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"1958 Rambler Super" mission fix it and drive it.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/30/2021 at 6:02pm
Engine builder update: the last part has arrived.... THE CAM SHAFT! 
So now the engine is next in line to be assembled, and I dropped off the flywheel to be resurfaced his morning, the person doing the rebuilding of the friction disc and also the servicing of the pressure plate down in staten island told me it would be best to have the flywheel resurfaced. He also told me he Inspected the pressure plate and found it had a warp in it, and the flywheel also would have had a warp in it, the friction disc had little to no wear on it, although it was glazed and the springs were loose. The previous owner gave me a unused friction disc with the stuff I "inherited" when I bot the rambler, it was an inch too large in diameter, and SOAKED in oil, so I sent with my friction disc and pressure plate to the guy down at "falcon clutch" and let him know what condition it was in and he can have it since I can't use it, and maybe if he can use some parts of it to rebuild my disc go ahead, but all that oil that had soaked into the friction material.... I don't think that's good.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/06/2021 at 10:13am
To attend to "priority #1" and the steps I wrote down in my book, I had set aside the budget for the various costs, then began building a "over spray tarp stand" so the spray'd paint from the paint cans won't fly threw the air and get on my neighbors cars, or mine. This weekend I selected pieces of old forgotten abandoned wood that were buried under all those pine needles and dirt, used a pair of old wooden saw horses and a vineerd composite fiber board as a work table, a very shaky one, but it's better then nothing. I bot a wood saw, it's a darn good one too, to cut the wood, I looked at the wood and thot "how would these two pieces join together well?" And did my best with the saw and after used a large flat head screw driver and a small block of wood to protect the end of the handle from shattering and my ball piene hammer to chisel out the cuts so they would fit together, and used screws after that to make very simple and crude joinery. Some of the work I did looked successful and other did not look so good! I did not have a hammer with a nail claw, but found a way to use a strong pair of channel lock pliers and some leverage against the wood to pull out old rusty hammerd in nails that would cut the tarp, that were either super rusty or hammerd in and all bent out of shape, also bent more by my process of taking them out of the wood.... I had a tape measure my dad gave me, it's a big one, unfortunately it had small magnets on the end piece, which again unfortunately caught onto my neighbors Mercedes convertible roof that he ANNOYINGLY put in front of the rambler in the only spot I could be obviously using to do the werk I'm trying to do.... Godam Mercedes owners. The tape measure magnets got stuck onto the side of the roof as the roof was put on the ground in my werk space and the magnets scratched the red paint... But I won't tell him, it's not a big scratch anyways. I used the tape measure to help me make decisions about what to do, I decided to make the tarp stand seven feet square, I measured out the engine stand and drew it's shape with rocks on the ground and imagined it there with the engine as I would be painting it, and walked around it to see if seven feet squared would give me enuff room to do the painting, and it seemed fine, so I that helped. After I had made the base sides I made the posts, six feet high, I made four of them, then I looked at the bases and made the parts the posts slide into, then after that I made the front base piece, both front and back piece slide into a wood block with a groove cut into it and this block is screwed to the base at the back and front areas of the base, the square shape of the tarp stand is made by sliding those pieces into the slots. The posts also had a smaller diameter connecting wood peiec travelling the opposite way and nailed to the top of the posts, then I made a other piece that connects the tops of the posts together travelling across diagnoly for even more stableness, and nailed those together, and nailed the bottoms of the posts together to the base boards before I nailed the tops together. I had run out of screws that I screwed in by hand since I didn't have a drill, so I started using the old nails I pulled out of the wood boards, I straightened them out with the ball piene hammer on the ground, rolling them back and forth to smack them flat, then I used a old triangle shaped fine file I bot that was in the same bag as the screw driver I needed at value village, to re-shape and sharpen the edges of the nails going into the wood. I almost used all of the old nails to help me build this over spray tarp stand, that I will wrap a tarp around and over top when I start painting. It took me more then twenty hours to make it between two full days of working untill the sun went down on Tuesday and Wednesday, and I'm pretty happy that it's ready, and I feel confident that it will be useful. When I get home today I'll be able to look at it in the daylight, as yesterday I finished hammering the last nail in when it was too dark to see!

