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Drip Rail Trim Repair

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3250man View Drop Down
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    Posted: Nov/29/2020 at 6:17pm

Worked on the window drip rail trim today. Lots of crud in the locking channels and I had to go real slow to remove the trim. As you can see, the removal tool (bottle opener), left some marks.

I’m open to any advice/tricks-of-the-trade to get them smoothed out. This is my first time to attempt this. Watched several YouTube videos and decide to attempt to fix them. Thanks.


 

1974 Mellow Yellow N-code AMX (restoring)- "Steve"
2016 Chevy Colorado (RIPP supercharged V6)
1973 Corvette
1974 Trans AM Red P-code AMX
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote turbo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/29/2020 at 6:57pm
First, you can not use a bottle opener to remove trim.  Ruins it.  Use a 1 1/2 inch wide hard wood block and tap off lower edge little at a time.  Yours may be toast.....I could do it but it takes a certain amount of attention to detail. it would take a professional restorer a good bit of effort to repair yours.  No worries, easy enough to get another set and re install.  You have made a very common mistake.
they call me Capt RETIRED!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tufcj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/29/2020 at 7:12pm
My AMX came with the drip rail trim looking like someone attacked it with a hammer.  I watched all kinds of videos, and bought hammers and a buffing wheel kit.  I tried and found I didn't have the knack for it.

Sent it to "The Finishing Touch" in Chicago.  Came back looking new.  Ran about $35 a linear foot.  It was money well spent and just a small fraction of the total cost of restoring the AMX.

Bob
tufcj
69 AMX
74 Javelin AMX
67 Rogue

If you need a tool and don't buy it...
you'll eventually pay for it...
and not have it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote turbo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/29/2020 at 7:35pm
Yea, they're good.......Took about a year for a bumper chroming for me though.  You do NOT want to cheap out on the look of your stainless, however.  Bad stainless will make an otherwise GREAT car look like an overlooked turd.  That and the glass are often overlooked.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve_P Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/29/2020 at 8:13pm
There are probably more than 20 threads on here saying to use a block of hardwood and knock it off from the inside out.  I've posted it many times.  Lesson learned.  Now get out the credit card.  


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1BadJav Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/29/2020 at 8:57pm
I might have a decent set, from a 72/73 Javelin.  I can check tomorrow.
72 AMC Javelin SST - 401/727
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve_P Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/30/2020 at 8:10am
Your best bet will be to get a set that's been properly removed. If it's from a 71-4 Javelin, it'd be the cheapest route versus to restore what you have. And do not hammer them on with a rubber mallet! Wrap a block of wood with a rag and press them on. Start at the sharp bends and work away.
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