Donohue Spoiler repairs

I have repaired two spoilers with exactly the same issues. Egads!!!

The first spoiler was really bad, so I simply cut off what was left of the (fiberglass) mounting studs (removed the metal screw first)on the underside of the spoiler. Next I obtained a fiberglass header panel, I removed from a wrecked car at a pick-u-parts yard. I cut off the entire fiberglass with metal screw stud area to use as a replacement on my Javelin spoiler.  I simply cut everything down on the inside of my spoiler, measured, trail fit and then Fiberglassed the mounts to the spoiler.  I did misjudge on one stud and had to add two washes to the metal screw for spacing when I mounted the spoiler on my Javelin. I also had to repair the entire horizontal lower area of the spoiler and I made the wing areas that overlap the 1/4 panels solid. It looks a lot nicer when the trunk lid is up

Very time consuming, but relative cheap in price if you do your own fiberglass work.  I had one clear advantage, the decklid was a virgin with no previous spoiler. So any errors on stud location(s) was not an issue as I had to drill new holes anyway. 

The second spoiler I repaired the existing fiberglass mounting studs. I cut off the entire studs, made a hollow tube out of cardboard, prepped the old stud base in preparation to add new fiberglass. I used fiberglass mesh, stuffed the tube with wet fiberglass mesh, made sure the old spoiler stud base was very well coated with resin, added some fiberglass mesh and placed the tube filled with fresh fiberglass materials over the stud base. I made sure that I took measurements of the top of the stud base prior to cutting off and when I added the new fiberglass, ( in the cardboard tub) I measured to make sure the tube was positioned as needed. 

After I let this sit for two days, I cut off the carboard, cleaned up the outer diameter appearance of the new stud & fiber-glassed the base of the stud area again and went wider to make sure my stud would not break off. Once all the fiberglass work was finished and dry I measured for proper height (underside of spoiler to flat spot of the stud) ground down the fiberglass to make/add the flat shoulder area for the metal screw location to be installed. I drilled the new fiberglass stud mount and used a tap to match the course screw pattern of the metal screw. I trial fitted the metal screw & made very, very sure that I did not over tighten. I think I used 12 psi on a torque wrench. 

Spoiler went right back on, in the same holes as it was supposed too!

Unfortunately, I do not have any photos to share. 

Hope that helps!