Edited by 1958 rambler super - May/06/2021 at 12:32pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/12/2021 at 2:12pm
Some parts I have made....I was having a little trouble finding a replacement rubber boot for the clutch fork opening in the bellhousing, so I researched different types of materials to use, heat resistant flexible materials, heat resistant rubber types of materials ect. I looked at some different types of things I came across in the home Depot, rubber that turned out to be not a good choice as it would melt in the heat, the other thing was a fabric type of padding that you would put behind your pipes you were soldering so it wouldn't burn the wall, that wasn't a good thing to use either, and then at canadian tire, a heat resistant rubber silicone pad that was used for hair styling irons, so the iron could rest on it and not burn the counter, research on the internet for temperatures common in engine compartments was around 200 degrees, and I checked the rubber silicone pad I was buying and it was heat resistant over 200 degrees. The pad had a ripple texture on it that I carefully sliced off with a razor knife so the fastening frame that holds it onto the bellhouse could have a flat surface to make a decent seal, I tested it out, I put the frame on with the small bolts, put the new release bearing on the input shaft, then put the fork in the grooves of the bearing sleeve/collar so all those parts were assembled to see how the fork passing through the new boot I made would work, the boot flexes and it's not completely sealed when the clutch pedal is pressed all the way down, the boot flexes and opens about 1/8 inch or so, it's kinda a hard thing to measure when everything's in the car, but tomj had some pics of his transmission job he did, I looked at his boot he made and it looked like it was a pourus type stuff, almost like foam, and I thought no way, it can't be foam, but when I asked him he happily said it was foam, but special aero space foam that was heat resistant, the stuff they use on airplanes and maybe helicopters, he said his boot wasn't air tight either so I geuss it's something I can be ok with. After all, those factory made rubber boots crack and disintegrate over time anyhow and end up not being air tight too. The other thing I made was the "felt gasket 1.058" and the "felt 1.058" that is seen in the parts catalog pages Steve from blaser auto emailed me when he tried to give me some clues as to how the transmission bolts to the engine and if both engine mount bolts are used to fasten down the timing cover ect but I'm not sure if the parts catalog is specific to my rambler engine bay... I saw in the tsm I own, specific to my rambler apparently, and both engine mount bolts will pass through the spaces in the timing cover, but when I went out to the rambler and tried to "mock fit it", it wouldn't fit onto both bolts, so I'm stumped, and/or ignorant. Anyways, I searched through maybe four stores, and none had felt that was as thick as I needed, the remains of the "felt 1.058" piece that is the shape of a half circle that was stapled to the side of the flywheel cover that fits against the engine, presumably tucked under the flange of the crank shaft(?) Was eventually found at canadian tire of all places, it was a 6x4 inch felt pad that was 1/4 thick with a sticky backing you peel off and stick it to stuff, I doubled it up since the remains looked like it was 1/2 thick, I traced out a probable shape and cut it to form with the razor knife, then bot some tiny carpenters nails and put them through the opposite side first, slightly poking them through the flywheel cover and felt with gentle taps with a ballpiene hammer, making a tiny dot with a felt pen to mark where they pass through, then took them out and put them in the way there supposed to fasten the felt, I used a punch to increase the distance the carpenters nails went through the felt so I had more length of the nail to bend over to hold the felt on the other side of the flywheel cover, so they were bent over just like the original staples were bent over. Then I filed down the nails alittle bit just to decrease the presence of the nails inside the cover......and here is a pic showing the old seat covers, probably original from the age you can see on the seats.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pacerman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/12/2021 at 2:59pm
One tip to getting industrial type materials like different thickness of rubber and felt is to sue a catalog company like Grainger.  You may need to set up an account with them.  MSC if they are still in business also is a good source.  Joe
Happiness is making something out of nothing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/20/2021 at 4:22pm
Yep! It was a good idea at the time, but when I went there I found out that they did have 1/4 thick felt, but it was only in strips,and not larger pieces to be as wide as some parts of that flywheel cover.
The rubber that they could order and sell to me was I think not as long as I needed and it was not heat resistant, so I couldn't use it for the clutch fork boot I was trying to make, and I think it wasn't long enough to use for whatever I could have done to restore the rubber at the bottoms of the windows. So Grainger was no help and I ended up finding after a long search the stuff is used in the pics.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/21/2021 at 9:51am
THE 195.6 HAS BEEN ASSEMBLED AND IS BACK AT MY HOUSE GETTING READY FOR PAINTING!
it can rain.... Sometimes it rains.
But it's more noticeable when it decides to rain while your driving back to your house with a freshly rebuilt engine in the back of the truck.
I thought it was stressful jumping out of the truck I just rented at a red light to throw my jacket over the plastic bag that coverd the engine, of all days in the week it had to rain that day.
