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Engine Break In Oil ? |
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flejl 
AMC Addicted 
Joined: Nov/15/2021 Location: PA Status: Offline Points: 531 |
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 Topic: Engine Break In Oil ?Posted: Nov/19/2023 at 5:31pm |
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I finally MAY have the time to get the engine in my 1971 Javelin ready to fire up.
The car was last run by the original owner and parked in 1995, the stored in a barn and gathered dust and mouse poop. I have been told I should use a high zinc content oil and treat the first fire up like a I am breaking in a new engine. I have already checked the old engine oil, pulled the valve covers and spark plugs, and it appears the engine is clean inside and healthy based upon the visuals so far. I am looking for recommendations for the oil I use to fire up the engine since I understand most modern engine oils lack enough zinc for older engines. I found the below reference chart that includes several oils and zinc contents. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank You |
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mbwicz
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Joined: Feb/20/2019 Location: Buffalo, NY Status: Offline Points: 2221 |
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Posted: Nov/19/2023 at 7:09pm |
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I'm running Valvoline VR-1 10W-30. Its a mineral oil that has additives for older engines and seems to test well by aftermarket people (like 540 Rat).
Others have recommended Joe Gibbs break in oil. I don't have any experience with this. Are you starting the car in a warm garage? If not, you may want to consider a synthetic. They flow better in cold temperatures. Amsoil and quaker state may be good choices. There are some here that recommend Baldwin filters, I believe its a B9 for the AMC engines. Because the engine has sat for so long, I'd recommend that you prime the oil system before firing the engine for the first time. You may also want to install an oil pressure gage, if one isn't in the factory gage systems. There are lots of guys here with more experience than I. Feel free to ask more questions. Mike |
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1970 AMX, one step forward, one step back. Both steps cost time and money.
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ccowx
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Joined: Nov/03/2010 Location: Yukon Status: Online Points: 3633 |
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Posted: Nov/19/2023 at 9:55pm |
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You should be fine with most any reasonable oil. Your cam is already broken in and so is the rest of the motor. As MBwicz metnions, probably the best thing you can do is pre-oil the engine before the first start up. Remove the distributor and put in an old distributor or see if anyone near by has a pre-oiler and spin it with a drill until the pressure comes up. At that point you should be good to go. You might consider some sort of high detergent oil or a lighter oil to flush it all out and then give it another change after a few miles. You could also use that opportunity to check the filter for metal bits. Overall, there should not be any issue with the metal parts, as long as they aren't rusted, nothing is hurt by sitting.
On the other hand, one thing you might want to consider is to pull off a valve cover and check the valve seals. They tend to dry out and crack over time and then they end up clogging the drain back holes in the heads and elsewhere in the engine. In fact, it might not hurt to just change them before you even start just on general principal. In general you can expect to find a few leaks. A dry engine can have the rear main seal or the water pump gaskets let go fairly soon after start up. Check the valve seals before fire up so you don't have plugged drain back holes and then check the engine again to see if it has sprung any leaks in a few hundred miles. Chris
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Scrappy
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Joined: Jun/26/2019 Location: Alpharetta, GA Status: Offline Points: 263 |
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Posted: Nov/20/2023 at 6:06am |
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I used Driven Racing (formerly known as Joe Gibbs) break-in oil when I revived the 401 in my Spirit, selecting the viscosity after consulting with one of their techs. They have more than just straight 30 available.
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White70JavelinSST
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Posted: Nov/20/2023 at 10:02am |
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I've read several posts NOT recommending synthetic lubricant for old engines.
I've read several recommendations for Amsoil. I don't use full synthetic oil in the White70JavelinSST. I have been using Valvoline Premium Blue One Solution 15w-40 diesel engine oil for at least 5 years. Tractor Supply sells it for $19.95 for one gallon. It's also available in 10w-30 Priming the engine is a good thing, and easy to do with a converted distributor. Those old delco distributors aren't good for much more than a priming tool anyway. I use Baldwin B9 filters. Using a zddp additive if not using a lubricant with zinc is good insurance. That stuff isn't very expensive either. Good luck with getting that sleepy engine alive again.
Let us know how it works out. Edited by White70JavelinSST - Nov/21/2023 at 11:53am |
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70 Javelin SST, second owner, purchased 1972
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farna
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Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 21273 |
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Posted: Nov/21/2023 at 7:01am |
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There is really no reason to not use synthetic oil even in an old engine. The only possible reason is that synthetics typically clean the insides of the engine better and that can sometimes lead to some minor leaks due to sludge being cleaned out. They may also be thinner initially and can clean the rings out, causing a little more oil burning and maybe a slight drop in compression. All of those things really just mean that the sludge in the engine was masking issues that really should be taken care of, but the engine would have had a little more power and/or gone a few thousand more miles before it needed rebuilding. As noted, unless you have a big cam with high pressure valve springs you can run any oil in it. The threshold for valve springs is around 310# per inch. Under that is fine with regular oil, over needs a high pressure additive. NO AMC stock springs are over 300# per inch, with the possible exception of the SS/AMX engines. It won't hurt to run a high zinc oil or a zinc additive, but it's not necessary. My engine is 13 years old (4.0L, but still a flat tappet cam) with Mopar Performance valve springs and cam (just under 300# per inch) and only had break-in additive when started and in the first oil change. Technically it's only needed in the first oil in the engine for starting (which I ran 500-600 miles) and not after, but I always put it in the first long term change just to be safe. After that regular synthetic oil (or at least synthetic blend). When I run a full synthetic I usually change the oil filter and top off at 4000 miles, then a full change the next time. I check it regularly and if it looked dirty I'd change earlier. Running EFI I haven't had to do that though. When running a blend I do a complete change every 5K just like the Jeep owners manual says, or every other year if I haven't put that many miles on it (same with the filter change/top off with synthetic).
Edited by farna - Nov/21/2023 at 7:03am |
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Frank Swygert
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JeepCJ360
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Joined: Sep/08/2023 Location: VA MD Status: Offline Points: 384 |
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Posted: Nov/21/2023 at 7:27am |
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One issue I've had from engines coming out of super lengthy storage is the wrist pins being super stiff. Both times I've had really long storage engines - they were eventually taken apart for rebuild and the wrist pins were just so stiff. Fogging inside a cylinder so the top rings have something to go off is easy but the piston pins that have dripped dry for years can only come to life after it fires up and oil makes it up the rod.
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BU1
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Posted: Nov/21/2023 at 8:53am |
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This isn't meant to advocate for using a zinc additive with Diesel oil is it?? Maybe clarify the post to read to use an additive only if a persons choice of oil is low in zinc.
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AMO #2726
#1 1968 AMX Rally Green 343 4spd since 1975 #02642 #2 1968 AMX Rally Green 290 4spd since 2019 #02959 |
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White70JavelinSST
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Posted: Nov/21/2023 at 11:55am |
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I reworded it a bit. Reads better. Although using an additive with zinc if using a lubricant with zinc wouldn't be harmful, it's not needed.
Edited by White70JavelinSST - Nov/21/2023 at 11:59am |
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70 Javelin SST, second owner, purchased 1972
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990V8
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Joined: Oct/07/2016 Location: Gloucestershire Status: Offline Points: 873 |
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Posted: Nov/22/2023 at 5:50am |
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If the engine should run a 10/30, then Lucas Hotrod and Classic has good zinc. I always run high zinc oil in my flat-tappet engines. It may not be essential, but compared to the harm that the wrong oil could do, why not...
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63 Canadian Ambo 990 V8 327
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White70JavelinSST wrote: