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Floor Pans |
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Tchara
AMC Apprentice Joined: Jan/05/2022 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 35 |
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Posted: Feb/27/2022 at 4:29pm |
Hi I'm working on a 1977 Pacer. The floor pans are in pretty bad shape. (see Pic) I have no sheet metal experience or fabrication tools. Replacement pans are non exsistant for the Pacer. I saw somewhere, that the Gremlin uses the same pans. Does anyone know if this is true. My other option I am considering is fiberglass. Has anyone used fiberglass for pan repair, and if so, how was the outcome. I'm not doing a complete restoration to take to shows. I just want to repair it well enough to drive and maybe go to AMO meets. Any input would be appreciated. https://1drv.ms/u/s!AqqwG_V2-2fkll-0b55Hinw4GtgQ
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bigbad69
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/02/2007 Location: Ottawa, Ont. Status: Offline Points: 6685 |
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All AMCs are unit body construction, which means the tub is the frame. Replacing rotten floors with fibreglass weakens the the structure. You need to replace the floors with steel of equal rigidity to maintain the integrity.
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69 Javelin SST BBO 390 T10
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Trader
AMC Addicted Joined: May/15/2018 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 6909 |
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If your not fussy about original, cut out to good metal, go to a wrecker and find a PU with good floors for replacement metal. PU's are good as they usually have extra sheet metal and the hump for RWD.
A MIG welder would be a good investment, not hard to learn to use. A few videos and some practice.
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1958 rambler super
AMC Addicted Joined: Dec/10/2020 Location: Victoria BC can Status: Offline Points: 1204 |
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Hey there bud, I'm currently further down the timeline but same project as you with repairing a rusty floor, I had a lot of help from the guys here on the forum, I'm still working away at it and will post a pic soon of a completed driver's side floor section, but there's still the other four floor areas to repair, it's going to be a big job. Anyways, here's some tips for you, don't let me tell you what to do, but I'll give you some advice on how to not waste about four weeks of time... Buy a MIG welder, sort out the power supply issue, you'll need access to about 20 amps to power a good welding machine, something that requires about 15amps is not desirable, but it's still a welding machine btw... Just not as good of a performer as a 20 amp power requirement welder, get some gas, MIG gas is I think 75%argon and 25%Co2, a 55cubic foot tank which is about three feet or so tall and weighs about 45lbs will be a good start, don't bother starting with flux core, if you do, like I did, you'll probably end up eventually getting the gas because flux core is a little tougher to weld with and it's super messy, lots of Time will be spent cleaning off the slaag before you weld the same area again, MIG welding process doesn't require that step. Now for the new metal part of your work: get some hard paper board, not cardboard, it will not cut very precise shapes, but use a thicker paper from a art store, find out where the rusty floor areas are, you can smack the floor with a screw driver and see where it stops punching through the rust, once you find you perimeter of rust, cut out the same shape with the paper to make templates, or shapes, after you have your shape cut out of the paper trace that same shape out on to your new metal and cut it, then weld that into the rest of the not rusted out floor, which patches the hole, clean up the metal first so the weld will be a successful weld and will weld easy, after that, use rubbing alcohol or some degreaser to clean the areas and prime it and paint it. Welding isn't easy, but as the pieces get welded in and you can see progress, it feels good. Good luck!
Edited by 1958 rambler super - Feb/28/2022 at 11:47am |
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1958 rambler super
AMC Addicted Joined: Dec/10/2020 Location: Victoria BC can Status: Offline Points: 1204 |
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Here's a pic of what your new floor could look like if your as lucky as me (and also determined, that gas cylinder I mentioned, I walked probably an equivalent of 18 blocks with the cyl back to my house after buying it, can't take gas on the bus)
Edited by 1958 rambler super - Mar/04/2022 at 4:53pm |
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hassyfoto
AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/16/2009 Location: Maryland Status: Offline Points: 3378 |
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First, We have the same first name. Very Kool. I get to meet very few folks with our unique name.
Second: 1958 rambler super has an excellent answer for you with photos. A lot of folks get caught up with making floor panels & such for parts that are never seen, which is very Kool for a high end or concours restoration. Since you just want to drive the vehicle, cosmetic inconsistencies such as the correct contour floorboards is not all that important. You can create floorboards from flat Sheetmetal. Adding stress points & indentations is pretty easy with a hammer. (Watch some youtube videos). Use posterboard to make templates for each angle of metal, cut out the metal and weld in place. Again 1958 rambler super, work is exactly that and mighty good at that. His work is not the original contours, but appears to be an excellent.
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Murphy's Law:
Any given mechanical job you decide to solve alone will imminently require a third hand, at its most critical moment |
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1958 rambler super
AMC Addicted Joined: Dec/10/2020 Location: Victoria BC can Status: Offline Points: 1204 |
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Thanks  hassyfoto! Your compliments about my arduous labor which at times was unbelievable, while I was working through to get my car on the road bring a smile to my face I really need, thanks! A small pat on the back can go along way!
And also tchara, if you want to review my journey from step one: posting a thread exactly like yours, to steps currently being taken: making HUGE progress with the big job, feel free to read from beginning to end, for maximum knowledge gain and uplifting motivation my thread called "massive rust under rambler super" (or something like that) I recently posted updates that took a super long time, and someone in your situation can get alot of motivation and help to get the progress started, there's lots of info on this job in that thread. Here's a link for the welder I use.... https://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-ca/products/k2658-1 Here's a link for the power adapter I use, but be sure to read my thread to see resolving questions and comments that led me to finally understand which adapter I needed to use, you might have a diff plug pattern then this link pictures..... https://acworks.com/collections/residential/products/s1430cb520-14-30p-dryer-plug-to-household-with-breaker
Edited by 1958 rambler super - Mar/05/2022 at 4:03pm |
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Tchara
AMC Apprentice Joined: Jan/05/2022 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 35 |
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Hey AMC addicted Thanks for all the advice. I will read all the thread you suggested. If my floor pans look half as good as yours, I'll be tickled pink!! Great job. I mentioned I have no sheet metal fab experience, but failed to mention I also have zilch welding experience.What a great adventure this will be! I own a 90 amp HF welder that I have used a few times but with not a lot of success. So what brand welder did you buy? I've looked into buying a gas welder, but haven't been able to pry the wallet open far enough. I was hopeful I could use the flux welder, if I knew the best flux wire to use on sheet metal. My other option is get the metal fabricated, and hire a mobile welder to come and weld them for me. This might be a cheaper alternative. |
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Tchara
AMC Apprentice Joined: Jan/05/2022 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 35 |
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Sorry rambler super. Got your name wrong....LOL
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1948kaiser
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/25/2015 Location: south west flor Status: Offline Points: 835 |
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try john's salvage company in seguin texas 830 379 2092. is at 2020 fox trotter road. i had them cut out the bottom of a gremlin from the fire wall back to the riser for the rear seats and the tunnel from side to side in one piece and had it shipped to florida.
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