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401 going to Machinist should I drill oil passage?
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rang-a-stang View Drop Down
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    Posted: Oct/15/2020 at 11:22am
Sending my short block off for some work including a hot tank. My oiling system is stock. Should I drill out the oil passage that goes from the oil pressure sending port up the to lifter valley? If so, is there a write up anywhere? 

Any other mods I should do to my block? I already added a few oil drain back holes to the lifter valley...
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There is a guy in my area that runs a loop line on the back of the block connecting the right and left lifter gallery together. he claims it is much better than the lifter valley line for a band aid and easier to do.
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My machinist has an oven and shot blaster to clean blocks, he says that the oven does a better job of removing the crap from the water jackets.  Since you said there was a lot of sand in the block, maybe an oven is better for your block?  If you aren't going to bore it, I'd avoid the shot blasting.
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Originally posted by wrebelmachine wrebelmachine wrote:

There is a guy in my area that runs a loop line on the back of the block connecting the right and left lifter gallery together. he claims it is much better than the lifter valley line for a band aid and easier to do.
Originally posted by PAGAENT PAGAENT wrote:

X2
Copy that. I'll check that out. 
Originally posted by mbwicz mbwicz wrote:

My machinist has an oven and shot blaster to clean blocks, he says that the oven does a better job of removing the crap from the water jackets.  Since you said there was a lot of sand in the block, maybe an oven is better for your block?  If you aren't going to bore it, I'd avoid the shot blasting.
The first time I rebuilt this engine (8k miles ago, about 18 months ago), I picked out a TON of rust scale, casting sand, and other garbage out of my water jackets. The machinist I used that time did the baking/shot peening/high pressure washing process as well. Yet last night I picked even more sand and scale out! I was really surprised how much was left in there. I assume the heating/cooling cycles after the last 18 months of driving broke even more stuff loose? My jackets are nice and clean'ish now. 
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Concentrate, on the oil flow, through the timing set to the distributor gears.
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No you only need to run a long 5/16 bit in the main feed holes. remove the cam bearings first. and verify your timing set oil hole location as mentioned.
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Originally posted by Hurst390 Hurst390 wrote:

No you only need to run a long 5/16 bit in the main feed holes. remove the cam bearings first. and verify your timing set oil hole location as mentioned.

This is what I told him as well.
Once you clean up the main feed holes, de-burr the slot at the cam bearings with some emery cloth.
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Holy blocked passages, batman!!! Good input! My #5 was about 1/3 blocked! The other 4 had casting flash but not like #5. All clear now! 
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Points: 5122 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel Machine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/17/2020 at 7:31am
Originally posted by wrebelmachine wrebelmachine wrote:

There is a guy in my area that runs a loop line on the back of the block connecting the right and left lifter gallery together. he claims it is much better than the lifter valley line for a band aid and easier to do.



I've seen that done on a Ford block. Makes a ton of sense, just make sure the flywheel doesn't get into it.

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