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Exhaust manifold to pipe dount adapter

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amx007 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amx007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/25/2020 at 6:56am
I’m looking for 390amx 
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he sold me parts I did not get 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FSJunkie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/26/2020 at 3:26am
Yeah, the Fel-Pro 60103-1. That's what I am talking about. I bought some last week. 

I've blown out probably a dozen of them on various engines, yet not one of the sintered graphite type ones has blown out. It's enough to convince me. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1982AMCConcord Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/26/2020 at 2:31pm
Originally posted by FSJunkie FSJunkie wrote:

Yeah, the Fel-Pro 60103-1. That's what I am talking about. I bought some last week. 

I've blown out probably a dozen of them on various engines, yet not one of the sintered graphite type ones has blown out. It's enough to convince me. 

Hi everyone... I ordered the NAPA/WALKER version that was suggested. I'll find out if they work on Monday!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote electricbluesc/360 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/27/2020 at 1:53am
Originally posted by amx007 amx007 wrote:

I’m looking for 390amx 
your not him I see as u have a 1 after 
he sold me parts I did not get 


Your looking for Ryan/ 3904spd on this forum
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bbgjc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/27/2020 at 6:18am
Try looking through the Rem Flex catalog.  They make excellent gaskets.  I use the exhaust manifold to head gaskets all the time and they never leak.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 390amx1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/28/2020 at 5:59am
this is the Fel Pro 60538.  all metal.  worked great on my passage side.  didn't work well on my drivers side.  I guess its all in how the flare on the exhaust pipe is formed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1982AMCConcord Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/26/2020 at 2:14pm
Originally posted by 390amx1 390amx1 wrote:

this is the Fel Pro 60538.  all metal.  worked great on my passage side.  didn't work well on my drivers side.  I guess its all in how the flare on the exhaust pipe is formed.

390amx1... I apologise... I am not being notified of replies to any of my posts and forgot to check back to this sooner.

So what you have there is the donut necessary for the passenger side when the heat riser has been deleted. It's thicker than the standard donut that the heat riser uses when it's in place still. 

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/nickson-4449/gaskets-25077/exhaust-25082/exhaust-pipe-connector-gasket-12216/d6e175ca4cc9/nickson-exhaust-gasket/eg24105/4538350

I am not sure what to do but have been told that since I live in a Northern climate and drive my car in the late Fall and early Spring... That I should install the heat riser to help preheat my intake manifold for colder weather driving. While I do not drive the car in the snow I do drive it into the 30-40's as long as the roads haven't been salted yet.

I've also been advised that I could dial back my choke until the heat riser is installed. 

Can anyone tell me what the negative effects of not having a heat riser would be? I think I will have the heat riser installed but I need to collect the parts. 

Can anyone tell me what vendor offers the OEM style flange clamps that sandwich the gaskets into place on the flange properly?

Thanks



Edited by 1982AMCConcord - Oct/26/2020 at 2:21pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FSJunkie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/27/2020 at 2:26am
I've generally found that the difference between how these engines run with a properly functioning and installed heat damper, and no heat damper at all, is not noticeable. 

I personally try to keep heat dampers on my engines because I place my faith in original engineering, but it's not for everyone. I certainly have some engines without heat dampers and they've behaved just fine even in sub zero temperatures. Would they be better with a heat damper? Who knows. 

It's important to retighten the bolts on whatever exhaust manifold doughnut gasket you choose. Most gasket materials crush as they go through their first few heat cycles. Failing to retighten often results in leaks down the road that only get worse and can only be remedied by replacing the gasket again. I know that the Fel-Pro blue ones for instance, need retightened after each heat cycle for the first few heat cycles and slowly need retightened less and less over time. It's like you retighten them after the first ten miles, then after the first 100 miles, then after the first 1000 miles, then the first 3000 miles, and then you're usually good to go. But if you miss any one of those, the gasket blows out and leaks forever...which is why I hate them.

I much prefer my engines that do not use exhaust gaskets at all but rather use a direct metal on metal connection for the pipe flange. No gasket equals nothing to burn out, blow out, and leak. It seals from day one and it stays sealed without retightening. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 401MATCOUPE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/27/2020 at 4:55am
This is an interesting subject and I found some strange factory combinations recently. 

1.   In 1974 on they omitted the flat gasket between the heat riser valve and the exhaust manifold.   

2.  I have had many customer request to remove the gaskets due to blown gasket issues, but the key is.....you have to resurface the manifold completely flat to get effective area between the exhaust manifold and the heat riser.....

3.  If you are starting from scratch, I have NEVER had issue with removing the heat riser valve.  I had a set of NOS Trendetter head pipes years ago and they were made to have the heat riser removed....

4.  Cars that infrequently driven commonly have frozen or leaking heat riser valves, mostly dead stock cars.   My solve for this is to gut out the flapper , weld the holes in heat riser closed.  Resuraface the ralve flat on each side.  I drove my 69 AMX this way for 10+ years every day (40K miles) NEVER had a issue with leaking or drive ability year round from -30F to +110F.....dead stock 343 4V, 4 speed car.

5.  Just like blocking of the carb cross over heat in the intake/heads, the heat riser delete/flapper removal has the same effect.......heck the factory made a Heat Riser Blocking Intake Gasket as a Group 19 part.

Hope this helps.
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