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engine died today.... |
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bigbad69
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/02/2007 Location: Ottawa, Ont. Status: Offline Points: 6685 |
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69 Javelin SST BBO 390 T10
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bikerfox
Moderator Group Joined: Aug/02/2009 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 4473 |
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PHAT--yes, the '70 model is a beeatch! Just curious--what was your "back feed" situation?
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1969 Rebel SST (1970-1987)
1968 AMX (2005-2011) 1969 SC/Rambler (2011-2019) 1970 Javelin (2019 to ?)"Jane" |
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PHAT69AMX
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/07/2007 Location: West Virginia Status: Offline Points: 5926 |
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bigbad69 - gotta agree and go along with it seems that would run down the battery, yes,
only reporting on what appears to be shown in the 1969 TSM Wiring Schematic, which have errors. There were at least 3 versions of AMC Head Light Buzzers, the early one as in the schematic had only 2-wires. Following versions had 3-wires and 4-wires, maybe changes were made due to that?
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tomj
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7553 |
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OK -- just talked to Steve at length, we traced out wiring to to the relay, it's all correct. The issue is the signal/power source that turns the relay on ("pin 86") in his car is a bit convoluted, but eventually ends at a pair of AMC-factory-harness wires, both yellow, butt-spliced together and to the wire to pin 86.
Buck is correct, and I was wrong -- Steve's car needs the diode fix to stop the run-on. One of those yellow wires goes to the starter solenoid "I" terminal, fed by the pink resistance wire, and that's fine. The other yellow wire is the one to the alternator voltage regulator. I personally haven't done/don't know about the diode fix, but y'all here know about it, so I'll beg off here. Does it go in the orange/no tracer wire between alt and regulator? Almost an aside, but WTF is ignition (coil +) power fed to the voltage regulator in the first place?! Is that "sense", that tells the alternator to operate? I thought that was done by the idiot light. It was on earlier cars, at least, and sometimes a resistor in parallel with that lamp to cover the case of a burned-out lamp (which killed charging on early cars, duh). Why the parking brake light drops power to the coil is a mystery to me. Headlights don't do it. Weird. |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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bigbad69
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/02/2007 Location: Ottawa, Ont. Status: Offline Points: 6685 |
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Coil power is fed from the ignition switch through the resistance wire to the solenoid (not the regulator) and on to the coil. The solenoid provides full 12V only when the key is in "start". Otherwise, power is stepped down through the resistance wire.
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69 Javelin SST BBO 390 T10
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bikerfox
Moderator Group Joined: Aug/02/2009 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 4473 |
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A HUGE thanks to Tom J., my buddy to the north, for spending time with me, troubleshooting and verifying the circuits. Bucks AMX--just wanted to verify you bought a 1A 100V diode. Have more room near the alt for the diode, rather than the harness.
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1969 Rebel SST (1970-1987)
1968 AMX (2005-2011) 1969 SC/Rambler (2011-2019) 1970 Javelin (2019 to ?)"Jane" |
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PHAT69AMX
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/07/2007 Location: West Virginia Status: Offline Points: 5926 |
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tomj - lmao.... it's a convoluted mess ain't it man, make a fella pull his hair out - lmao
100V / 1A DIODE it says in the MSD 6 Box instructions Of course it fails to specifically identify the Diode further back where it shows were to put it Edited by PHAT69AMX - Nov/29/2021 at 6:14pm |
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Bucks AMX
AMC Apprentice Joined: Oct/18/2015 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 88 |
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Yes I used a 1A 100V diode.
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1970 AMX 390 4spd Golden Lime
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PHAT69AMX
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/07/2007 Location: West Virginia Status: Offline Points: 5926 |
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bikerfox - unsure exactly what the "back feed" actually was or what did it for sure.
Disconnecting the 1968 2-Wire Headlight Buzzer fixed the issue. Still used the stand-alone E-Brake Light & Harness as a "hidden" in-dash Shift Light. Ran MSD 6 Box, Delco type Distributor, UniLite Conversion, Stock Tachometer, Motorola Alternator. Required both a Dual Mopar Ballast Resistor & a Single Ballast Resistor per MSD instructions to make the stock tachometer work and to prevent engine run-on. Used no Diode. Use of UniLite results in MSD 6 being "White Wire Triggered", that makes a difference as to what works. Further study of the AMC Schematics, some info in my previous post is incorrect. Fuse Panel is rotated in all different orientations between in the car, in the Elec Chapter, & in the Schematic. Had me dizzy But the E-Brake & Buzzer ARE NOT HOT with the Ignition "OFF" so THANK YOU to who it was that pointed that out. If I can, will try and find & take the time & go back and edit - fix previous incorrect posts... I would suggest you consider removing your Ignition Switch and Testing it per the TSM procedure, but I reckon maybe that is no where near as easy to do in a 1970 as it is in a 1969 model. If something gets whacko in the Ignition Switch internal contacts it can cause issues... Maybe at least try spraying some WD-40 into it and working it in an attempt to clean it, and / or remove or mitigate some or any contact surface oxidation being as it's 50 years old... Peace
Edited by PHAT69AMX - Dec/01/2021 at 8:45am |
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bikerfox
Moderator Group Joined: Aug/02/2009 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 4473 |
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Thanks for your thoughts, Phat. The diode will be here tomorrow and I'm going to give it a try, as it'll be simply clip-leaded into the line. Easy peazy.....you read my mind--next stop, the ignition switch "zone" (play on the TW show). Already have a new one and ready to try it out. Yes, it seems like everything electrical is more diffi- cult on a '70 than with a '68-'9, esp. when it comes to dash issues. I'll report back as soon as the diode is clipped in.
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1969 Rebel SST (1970-1987)
1968 AMX (2005-2011) 1969 SC/Rambler (2011-2019) 1970 Javelin (2019 to ?)"Jane" |
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