Your donations help keep this valuable resource free and growing. Thank you.
|
clarification on starter wiring diagram |
Post Reply | Page 123> |
Author | |
bikerfox
Moderator Group Joined: Aug/02/2009 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 4473 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: Aug/06/2019 at 10:24pm |
I believe Tony Sanchez provided this diagram some time ago. So, the + bat. cable runs to the "A" junction. Is there a second cable running from the "A" junction to the batt. terminal on starter solenoid? Why? Cause it looks like there is one. The "B" wire running to the "S" on the starter solenoid--is that the 10 ga. wire? TIA.
Edited by bikerfox - Aug/07/2019 at 12:45am |
|
1969 Rebel SST (1970-1987)
1968 AMX (2005-2011) 1969 SC/Rambler (2011-2019) 1970 Javelin (2019 to ?)"Jane" |
|
motorhead_1
AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/16/2014 Location: AZ Status: Offline Points: 1007 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
10ga will be fine for s terminal. i used that wiring up my robb mc starter
|
|
69 SC/Rambler tribute 401/th400, 68 Rebel SST LSA, 66 F100 460/c6, 88 Merkur Xr4Ti, 71 Jaguar XJ6 LS1, 08 Supercharged Tundra
|
|
bikerfox
Moderator Group Joined: Aug/02/2009 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 4473 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Thanks, Motorhead. Still would like an answer to the following question:
So, the + bat. cable runs to the "A" junction. Is there a second cable running from the "A" junction to the batt. terminal on starter solenoid? Why? Cause it looks like there is one. |
|
1969 Rebel SST (1970-1987)
1968 AMX (2005-2011) 1969 SC/Rambler (2011-2019) 1970 Javelin (2019 to ?)"Jane" |
|
Mopar_guy
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jun/07/2009 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 4837 |
Post Options
Thanks(1)
|
So, the + bat. cable runs to the "A" junction. Is
there a second cable running from the "A" junction to the batt.
terminal on starter solenoid? Why? Cause it looks like there is one. Yes. The big battery cable (red line) runs to the A junction and then continues (with another cable) to the battery lug on the solenoid. That's why that is marked with red in the diagram. The way it works using the stock starter relay is when you turn the key to start, that relay will still work but instead of it connecting the battery cables to have the starter motor run, it now activates the solenoid on the new starter. That's why you're essentially bypassing the relay by having the big cables on one side of the relay. If this paragraph confuses you, just ignore it. I was trying to help you to understand how it works so if you have problems, you can figure it out.
|
|
"Hemilina" My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin |
|
billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
Post Options
Thanks(1)
|
10 gauge is overkill for the S terminal IMO.
All you are doing is energizing the coil inside. There's no load at all except for that coil and the load is small. Look at the stock wiring of a GM or Chrysler with a solenoid on the starter - or the wire going to the solenoid in a 4.0 liter engine which has a starter solenoid that would have a similar draw - what gauge is that? 14 maybe Why not use something more manageable? The coil in the starter's solenoid doesn't take a huge draw either - more than the fender mounted but still..... it's only as couple feet from the fender solenoid. You need to figure distance as well as load. Overkill is fine but then you deal with really large stiff wires in a tight spot at the starter. Cable from Battery + to A on ORIGINAL solenoid on fender, then from that A terminal on down to the starter's battery terminal. In this case A is simply a way to connect battery to starter's batt terminal AND when energized by the S wire, the fender mounted device supplies the power to energize the solenoid on the starter. You are using the original solenoid as a junction AND using it to be a relay to the S terminal on the starter so you don't have to run your ignition switch S wire all the way down to the starter. You can leave your original ignition switch to S terminal wiring alone and simply use that fender mounted solenoid/relay as a relay. I would wire it like that picture. It allows you to keep your STOCK wiring for the most part and simply run the wires to the starter as shown in your picture above. I would make one change if it was possible and easy - I'd run battery directly to starter and then from starter up to the fender mounted solenoid A terminal. That keeps the run to the starter a bit shorter BUT - and this is up to YOU - it means TWO BIG cables at the starter's battery terminal. SO if that is a problem, then do like the picture. IF you have space run battery to starter first, then continue up to the fender solenoid. That means two big cables up there - however, you don't need as bit a cable from the starter up to the solenoid A terminal that way because ONLY THE CAR's LOAD would be fed from that so you could use a much smaller cable from the starter. In it was me - I'd run trunk battery big cable to starter BATT stud. I'd run a smaller cable from starter BATT stud up to solenoid on fender A terminal and have it big enough to run the CAR's systems and CHARGING system but you greatly shorted the battery to starter connection. The pic above assumes front mounted battery, IMO. |
|
billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
Post Options
Thanks(1)
|
Bring it here - we'll wire it up nice - you've seen what I've done in electric stuff - we can make it pretty AND so it will handle the load and keep it simple.
