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Flat head combustion chamber

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43n View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 43n Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/28/2021 at 11:21pm
Farna: thanks for the very thorough and specific comments…

The Holley/Weber carburetor On 2 L Pinto engines and 140ci Chevy Vega engines  produced a 5 to 10% improvement in fuel economy.

 Also TomJ He has in-depth Weber carb tuning data on his site
...And a great heads up for an inexpensive but effective plastic fan

The MSD ignition improved  the idle and tip in response… 
In my experience. The multiple spark feature Works through 3000 RPM… I generally experimented with plug gaps from.045”-.060”


The cylinder head “Dome” I referred to can be seen in the Tom J photos on page 1 of this thread..May benefit from a long reach spark plug since there would be no danger of hitting the valves or piston

The Edmunds cylinder head combustion chamber looked like a more typical Flathead chamber… On the topside it was evident the 2 carburetors could better feed the especially distant end cylinders ..#1 & #6.  Normally the end ports on an in-line six cylinder are exhaust… Not intake..
   However this was intentional I believe because

   The stock Nash/AMC layout had the advantage of the carburetor directly over a pair of exhaust ports for quick winter warm up and fuel vaporization...Imagine a winter start up in Kenosha at -10°F with blowing wind and snow… Everyone else’s Manifolds snow and ice covered and hanging out in the icy blast & being further chilled by the Subzero air from the fan… Score one for the Nash/Rambler/AMC design

It is no secret that Henry Ford ran the exhaust passages on his flathead V-8 through the block… We’re talking winter in Detroit and warm up with quick heat was an essential part of his design 

A 2 inch exhaust sounds adequate… Thanks



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/29/2021 at 5:41am
I forgot TomJ posted photos of the engine and head! Went back and looked... definite "dome" where the sparker is. An extended reach plug might very well help, but it may foul more easily or burn too hot (in the flame front more) and not last long -- only one way to find out!

Nash was known for an excellent heater, and I'm sure the intake design had a lot to do with it. They also were the first to routinely use a 195 degree thermostat, at least AFAIK. Most other US makes were using 180. Even the big OHV sixes used a "built-in" intake.
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RINGO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/30/2021 at 4:29am
HI. I HAVE 64 330. WANT TO SWAP ENGINE , TRANS AND REAR END. WANT EASIEST SWAP POSSIBLE. 4 CYLINDER V6 OR V8. I'M LOST AS FAR AS WHERE TO GO TO GET IDEAS. AND IDEAS OR HELP WOULD BE AWESOME. THANKS BOB
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/30/2021 at 8:23pm
Post this over in the Frankenrambler section. Of course you can swap in any AMC V-8 or inline six. The 4.0L from a 96-2000 Cherokee would be your best bet -- still AMC in design and "allowed" in the AMC six section. The four cylinder (fuel injected) from the same would also be a great choice, and was also used in Dakotas in the 2000s. Depends on what you want! At least one guy (WARBED on the Forum) has used the 2.5L Jeep four, but in an older American. With a six or four you can even use the stock rear axle, but will need a driveshaft made. The "big nut" axle/driveshaft is a little weird, but it works well -- unless you want to put a lot of power through it. Stay under about 300 hp and you won't have an issue with either. Keeping the rear axle makes any swap a little easier, but you may want to change it anyway.
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kcarlsted Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/05/2022 at 8:12pm
Very interested if anyone has measured the cc volume of a stock '58-'60 Rambler L-head

I have sourced a Nash Statesman 2v head, I'm not 100% sure of what year it's from. I'm trying to figure out what compression it will be without removing my stock head. Thinking about machining a little off if needed. I have read that can cause flow issues resulting in decreased performance despite the increase in compression.

My simple water test on the Nash 2v head is measuring about 60cc

The casting number is 3143892
My searching doesn't come up with much with that number. It appears to have a date cast into it as well, 3-14-56, but I don't think the '56 Statesman used the L-head motor

Any info on this would be appreciated.

I want to swap the 2v head onto my '59 Rambler American motor
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ramblinrev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/05/2022 at 8:39pm
Right...if you shave the head or deck the block to try to raise compression you also hamper breathing on an L-head.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tyrodtom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/05/2022 at 10:07pm
There's a process old flathead Ford racers did,  I think it was called relieving,  slightly grinding away the  top of the block in the area between the valves and the cylinder.  Of course the takes back away from some of the compression you just gained by milling the head.

I did this on a 59 American flathead 196 I rebuilt in 66,   I did so many other modifications during the same overhaul that there was no way I could say for sure what helped and what hurt,  but the end result was a fine running flathead that was noticeably faster than a later OHV 196  in a 64 American I had next.

66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nickleone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/05/2022 at 10:59pm
My 62 Classic SW with 196 OHV runs 160 to 170 degrees at 70 MPH and a few degreese more sitting in  100 degree humid weather.  I use a 95 Ford Explorer radiator $25 at the pull a part.  Stock fan with the Explorer shroud I rebilt the engine in 2010 it has 10K miles from doing 3 Hot Rod Power Tours. Does not burn oil.  Also a T5 trans with Modern Drive Line adapter and 8.8 rear with 3.73 gears.  I use a Chinese YF clone cost about $70 from eBay.




Edited by nickleone - Jul/06/2022 at 10:44pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/06/2022 at 8:43pm
Kcarlsted -- The Statesman used the L head 195.6 from 1952 to 1955. The L-head was converted to OHV in 1956. All 56 and 57 engines were OHV. The L-head was reintroduced along with the American in 1958.

As long as you have a 195.6 head it will have the same compression as the Nash engine. All the L-heads have flat top pistons and the same bore, compression was controlled by chamber size. 1953 models first appeared with the WCD 2V carb with 7.45:1 compression and rated at 100 hp. 1954 models had 8.5:1 compression and were rated at 110 hp. The source I'm using (Standard Catalog of American Motors, 1902-1987) gives the 1955 specs as back to 7.45:1 and 100 hp with the 2V. You might want to check with the Nash Car Club of America (http://www.nashcarclub.org/) on the specs and how to tell the year of the head.
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kcarlsted Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/06/2022 at 9:04pm
Farna,

That is what I have found as well in my research for compression ratio's and hp specs.

The head I bought was advertised as a '53 Statesman 2v head
But it appears to have a date casting on it that says 3-14-56 (pretty sure it's a 6, maybe a 5?)

That date was throwing me off. I'm hoping it's a 8.5:1 head. The chamber shape and size sure look just like the Alcoa aluminum 2x1v heads judging by photos. I believe those heads were 8.5:1 

I was initially thinking I could just machine the head to get it to 8.5:1, but that sounds like it might not be worth it. I assumed that they had just machined the head to achieve the difference between the '53/'55 heads and the '54 8.5:1 heads. But maybe they modified the shape of the chamber before casting.

It would be nice to have a cc volume reference of my stock '59 head before I tear it off the car.
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