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Coil over conversion advice

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304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/15/2019 at 6:38pm
Well, there is not a problem for street driving... but after a lot of work as of recent to modding my custom suspension.

Once upper and lower arms go out of factory swing sync, there is some issues in the upper swing where camber gain becomes excessive enough to ruin tires and make grip less so, due to aggressive camber change entering a corner hard, and leaving out of a hard corner. You want camber locked at a static setting as much as possible.

It seems like you want a street car, more than an occasional auto crosser.


Have not tested a stock 70s up suspension, under spring drop, but did do a chart on how some of the camber gain swing does level out some, a bit better than stock.

So, as with any suspension mod, look at all the components that can be affected. One thing you can do that won't hurt, is to adjust caster to its max adjustment. Around 3° max for radials and a wee sharper feel in cornering.

The reason why I spoke up on lowering plates, is because it's simple and does the job without effecting suspension.

A rebuilt suspension will handle very well, and is something I would do while adding coil overs.





Edited by 304-dude - Oct/16/2019 at 8:10am
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/16/2019 at 6:36am
Camber changes through the swing due to the unequal length upper and lower arms. Kept in the factory range the change is beneficial, but get too far away from that range and the camber change gets more radical, with the short upper arms pulling the top of the tire in at max lower and upper ends of the range. It's set up to have minimal change in the middle of the range where it would be with factory springs. That's a bit oversimplified, but pretty much the main issue. amazing how someone came up with the idea to make the long and short arms work precisely together!
Frank Swygert
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304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/16/2019 at 8:22am
Did a wee correction on my reply... brain was stuck on camber, when explaining the adjustment on caster.

Now it reads correctly. As for camber adjustments, keep it stock when realigned.

Also keep an eye out for inside tread wear. If too much is going on, adding a wee bit more positive camber to offset if needed. You may find 0 camber is needed if such wear pattern becomes an issue.

Most are running coil overs with suspension setup kit. Such as Control Freak as an example. Modding just to install coil overs, won't have the same effect, since Control Freak and like setups, have updated geometry, suche as offset ball joints, control arm placement to go with the coil over install.

WSC coil over kit, may not address the needs for cornering as well, when dropping 2". But it does make for an easy bolt in setup with height adjustability.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldamcnut Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/16/2019 at 11:33am
Has anyone tried Dairyland Fabrication's coil over set up? = just type in dairyland fabrication for pictures etc.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldamcnut Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/16/2019 at 11:55am
Well, after reading more I see Steve from Dairyland has posted here but I would still like to know if anyone has used it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/16/2019 at 12:33pm
Hey 304-dude,

Thanks for the information, it is totally helpful.  Yes, you are correct....looking to just have a just a street car.  No auto cross or even what would be considered "aggressive" driving.  Looking primarily for the lower stance.  Max drop will be 1.5" more likely 1"  I have seen Eaton lowering springs available for both front and rear which may also fill the need.  The adjust-ability of the coil over is the primary reason I'm considering it.  Smoother or stiffer are good options to have...if I did just a shorter spring, I don't gain the adjust-ability, but that comes with a price tag.  I just need to weigh out the cost vs. benefit.  In talking with many, many of the guys who have done the swap to coil overs...they all agree their car handles much, much better.

Thanks again for the tech advice.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rsrguy3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/02/2020 at 11:59pm
Ya.. I know about punched trunks.... I had a bad shock blow through mine going over rr tracks. So what’s your take on the CF coil over conversion vs it’s full bolt in replacement ? Are their any shortcuts to a nice ride stance and sweet handling?
javguy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/03/2020 at 6:09am
Stock shock mounts, front or rear, aren't designed to carry the total weight of the car. The spring tower are, hence the big bracket that Dairyland makes. For the rear you'd need a crossmember to mount the shocks to. A piece of 2" square tubing welded (or even bolted) across the car where the original shock mounts are would do it. That would spread the load across the entire crossmember/body, not concentrate it at one point.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldamcnut Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/03/2020 at 11:25am
That makes sense for the rear, I had not considered coil over for the rear, just starting with the front since everything is apart. One of my concerns is whether the stock lower control arms will stand the extra weight of coil overs in the Dairyland Fabrication design. Also, since you brought up the rear change over, is there a downside to not changing to coil overs in the rear at the same time. This is all being proposed as an upgrade to a 69 S/C Rambler.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mopar_guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/03/2020 at 11:31am
Originally posted by rsrguy3 rsrguy3 wrote:

Ya.. I know about punched trunks.... I had a bad shock blow through mine going over rr tracks. So what’s your take on the CF coil over conversion vs it’s full bolt in replacement ? Are their any shortcuts to a nice ride stance and sweet handling?
Lowering plates are the shortcut. 6 cylinder springs also work well.

Personally I think the CF setup is overpriced either way but it's the only bolt in option out there for the big body cars.  Replacing the stock springs and shocks with coil overs is the most cost effective way. A quick ratio steering box is a must to really get it to drive better  There's a lot of reading on this topic if you do some searching. I'm not a fan of lowering plates and wouldn't use them.


Edited by Mopar_guy - Feb/03/2020 at 3:37pm

"Hemilina" My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin
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