Writing out the scenario and planning for this day was productive and a good idea, but I forgot to write "bring a blanket to cover the engine on the journey back to the house", that would have been a good one, just incase it rains. I also didn't think to include how stressed out I could get, driving a huge truck I just rented, it was big. It was like a tank, I'm not even sure it's nesesary to have pick up trucks be that big.
Basically it all went as planned, but it cost more then a hundred bucks more for some reason... Oh well, I don't wanna be the richest man in the graveyard anyways.... It's a good attitude to have on these days.
Renting the hoist was ok, but not fun, I got lucky with the rental place, they were throwing out cardboard that I could use to lay the hoist parts down on so I wouldn't scuff up the bed of the truck, and they were big pieces, the hoist apparently could hoist 6000 pounds...it was big.
Driving down the driveway at my house was alittle stressful too, the width between cement walls was something like 93 or so Inches, I had to stand up in the driver's seat and with most of my torso out the window looking at the edges of driveway and front bumper while I toed the gas and brake untill I slowly rolled through safely, then I had to make a 25 point turn and got stuck once, but eventually had arranged the truck so the tail gate was near the only flat surface in the backyard, the place I had planned to set the engine on the stand.
My neighbors Mercedes parked there didn't leave me much space and I almost creamed it once, but wanted to cream it more then once. It wasn't getting any less rainy, so I coverd the engine with two blankets, two tarps and a third one over as much of the truck bed as I could to stop rain from gathering in the valleys of the texture of the truck bed and dripping down and soaking into the plywood the engine was resting on. I left it all like that untill morning to finish the job when the rain stopped, the next morning when I woke up, the last thing I was excited about was finishing that job, and then returning the hoist and truck, having to negotiate the truck out of the back yard with out hitting anything and then driving through town in traffic, but the feeling didn't last long and I was up and at it after a big healthy breakfast. I went and looked at the engine and figured out what size bolts to buy to attach the hoist to at which parts of the block, it wasn't something I could do with out the engine there, but with the engine finally in front of me I could say "ok, how about a bolt here and here to attach the chains to" and see what I could do.
(But maybe don't pass the chain over the cyl head, it looks like it might move the head and wreck the seal the head gasket is making- that's a thought I had as I was looking at it) the first store I went to didn't have bolts long enough to pass through the long 3inch stand adapter piece and thread into the block, but the second store at the other end of town did, but I bot the wrong length and had to go back, so annoying, then I STILL needed to go buy a whole bunch of washers to take up the 1/4 space still left. After that I had a pretty confident feeling and hoisted the 195.6 up in the air, drove the truck forward, attached the engine stand adapter to the block while thinking "this must be the best way to do this and have the engine be as balanced on the stand as I can" but I'm not sure it is, and am hesitant to try and rotate the engine that's now on the stand.... After that I lifted the rest of the stand up to the adapter that was attached to the block and wrestled the pin in which took alot of effort, and once I even tried Sanding off all the paint from the stand and adapter pieces so it wouldnt catch on the paint and stick as I was trying to slide it together but it only helped alittle, then I lowered the engine mounted to the stand to the ground slowly, and waited a few moments with the chains still on just incase the stand and engine needed some adjusting but it didn't, then I disconnected the hoist, disconstructed it, made another 25 point turn to manuover the truck out of the backyard, returned the hoist, returned the truck, good riddance, and bussed home.
Then finally finished my morning coffee 7 hours later!! And then it was time to relax and get back to enjoying the work I do on the rambler, I don't enjoy the other stuff, stressing out over driving big trucks down tiny driveways that are for the birds, are transporting engines in the rain that cost almost $4900

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/23/2021 at 10:46am
I finished degreasing the engine and have that part of prepping the engine for painting done, but I am battling rust that is spreading on the engine fast, I don't have a garage, and have no way of storing the 195.6 Inside some place, so it's just sitting on a engine stand in front of the rambler outside, wrapped in two blankets, then big plastic garbage bags and a water proof tarp incase it rains but also to protect the engine from direct sunlight, so condensation doesn't occur Inside the plastic bags.
I have also noticed the rust has started to appear inside the engine..... At this time specifically on the inside walls of the block inside the two rectangular inspection areas where the rods that extend upwards from the tapets are.
This was something I noticed last night and it got me worked up into a state.
But later on I thought about it and decided maybe I should take one of the smaller paint bushes I have and brush some light engine oil onto the inner surfaces of the engine to coat it so the air can't get to it and keep rusting it, I'll also brush on some oil onto the other moving parts like the valve and spring assemblies ect ect
The engine has all the openings taped shut, but I geuss the air has still gotten inside.
