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Charging when driving

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Hayes89 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hayes89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Charging when driving
    Posted: Dec/30/2020 at 2:52pm
Hello I've been working on my charging system on my 72 matador to V8 360 5.9 I have everything hooked up correctly now I just bought the manual for the car and hooked alternator wires up correctly and I noticed my ground for my body it wasn't on so I put that onto the body frame. The car holds a charge when it's off and it holds a charge when it's running but once I start to drive the car battery dies once I turn it off. What can be the cause of that can the ground be a bad ground I didn't change its location I just put it back on to where it was cuz it was disconnected on the body.  Alsoo the car won't stay running without the battery connected can that have something to do with the charging system. Any help is appreciated😊o
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Heavy 488 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Heavy 488 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/30/2020 at 3:15pm
The car isn't supposed to stay running when you disconnect the battery.
It doesn't have a 1960 vintage generator. That's how you blow out an alternator.
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Hayes89 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hayes89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/30/2020 at 8:02pm
Ok it use to stay before I let people"help me" now I'm just trying to figure out why it dies after a drive. Everything is new and hooked up correctly.
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6PakBee View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/30/2020 at 8:28pm
Well, if everything is new and hooked up correctly then it has to work.  Period.  If it doesn't, then

1)  something new is faulty
2)  something is not hooked up correctly
3)  both of the above

I recommend you go through some of Billd's posts to troubleshoot what you have.  The simplest is to read the battery voltage with the engine at fast idle.  If you don't have at least 13.2-13.5 volts your charging system is not working.


Edited by 6PakBee - Dec/31/2020 at 8:17am
Roger Gazur
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All project cars.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigbad69 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/31/2020 at 2:08pm
Originally posted by Hayes89 Hayes89 wrote:

The car holds a charge when it's off and it holds a charge when it's running but once I start to drive the car battery dies once I turn it off.
Could you explain what you mean by this and how you determined it was charging? It would help diagnose the problem.

Disconnecting the battery while the car is running doesn't prove a thing (other than a lack of understanding of the charging system) and should never be done for any reason. As Heavy said, you can fry the alternator.

Measure the batter voltage with the engine off. It should be around 12.6V
Start the engine and rev it up a bit. Battery voltage should be 13.2 - 13.5V as 6Pak said. If less, it's undercharging, if more it's overcharging.
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tomj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/31/2020 at 11:35pm
What bigbad69 and 6pakbee say...

NEVER! disconnect the battery when the engine is running. It is extremely likely to ruin any/all electronics in the car. The alternator needs the battery there.

Poking around is fine if it solves the problem, but if it doesn't, more poking usually harms.

The simple test bigbad69 suggests is an excellent one. You gotta get methodical. Another test is to put the voltmeter on the battery -- car off not running -- measure the voltage. Should be 12.6 or so as stated. Turn the headlights on. It might drop a bit, a few tenths. If it drops more than that something wrong.

Battery connections must be shiny metal. TIGHT. The ground cable engine to chassis must be not frayed. Pull HARD on battery cables, and wiggle them HARD. If it pulls out, or wiggling you see the strands on the end of the wire move, it is no good. Ground wires have to be shiny metal and tight.

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http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Hayes89 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hayes89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/03/2021 at 9:04pm
Thank you guys so much for all the help. About the ground wire. Where exactly does it connect. I just bout a new one and am going to replace the old one. But I'm not sure where one end connects. There appears to be one end screwed into the chassis of the car. And the other end was named inside the frame of the car and has a solder end. Where does the soldered end attach to? To the frame of the car or to the motor somewhere? 
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tomj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/03/2021 at 10:34pm
Engine block to chassis is the goal.

The metal at both locations should be SHINY, which means not greasy too, yeah, a PITA... THe factory location is as good as any, I think it varies with the model, but often it "jumpers" over a motor mount -- which if you think about it, is a pretty good electrical insulator! (metal rubber metal)

The location should be in the technical service manual.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/25/2021 at 7:30pm
I can't believe in 2020/2021 people still pull a battery cable off with the engine running. 
You blow regulators, blow the tops off diodes, you simply break things unless you are EXTREMELY lucky. 
NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER EVER pull a battery cable off with the engine running. 

Below are the regulators AMC used and the regulated voltage. 
For the "R2" series subtract about 1 volt to compensate for the voltage drop across the isolation diode. In other words, AT THE BATTERY, you should see 14.2 volts for the R2AM1 regulator, 13.8 AT THE BATTERY for the R2AM2

13.8 to 14.2 is normal voltage at the battery if the battery is charged, engine running, and things working normally. 

R2AM1  -  15.2
R2AM2  -  14.8
R2AM4  -  14.8
8RB2005  -  14.0
8RH2003  -  14.2

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote purple72Gremlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/26/2021 at 3:40am
Originally posted by billd billd wrote:

I can't believe in 2020/2021 people still pull a battery cable off with the engine running. 
You blow regulators, blow the tops off diodes, you simply break things unless you are EXTREMELY lucky. 
NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER EVER pull a battery cable off with the engine running. 

Below are the regulators AMC used and the regulated voltage. 
For the "R2" series subtract about 1 volt to compensate for the voltage drop across the isolation diode. In other words, AT THE BATTERY, you should see 14.2 volts for the R2AM1 regulator, 13.8 AT THE BATTERY for the R2AM2

13.8 to 14.2 is normal voltage at the battery if the battery is charged, engine running, and things working normally. 

R2AM1  -  15.2
R2AM2  -  14.8
R2AM4  -  14.8
8RB2005  -  14.0
8RH2003  -  14.2

I can believe it.   I still see it. And people look at me like Im the idiot.  For the most part Ive given up on idiots.  I remember the one time..  they pulled the battery cable off.  It kept running. So they thought well.. lets turn the headlights on.   Pull on the headlight switch.. the alternator went up in smoke like a nuclear reaction.  Car ended up in the junkpile
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