In other words, better than my own cars. We can even make a map of where things go, the wire sizes and colors and where connection points are. I had to do that with my Eagle and thank goodness I did. Can't look that car up in any book! It takes two books and my diagrams to do it. |
|
Heavy 488
AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/27/2019 Location: In the Status: Offline Points: 3557 |
Post Options
Thanks(1)
|
True on the wiring update. You're only looking at possibly 4 amp intermittent draw from a solenoid. The actual wire used in winding the coil itself isn't that big.
|
|
bikerfox
Moderator Group Joined: Aug/02/2009 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 4473 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Thanks Mopar guy and Bill for your assistance. Tony's diagram now makes sense to me. Bill--I like your idea of running the trunk batt + cable to starter BATT stud. That's about 15 feet. What gauge wire do you recommend? The PO used 2/0 gauge. Smaller cable from starter BATT stud up to solenoid on fender A terminal--what gauge wire do you recommend? Given this trunk to starter cable setup, what about the "S" terminal on starter solenoid--does it still connect to "B" side of fender starter relay? Any recommendations for a supplier of these wires? I've been told to use welder wire to run the battery + cable; would like to buy complete units instead of making my own.... Bill--I would LOVE to visit you in Iowa with my car! But, that's a LONG, LONG way, my friend....around 1,700 miles one way!
|
|
1969 Rebel SST (1970-1987)
1968 AMX (2005-2011) 1969 SC/Rambler (2011-2019) 1970 Javelin (2019 to ?)"Jane" |
|
billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
The simple bit first - YES to run wire from the S terminal on the STARTER SOLENOID up to the B side of the original fender-mounted solenoid. This way you are using it like a RELAY.
Your ignition switch will still be wired to S on the original - then when the original is energized it connects your A terminal to the B terminal and that energizes the S on the STARTER itself. This way you don't have to move your original ignition switch start wire/feed down to the starter. You leave it alone - which is a good thing, IMO, and use the original fender-mounted solenoid/relay simply as a junction block for the battery cable to car's load and as a relay for the START circuit. I've not checked the draw of a typical starter solenoid (the starter mounted type, but hear it's 8-10 amps while the "ford type" fender solenoid is no more than 5 amps. So from B side to S on starter you could easily use 14 gauge which will carry 15 amps up to 6 feet or so. If the starter-mounted solenoid took 10 amps, and it's only 3 feet from the fender relay - 14 would be more than enough for that starter's solenoid. It's half of 6 feet and much less than 15 amps. Now this part - >>Smaller cable from starter BATT stud up to solenoid on fender A terminal--what gauge wire do you recommend?<< What size alternator do you run? You will be keeping the battery topped off via alternator through this wire AND running the car's accessories like lights, radio, wipers, and other fun stuff through this. 10 gauge will handle 70 amps at about 4 feet and keep voltage drop to a max of 2%.
So it depends on your charging system and vehicle accessory load like lights, wipers, and other stuff. |
|
White70JavelinSST
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Aug/08/2012 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 4867 |
Post Options
Thanks(1)
|
!0 gauge wire Be careful which wire you choose Wire with a whole bunch of little strands all braided together is better than solid wire or wire with just a few strands braided together. That's why welding cable is recommended for the 2/0 cable from the trunk to the starter...etc. Tell em why billd
|
|
70 Javelin SST, second owner, purchased 1972
|
|
Post Reply | Page 123> |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |