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Complt Brak syst rebuild ACHIEVED |
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1958 rambler super 
AMC Addicted 
Joined: Dec/10/2020 Location: Victoria BC can Status: Offline Points: 1201 |
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 Posted: Oct/23/2022 at 1:59pm |
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73hornut- "the way you bent the hard line yiu will never get the air out" your probably talking about the 5/16 size coming from the MC... how would I never get the air out? Shouldn't press g the pedal enough do the trick?
Ok, yesterday I found out I was calling it a compression fitting and I was wrong to use that term, I now know its called flare and not compression. All the flares leaked, and I was using a real cheap flare tool, I geuss that's my other mistake, the stores I went to yesterday didn't have any good ones so I'll try online. About the junction blocks, here is a pic of the damage to the seats where the flare sits when the nut is tightened , I wouldn't think what you suggest would work to remove those as possible problems. Also, here is a pic of the old soft lines compared to the new soft lines, the brand is raybestos, and the counter person looked through his book to see what other amcs used a soft line, went and showed it to me, I looked at it, but didn't see the tiny bit of difference at the end that interfaces with the seat inside the wheel cylinders, I think this is why they leaked... Would it be a bad idea to use new old stock brake lines if I found them? After all these years would the material be degraded and unfit to use? Galvins has them, and also the five port junction block, but they are in the process of moving and unavailable amc lives has some for the ambassador and marlin for various years of the 1960's, and those ends look alot more identical then the ones in this pic I took I think I'll buy just one and see when I have it in hand...(just orders it, should be in hand in a few weeks) Here is a pic of the seats inside the wheel cylinders...    Edited by 1958 rambler super - Oct/23/2022 at 4:30pm |
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rgsauger
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Joined: Aug/17/2014 Location: Houston,TX Status: Offline Points: 311 |
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Posted: Oct/23/2022 at 9:41pm |
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Copper nickel brake line tubing is a dream to run and flare! Will never use anything else again. Blue Point, same as snap on, makes a nice flare tool kit. Very affordable.
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sweatlock
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Joined: Apr/28/2014 Location: Largo, FL Status: Offline Points: 3313 |
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Posted: Oct/24/2022 at 7:10am |
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The factory lines are steel. What’s the PSI for brake lines? I dunno, but I personally wouldn’t use a copper-nickel alloy for brake lines, there’s a reason why OEM’s don’t.
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Trader
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Joined: May/15/2018 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 6881 |
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Posted: Oct/24/2022 at 7:39am |
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An automotive brake system is typically 800 to 2000 PSI operating pressures.
Brake line material, 4:1 safety factor by design, so burst pressure is typically 4x these values: SS is good to 7000 PSI Steel is good to 5800 PSI Copper Nickel is 4550 PSI OEM do not use Copper Nickel or SS do to cost vs steel in mass production. There should be no concern using Copper Nickel brake line material. My trades tests, we bent tubing on a fixed planning board and ran copper tubing, 3000 PSI and no leaks was the benchmark for a pass. 6000 to 7000 PSI is when you would see the first burst tube. |
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mstrcrftr
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Joined: Jul/12/2010 Location: houston Status: Offline Points: 2066 |
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Posted: Oct/24/2022 at 7:45am |
X2
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sweatlock
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Joined: Apr/28/2014 Location: Largo, FL Status: Offline Points: 3313 |
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Posted: Oct/24/2022 at 8:10am |
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There’s still a reduction in the safety margin. I would personally never use the stuff. Edited by sweatlock - Oct/24/2022 at 8:12am |
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farna
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Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676 |
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Posted: Oct/24/2022 at 8:17am |
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Ddouble flares are hard to make on steel line. I'd get the copper-nickel if I really wanted to do my own. A GOOD high quality flaring tool is a must! Even then double flares are tough. I just get pre-made lines. They are in 6" increments up to 60" and already have double flares on both ends. Unless you simply have to have it exact a small S bend in a line a couple inches too long makes it just right.
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Frank Swygert
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Trader
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Joined: May/15/2018 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 6881 |
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Posted: Oct/24/2022 at 8:27am |
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Respectfully disagree.
Safety margin is reduced, but well within design specifications - that we can agree on. Copper-Nickel has many advantages over steel: It does not corrode outside, does not corrode inside, easy to bend, easy to flare, being softer - better at sealing. It's your car so your choice of how to build it. Go to any modern custom hot rod shop and they will be using Copper Nickel - without doubt.
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tufcj
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Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/10/2007 Location: Watkins, CO Status: Offline Points: 4086 |
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Posted: Oct/24/2022 at 9:44am |
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I bought this flaring tool many years ago (it used to be under $200), I've done steel, copper/nickle, and stainless with it. I've done fuel line up to 3/8". It is nearly foolproof if you take your time. I also bought the turret for 37 degree so I can do AN fittings. It's paid for itself in time saved. Bob tufcj
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69 AMX
74 Javelin AMX 67 Rogue If you need a tool and don't buy it... you'll eventually pay for it... and not have it. Henry Ford |
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roadventure
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Joined: May/23/2020 Location: Delaware Status: Offline Points: 278 |
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Posted: Oct/24/2022 at 2:42pm |
Steve, Why do you state "do not use SST lines"? I had used stainless steel tubing exclusively at work when making up lines for hydraulic systems. Stainless steel was a requirement due to the use of water-glycol hydraulic fluids being used. The stainless tubing was less forgiving than copper, aluminum or plain steel but never seemed to be a problem when using the proper tools to bend and flare. dave
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