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cooling at high rpm ? |
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PHAT69AMX
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/07/2007 Location: West Virginia Status: Offline Points: 5926 |
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Lean Mixture and/or late timing can = HOT
What carburetor? Running Vacuum Advance? Which Can? What's the Advance Curve? |
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FSJunkie
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/09/2011 Location: Flagstaff, AZ Status: Offline Points: 4742 |
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I don't even see what you are worried about.
Anything from 190 to 220 degrees is a normal day in my book. I don't even bat an eye at those readings. I get concerned when an engine hits 230 and keeps climbing.
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1955 Packard
1966 Marlin 1972 Wagoneer 1973 Ambassador 1977 Hornet 1982 Concord D/L 1984 Eagle Limited |
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BDCVG
AMC Addicted Joined: Dec/19/2007 Location: Endless Mtns. Status: Offline Points: 993 |
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Fan does nothing above 30 miles an hour.
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1970 AMX 390 5 spd full Control Freaks front and rear suspension
2014 E63 AMG-S wagon 1965 Austin-Healey 3000 MK III |
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Heavy 488
AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/27/2019 Location: In the Status: Offline Points: 3557 |
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Yup, even factory later model fans are programmed to turn off between 30 and 35 because they serve no purpose. If you can stay below 200, it ain't broke. |
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Trader
AMC Addicted Joined: May/15/2018 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 6909 |
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BDCVG is correct on the speed. What's in front of the grill?
Reminiscing - 1979 the new wife and I off to our honeymoon and her 68 Javelin is overheating. Mind is of course on other things. Pulled over and they had decorated the car, including a "Just Married" sign in front of the grill. The high flow thermostat would have more effect at highway speed. Though as others have stated, don't think there is a problem unless as stated, your timing is retarded at cruising speeds causing more heat.
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Hurst390
AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/20/2008 Location: secret Status: Offline Points: 5822 |
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High rpm is maintaining 6-7k rpm. if you need that info let me know.
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SC/Hurst Rambler
11.62 120 100% Street Legal |
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Had the same problem with one of my cars. FINE in town, good putzing around at 45-50 even. But take it on the interstate and hit 65 and watch the temp gauge climb and climb and climb.
A 40 year old radiator was the issue. New radiator (EXACT COPY of the original in EVERY way, materials, shape and size - like a NOS AMC radiator) fixed it. It wasn't allowing enough coolant to pass through the tubes to cool. Don't bother looking in the cap opening - mine looked nice inside, I didn't even see lime or calcium build-up. It LOOKED clean. But the proof was in the fact that replacing it with an identical radiator totally resolved the issue to the point that in cold weather it wouldn't even hit the lower edge of green - so it showed me another issue - the thermostat was opening too much too soon and now with a good radiator, the thing ran cold. So I put a 192 stat in it and it's right at the bottom of the green almost all the time and on the low side of the middle on a 95 degree day with AC on. Buzzman said it right - thermostat sets MINIMUM operating temperature and has nothing to do with the max! Not a thing. The only way a stat causes overheating is if it's BAD. These should be running about a 190 or so stat. MINIMUM, not maximum, temp is set by the thermostat.
Everyone talks complicated stuff - don't worry about mixture, timing, etc. until you cover the BASICS. and unfortunately everyone thinks AIR - that's ONE flow to watch for but seldom is the cause in a car that's mostly stock because remember, these did fine in the 60s and 70s but this is 50 years later - why don't people think of AGE? Air - fine, you do need air flow, but you need COOLANT flow and if your radiator is over 30 years old it's almost negligence to not consider it's probably pretty gunky at the bottom half. THREE of my AMC cars heat issues were 100% totally resolved with CLEAN radiators. My brother's 69 - with a clean radiator and a GOOD cap - his cap leaked pressure. Initially I simply put a new 14 pound cap on the car and it behaved a lot better, but again, new clean radiator resolved all other heating issues. I was really concerned first time I put a digital set of gauges in my vehicle - YIKES! 120! then I remembered - 50/50 mix plus pressure and it won't boil until OVER 260! My truck ran 230 much of the way back from Colorado Springs last month. Another guy I know has one and his ran 240 pulling a trailer. That's the top side for me - in my mind, but still not going to boil. AMC did testing and I have a TSB on it somewhere - showing the different flow rates of pure water vs 50-50 mix water and coolant vs. pure coolant. The most, the highest flow rates by gallons per minute went to the 50/50 mix. Their point - besides protecting the water pump and preventing cavitation of the timing cover, the mix cause a higher coolant flow, and better cooling. But that is negated with a 40 year old radiator. Anyone running a 40 year old radiator and thinking "I looked and it seems clean" is not seeing the bus about to hit them. Get it professionally cleaned - like I did. Original cooling systems, no fancy fans, no fancy this or that and my cars run cool, including my 73 377 HP 360 that's been abused. Factory radiator factory shroud, etc. - it's just fine. |
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Heavy 488
AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/27/2019 Location: In the Status: Offline Points: 3557 |
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He did say it's an aluminum 3 row so I don't believe it's 30 or 40 years old
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troutwilly
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/14/2007 Location: Carriere, MS Status: Offline Points: 994 |
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A lot of good things suggested to check out. I'm on the "get a fan shroud" side. Also, how is the fan operated....direct/solid or via a fan clutch? If its a fan clutch maybe it isn't working properly. Just another thing to check.
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Bill O.
70 AMX |
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Trader
AMC Addicted Joined: May/15/2018 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 6909 |
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Also, consider the water used with your glycol.
Many will state that their tap water is good. Good tap water for humans has free chlorine that is usually bonded with a metal, like sodium or calcium. May or any not be good for humans - definitely not good for an engine cooling system. Chlorine is acidic. With heat, metals separate from the chlorine to form other compounds, like calcium carbonite that precipitates out in the radiator cooling passages. Also any free flow metals will produce electrolysis. Your aluminum timing cover gets eroded to your engine block or other coolant system parts, Distilled water is cheap and is H2O. The less minerals/free metals/acids in the coolant system, the longer it will last.
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