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Flywheel bolts too long

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danleym View Drop Down
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    Posted: Aug/17/2022 at 3:28pm
I'm installing an aftermarket T5 onto a 1980 258. It has an aftermarket flywheel, too. The bolts the trans/flywheel manufacturer supplied me (Mr Gasket #914) are bottoming out on the engine block- just barely. I don't know if they're the wrong part or if my new flywheel is thinner than factory. Either way, anyone know of a source for the same 1/2-20 bolts that are shorter? Maybe 3/4? I think 15/16 might still be too long, too.

Can I just use grade 8 from the hardware store? Anything actually different about these bolts other than the shorter head? They're labeled as grade 8.


Edited by danleym - Aug/17/2022 at 3:52pm
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Heavy 488 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Heavy 488 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/17/2022 at 3:55pm
ARP 290-2802
These should be 7/8.
I believe the 914 should have worked also.
Don't use hardware store bolts.


Edited by Heavy 488 - Aug/17/2022 at 4:21pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DragRacingSpirit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/17/2022 at 5:20pm
I know this has been discussed before but I have used grade 8 hardware store bolts and serrated lock washers for years without issue.

I guess on my new indy motor I will get ARP flexplate bolts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Hemirambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/17/2022 at 9:22pm
The problem with buying "hardware store" Grade 8 fasteners is you really don't know what quality you're getting. Sounds counter intuitive, I mean grade 8 is Grade 8 - Right? Well....there are many "fakes" out there. When I worked in the Medical Equipment industry we would only buy "Domestic" hardware. These days I'm not sure that'd even be enough. In this case I'd definitely be after Name brand quality: SPS, ARP, Holokrome, Unbrako, etc.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve_P Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/17/2022 at 10:04pm
Don't use serrated lock washers on a flywheel or anywhere critical.  Typical lock washers don't work on rigid applications like this; which is why AMC didn't use them, and they were obsessed with lock washers.  Look under the hood of a new car.  Count the lock washers.  You might see one between a flat washer and screw head on something plastic.  Otherwise it's almost all serrated flange head bolts and nuts.  Why?  Because typical lock washers don't work.  This has been known for decades, but some things are slow to change.

There is a lot of talk about counterfeit fasteners, but this is in military applications.  Most typical fastener failures are not because of substandard materials.

The only lock washer that actually works is a very expensive type called a Nord-Lock.  And they are thick.


Edit: If someone actually has real tensile test data on fasteners, from a reputable vendor like McMaster, being substandard, I'd love to see it. 




Edited by Steve_P - Aug/17/2022 at 10:06pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Class Guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/18/2022 at 7:05am
If you have a bench grinder, you can shorten them yourself by grinding the ends down.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote SC397 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/18/2022 at 8:58am
Or, you could just buy the ones that work.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Hemirambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/18/2022 at 9:04am
Originally posted by Steve_P Steve_P wrote:


There is a lot of talk about counterfeit fasteners, but this is in military applications.  Most typical fastener failures are not because of substandard materials.

I'll respectfully disagree. Many industries have suffered from counterfeit fasteners. We saw it in medical, my buddy saw it in construction, documentaries in aviation illustrate it as well.  The Chinese are famous for 'printing' whatever COC (Certificate of Conformance) that you required, but the problem was they were rarely ever actually tested or verified. We saw that not only with fasteners, but also materials. Heck in their dishonesty they'd even REDEFINE US material designations.  In the US if you buy 6061-T6 from a reputable vendor you are basically assured of certain mechanical properties and physical properties as a result. That assurance goes away when the Chinese are involved.  And yes we did testing and it usually happened after some critical failure. And no they didn't happen to give me those reports after I left the company.

BTW this isn't limited to Chinese companies. We had a product in the field for years with no issues. Suddenly we had several units less than a year old with catastrophic drive screw failures. The subsequent failure analysis revealed that the vendor chose to substitute case hardened 1095 acme screws in place of the 4140HT material that we specified and used with great success for 10 plus years. The field action cost well over a million dollars and we were a very low volume industry having mere 100's of units in the field.

There's good reason the racing community supports companies like ARP and the others. Some areas just aren't worth the risk.

Your mileage may vary.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mstrcrftr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/18/2022 at 9:28am
In my line of work we use a lot of stainless steel tubing.  On one project i was working on, We received about 10 thousand feet of 1/2 inch tubing.  i picked up a 20 ft stick of it and noticed it was about half the weight it should have been.  i looked at the rating and it had the correct rating marked on the side.  Then i noticed it was made in china.  We had to return all 10 thousand feet of it, banned the supplier for sending Chinese tubing when our contract clearly said "Made in USA" for the tubing.
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