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cooling at high rpm ?

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matty 401 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote matty 401 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/06/2021 at 5:42am
i put the engine together in 2017  but it sits a lot more then it is driven  solid drive 7 blade flex  when i was trying to get my friend to roll race at about 55 after i lifter  the temp came down to about 186  so maybe new water pump ?   it was new in 2017  but just a stock replacement 
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Heavy 488 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Heavy 488 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/06/2021 at 6:47am
Unless  it's leaking, the water pump is just fine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Steve_P Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/06/2021 at 10:37am
you are fine, stop worrying, don't do a thing.  Water temp should be a minimum of 180F.  Modern vehicles typically run 190-200F operating.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/06/2021 at 10:45am
Originally posted by Heavy 488 Heavy 488 wrote:

He did say it's an aluminum 3 row so I don't believe it's 30 or 40 years old


There's good ones and there's bad ones of those aluminum radiators, too.... Some don't flow coolant well, some don't flow AIR well. I've seen some crappy ones. 

Pressure cap bad causes over-heating. 


I use a lot of distilled water for my plating processes so always have 10 or so gallons of it around. Also use a lot of "purified drinking water" for the coffee maker - for almost 2 years now there's been NO build-up in that machine. 
Our water isn't acidic - it's the opposite problem. 
Anyway, I use distilled in my SX4 - and last change the coolant came out looking almost as good as it did going in last time. I keep a perfect 50/50 mix as much as is possible, pure water, etc. 
We are on a well so no chlorine issues here. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/06/2021 at 10:56am
You may want to consider a stock clutch fan or new locking clutch fan. Besides not drawing as much HP, it will not block air flow at highway RPMs. That and the flex fan detonation issues, ripping through rads/hoods...
Not a fan of flex fans LOL!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mopar_guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/06/2021 at 11:15am
Originally posted by Trader Trader wrote:

You may want to consider a stock clutch fan or new locking clutch fan. Besides not drawing as much HP, it will not block air flow at highway RPMs. That and the flex fan detonation issues, ripping through rads/hoods...
Not a fan of flex fans LOL!

X2! I suspect the fan is your problem. Flex fans are cr@p IMO.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Heavy 488 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/06/2021 at 11:39am
I switched out my stock flex to a later thermal clutch since Ive already seen a stock blade flex toss a blade into a hood.  If you're a paranoia stricken individual, then a thermal clutch may not be the answer. They start to engage around 170 degrees and never fully " lockup" unless the clutch took a dirtnap and seized.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/06/2021 at 11:54am
Originally posted by Heavy 488 Heavy 488 wrote:

I switched out my stock flex to a later thermal clutch since Ive already seen a stock blade flex toss a blade into a hood.  If you're a paranoia stricken individual, then a thermal clutch may not be the answer. They start to engage around 170 degrees and never fully " lockup" unless the clutch took a dirtnap and seized.


I checked my original fan when disassembling my car. I noticed one blade was cracking at the front of the mounting flange. Because the car was a high milage daily driver, and never used performance wise, the long term stress eventually made a blade compromised.

Even though the fan looked fine while mounted, it was through manipulation of flexing the blades, the crack became apparent.

If daily driver, not a weekend driver... obtain a new replacement questioning long term dependability.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amcenthusiast Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/06/2021 at 9:09pm
First thing, IMO, eliminate the posibility of clogged radiator.

-The new school aluminum radiators weigh 7 lbs less and cool much better.

(how else to remove 7 lbs from front of car?)

-more rows is not necessarily better -more rows can impede air flow

The new school two row units have large 1 inch wide tubes. and they're thinner to allow more air flow.

If the new rad doesn't do it...

Time to bring out the old Chilton's manual...

(whats more expensive? $20 manual or fried 401?)

Don't like saying it but you could be having a head gasket seal issue.

Speed Daddy 2 row aluminum for about $150


Edited by amcenthusiast - Jul/06/2021 at 9:11pm
443 XRV8 Gremlin YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=2DmFOKRuzUc
XRV8 Race Parts website: http://amcramblermarlin.1colony.com/
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amcenthusiast View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amcenthusiast Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/06/2021 at 9:25pm
Originally posted by Heavy 488 Heavy 488 wrote:

Unless  it's leaking, the water pump is just fine.

Correct
443 XRV8 Gremlin YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=2DmFOKRuzUc
XRV8 Race Parts website: http://amcramblermarlin.1colony.com/
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