holy smokes, disconnecting the battery thing is pretty cool. I'll copy paste my electric update here...

Ok, the dimmer switch nob totally sounded crusty, so next time I'll try and turn it to brush off the corrosion like and hope that helps... ok,  the tail lights didn't work when I pressed the brake pedal when the key was in the "run" position, the headlights still didn't work, I took the MM and tested with the neg lead on a grounded spot and positive lead at all three posts of the small junction block near the headlights, and the only time a reaction with the MM was witnessed was when the positive lead contacted the middle post (middle of three posts, also, the MM was set for 12v and the tests were done with the headlights activated) and the needle in the MM went to the other end of the dial. Then i took the driver's side headlights out of their sockets, and put the only headlight that worked from the passenger side of the car Into the socket of the driver's side headlight socket and it worked! So this shows that the wiring is not the problem, then i thought maybe the reason the inner headlight won't work is because maybe the outer side has to complete a circuit first(?) For the inner headlight to work, so I switched it, and plugged it into the outer driver's side headlight socket and plugged one of the new headlights into the inner socket, and tested it, and it still didn't work..... So.... Maybe the new headlights, which are different because they are halogen and only have two metal pieces that plug into the connector won't work with the old connectors...
 But that doesn't fully explain why they don't get power because the inner socket ALSO  has only two plug holes.... I'll explain that more... The headlights are two sets of two, one outer headlight and one inner headlight for each passenger and driver's side of the rambler, but the headlight connector on the outer side has a three plug hole interface, but the inner headlight connectors only has two plug holes... So I don't get it.
I looked and saw the new headlight brass metal things that plug into the connector DO have marks on them from fully inserting Into the connector, so it's connecting.
The top post of the junction block in focus here at this time has three wires total, two wires leading to headlights on both sides of the rambler, and a wire leading back into the rambler to the high beam indicator, the middle post has wires leading to those headlights as well and also a wire leading away back into the car to the headlight switch, the bottom post has wires leading to each turn signal and also has a wire leading back into the rambler to the "p" on the wiring diagram at the light switch and circuit breaker. 
BUT the only post that had a reaction on the ohm test was the middle post, even though both turn signal lights worked and the other side of the headlights worked after I plugged in the old headlight.
Also, following troutwillys direction, i did a ohm test at the positive terminal of the coil and put the neg lead to a ground, turned the key to the "run" position and the MM went all the way over to the other end of the dial, then, I turned the key all the way, just for a small moment to the start position to see if the starter would activate AND IT DID! it was very exciting! This also measured the same amount of volts on the MM.
After that I reset TDC and five degrees BTDC and disconnected the battery and called it a night as it was dark.
Also, when I turned the key to the "run" position, the red lights for the oil and charge lights in the dash lit up, is that a normal occurance when the key is turned to the run position?
These developments are such a relief!!! Finally some substantial progress!
What would Jesus do?  Also, What would you advise me to do ?


Edited by 1958 rambler super - Jul/15/2021 at 7:44pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote troutwilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/15/2021 at 11:41pm
This all sounds promising.  Starter turns the engine over.  Coil gets power in both run and start key positions.  All you need is fuel, but put the rest of the engine back together first.

You have a 4 headlight system.  The inner headlights are high beam only, therefore they only need 2 wires, a pos and and a neg (ground).  The outer headlights are both high and low beam, therefore they need 3 wires.  They are different, you need 2 of each type headlight.  In your 3 prong connector, one is ground (or neg (-)), one is for high beam (+), one is for low beam (+).  The high beam wire probably jumps from the 3 prong connector over to the 2 prong connector. And then there's the wire that runs to the red "high beam" indicator in the dash to let you know your high beams are on.
The "p" connector on the headlight switch is for parking lights.  Its the first click when you pull out the headlight switch.  The second click out turns on the headlights, and probably leaves the parking lights on.
The power to your headlights runs from the dash switch to the high beam switch on the floor.  This floor switch simply switches the power from low beam to high beam and back to low beam.  These floor switches are notorious for causing problems.  If you've checked everything and headlights still don't work properly you can check the high beam switch connections and operation, but there's a lot of power going through there so make sure you turn the headlight switch off and disconnect the battery first, or you'll be welding again.
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