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Chinese York Compressor Knock-offs

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CamJam View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CamJam Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/11/2019 at 5:58pm
I'm pretty sure I reversed the head on mine when I installed it in 2015, and it was working when I sold the car earlier this year. I did blow a front seal at one time, so maybe??
'72 Baja Bronze Javelin SST
'69 Big Bad Orange AMX (2018 Teague Heritage Award winner) SOLD
'70 Opel GT
'07 BMW 335i
'13 Ford Focus ST
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote george w Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/11/2019 at 6:00pm
That drilled oil passage being on the suction side is probably the key difference. It most likely provides a return path for any excess oil coming back through the suction side of the system.
Long time AMC fan. Ambassador 343, AMX 390, Hornet 360, Spirit 304 and Javelin 390. All but javelin bought new.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pdok Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/11/2019 at 6:02pm
I keep this site bookmarked.

It has a pretty good listing of various T/CCI versions for comparing head styles.  I bought mine there, rather than go for a knockoff.

By the way, Yorks are pretty easy to rebuild. Lots of google out there on doing so. They're such power hogs, it's a shame, but they're tough little suckers.

A couple of other ways to find York info is through OBA (On-Board Air) forums, and through the truck or fleet supply channels. There are billions (ok, maybe millions) of Yorks riding around on trucks, so plenty of info out there.  Dozens of variations in head and fitting combos, but the Tube-O variety seems a little hard to find. That's what was on my Gremlin factory AC, and it's possible to find. Problem is, they seemed to be a little prone to leak vs O-ring style.

76 Grem X 258/904,4.0 head/MPFI, Comp X250H cam, Hughes springs, Clifford header, serpentine swap.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/11/2019 at 6:58pm
Originally posted by george w george w wrote:

That drilled oil passage being on the suction side is probably the key difference. It most likely provides a return path for any excess oil coming back through the suction side of the system.


That passage is what's generally referred to when people discuss changing the head around. 
Frankly, I wouldn't - because there are other ways of making things work. 
And like has been recently said - these are all over the place from quality sellers, people who rebuild or restore them. They are tough. Jeep people have been using them for air pumps for years.
And yes, there's a lot of them on TRUCKS.
Unless screwed with, they rarely actually fail other than seals, etc. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote george w Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/29/2019 at 9:28pm
I just replaced the fully functioning, but noisy, York compressor in my 67 DPL with a new Chinese replica that I purchased through APD. In the process of replacing the compressor both service valves were front seated to retain the Freon (R-12) charge in the system. Prior to swapping compressors the system was cooling perfectly but the compressor started making much more reciprocating noise than normal. The new compressor was installed and evacuated and held a vacuum overnight. For some reason, when attempting to re-charge the compressor with R-12 the new compressor is not developing any suction pressure and is only producing about 100# on the discharge side. Both service valves are opened to mid point. I should be looking at about 20# suction and 150# on the high side when the car is at fast idle.
Has anyone had any issues with these compressors or should I be looking for a problem elsewhere in the system ?
Long time AMC fan. Ambassador 343, AMX 390, Hornet 360, Spirit 304 and Javelin 390. All but javelin bought new.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote george w Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/03/2019 at 5:54pm
Found the problem with the new compressor installation. It was with the can tap I was using to charge the system. It wasn't passing Freon into the charging hose so the compressor was not receiving the charge and was only working with the charge remaining in the rest of the system. Swapped to a different charging tap and the system charged up perfectly. BTW, the new compressor has Rotolock head fittings but the fittings do not accept the usual square cut plastic O rings. Doug from APD said to use a/c rated rubber O rings that fit within the head fitting. I found some that seemed to be the "right" size and so far they seem to be working fine.   
Long time AMC fan. Ambassador 343, AMX 390, Hornet 360, Spirit 304 and Javelin 390. All but javelin bought new.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CamJam Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/19/2019 at 8:00pm
I ended up taking my Javelin to an a/c shop in Phoenix and having the work done. New Sanden compressor w/ adapter, parallel flow condenser, hoses and evaporator for around $800 installed.  The best part is it's the same guy Dan Curtis uses, so he is very familiar with our AMCs.   
'72 Baja Bronze Javelin SST
'69 Big Bad Orange AMX (2018 Teague Heritage Award winner) SOLD
'70 Opel GT
'07 BMW 335i
'13 Ford Focus ST
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote george w Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/19/2020 at 9:59am
I'm working on another project car, a 1965 Lincoln. The a/c system works but the compressor is noisy as it seems that some or all of the the oil had seeped out through the bottom gasket. I don't want to chance having the compressor fail so I want to replace it before any damage is done within the system. It appears to have the exact same compressor as our AMCs. York, left hand suction with Rotolok head. There are new Valeos in this configuration for sale on eBay for reasonable money but they come filled with oil for R-134 which I assume is esther oil. Can I simply drain out as much as possible and refill with mineral oil and not harm anything ? The vendor says the compressors are for R-134 but is there any difference other than the refrigerant oil ?
The compressor I got last year for my 67 Ambassador from APD has what's called Tube-O fittings on the head. Doug said to use an appropriate sized green O ring in place of the square cut nylon seal used on the Rotoloks. It seemed to work fine last year. The system held a vacuum and held the charge ( R-12) all last year. I've not used the car yet this year so I don't know if those O ring seals are holding.
I bring this up as I see there are Tube-O to Rotolok adapters for sale which I did not see last year. They look pretty simple, just a drop in adapter that takes the O ring on the compressor side and the nylon Rotolok seal on the side that mates with the fitting. Has anyone used these ?

Any input would be appreciated. I intend to keep using R-12 as long as I can get it.
Long time AMC fan. Ambassador 343, AMX 390, Hornet 360, Spirit 304 and Javelin 390. All but javelin bought new.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pdok Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/19/2020 at 8:45pm
The adapters should be fine, at least on the O-ring side. Problem with Tube-O is either over-tightening them or otherwise damaging the seals from disassembly.  In my opinion, O-rings are superior, though both will seal for years just fine.  If the adapters aren't holding for you, I believe you could swap the plate if you can match the part numbers.

If you're switching back to mineral oil, I'd flush the system entirely and rebuild the receiver/drier. However, that said you'll probably be fine as long as there's enough oil in the compressor, even if it's noisy. Yorks are pretty tough.  I'd run it until it fails or you can't stand the noise.

If you decide you want to replace it, I can make you an amazing deal on a TC/CCI York, that I pulled when I swapped to a 4.0 head. sitting in my garage for 4 years now.  It barely got driven, maybe a few hundred miles and not much with the AC on...  Tube-O fittings though, so maybe not what you'd want.

Also, not to stir up a hornet's nest here, but I've been using ES-12a with satisfying results.  It's cheap, although it's not recommended to top off with it. You could buy a lifetime supply of it for the price of one pound of R-12.

Pretty good website for looking up York compressors:  https://truckerac.com/tcci-style-compressors.html


76 Grem X 258/904,4.0 head/MPFI, Comp X250H cam, Hughes springs, Clifford header, serpentine swap.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FSJunkie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/22/2020 at 12:12am
I have two of the modern manufacture York compressors in my cars and all I can say is they've both worked at least as well as the original York compressors that I've rebuilt. 


'66 Marlin: 327/T10/3.54
'72 Wagoneer: 360/TH400/3.31
'73 Ambassador Brougham: 360/TF727/3.15
'77 Hornet: 232/TF904/2.73
'82 Concord D/L: 258/TF998/2.35
'84 Eagle Limited: 258/TF998/2.35
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