The outside of the block has lots of rust on it, on the side opposite to the spark plugs, last night I used a portable drill I bought and a small wire wheel and wire wheeled off almost all of it, but I think the drill 18 or 20 volts doesn't have enough power to really get the rust off and the battery died so quickly, I'll get back at it tonight and try and get even more of the rust off, and also buy another smaller wire wheel to get at the smaller curves and smaller areas. On Monday I'll call rondex automotive paint store and order the paint, they are closed on weekends, and my days off this week are Tuesday and Wednesday, so I can't paint it exactly right away, so the engine has to sit there and rust some more. And I will have to wait for the clutch to return from falcon clutch down in new York and also put on the harmonic balancer before I am able to drop the 195.6 into the engine bay, so, I'll brush on some oil for the inside of the engine, paint the engine when I can, and wait.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/23/2021 at 2:42pm
Has anyone here ever seen this type of oil filter setup?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/23/2021 at 9:58pm
Maybe I'm not taking this as seriously as I should be because I don't know what I'm doing, but maybe leaving the engine out like this with no choice because of no garage is very very bad and I don't know how bad it is for the engine in it's unbroken in state.... I just talked to someone here on the amc forum and they said you have the engine holes taped up, that's good, but the rest of the engine is going to rust, it's not painted and clean iron rusts instantly, the inside will also rust since there's not a coating of oil in there the engines outside and can't be put inside, and it's not sealed, those two things aren't compatible for a engine that's vulnerable.... He didn t say all that but it's close to the idea of what he was saying.
In thinking about what I could do about the problem, I had two ideas, the first was to go back home right after werk and take off the valve cover and completely and profusely bath everything, rocker arms,springs, iron casting, everything in a coating of oil using a small paint brush (a clean one) (actually it was a fairly expensive one that I used to paint a far out famous quote from the ending of the movie "color from space" a movie by h.p. Lovecraft, I painted it on my living room wall, my landlord hasn't noticed it yet) and do the same to as much that was reachable with the oily paint brush inside those two rectangular openings, I think they might be inspection covers for something, what's behind them is the rods that travel up from the tappets that ride on the lobes of the cam shaft ( I think I mentioned that earlier ), I also squirted a good amount down each "oil gallery hole" (the raised casting that travels along the length of the lower area of the block) and down each spark plugs hole, someone from the forum told me that was a bad idea, but I did it anyways thinking it would be better then not doing it.... because Coating the inside with oil, that would drop and spread on the surface area of wherever it flowed and stop the air from getting to those places and stopping rust from occuring anymore then it already has or would have.
I can't turn the engine by hand because I can't grab onto the end of the crank with the engine stand adapter in the way, and I can't turn the engine by hand at the other end of the engine because the harmonic balancer isn't installed yet, the builder said he would do it but when I picked up the 195.6 it wasn't on, I think he must have looked at it and maybe said "f that" the balancer looked old and the rubber bushings (?) That seem to be "bushing" the two bolts between the two parts (?) Of this particular old harmonic balancer are old squished and need to be replaced, so maybe it made him not want to put it on, or not, how should I know? I didn't wanna ask him because he had said he would put it on, along with the timing cover, which he didn't bother charging me for, and that was after I realized from watching videos on YouTube FOREVER to learn about the engine and the car in general, because the tsm doesn't tell you basic things, and I saw the timing cover has to go on with a backing plate, before the crank and cam gears and then the gears and timing chain go on then the rest of he timing cover, and he didn't know that before when he gave me a total for the bill for the build, and he just said he would do those extra jobs for free, so I didn't wanna ask him why he didn't put it on. But anyways, the balancer isn't there for me to turn the crank by hand so the engine pistons ect can't be moved to move the oil around and let the parts move somewhere else from time to time. Today I was planning on going out and buying a balancer instal tool and putting it on.



Edited by 1958 rambler super - May/24/2021 at 11:34am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/28/2021 at 2:03pm
Ok, I have the clutch back and can start working owards putting the 195.6 in the engine bay, I ha e located one rad hose so far and and still searching for the upper one, I also am trying hard to understand the regular oiling system for this engine, can anyone instruct me on how it works and how the pipes travel to the oil filter and where it is best attached?? Tomj told me the pipe travels from the lower oil gallery up to the cyl head, but I still don't know how to set up a new oil filter system, as the one I have now is unknown to him and he says the regular system is much simpler and I'd like to figure it out for my engine, I'd appreciate any help from the forum?
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