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Carter YF Electric Choke conversion? |
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ArdsleyTank 
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Joined: May/05/2017 Location: Dickson, TN Status: Offline Points: 95 |
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 Topic: Carter YF Electric Choke conversion?Posted: Mar/20/2019 at 9:47am |
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Hi all. I am looking to convert my hot air choke to electric, due to my heater stove being toast. I found this on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Choke-Kit-or-Replacement-with-connector-for-Carter-1-Barrel-YF-or-YFA/401059354138?epid=685389835&hash=item5d6100161a:g:hpUAAOSwFqJWom1e:sc:USPSFirstClass!37036!US!-1 Am I correct in assuming that the single wire gets plugged straight into a ignition-switched 12V source? Or do I need to have it go through some temperature detection as well? (Thermistor?) Please help. Many thanks, Peter
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1973 Gremlin Factory V8 Base--Trans-Am Red with Gold Pinstripes--304 2BBL Bone Stock
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Ollie
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Joined: Sep/17/2012 Location: Brandon, MS Status: Offline Points: 2826 |
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Posted: Mar/20/2019 at 10:22am |
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You got it Peter, 1 wire to key hot 12V.
I have one on my Postal Jeep. Having AMC Fun, Ollie |
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1966 American Convertible -- "The Rambler"..SOLD
1974 Postal Jeep -- "Rapid Delivery"...SOLD 1969 Rambler 220 post car--"Road Warrior" 1989 Jeep Comanche Pioneer, 4.0L, auto, 2wd |
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ArdsleyTank
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Joined: May/05/2017 Location: Dickson, TN Status: Offline Points: 95 |
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Posted: Mar/20/2019 at 11:46am |
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Perfect. I bought it, so hopefully it'll be here in time for the weekend. Thanks again, Peter
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1973 Gremlin Factory V8 Base--Trans-Am Red with Gold Pinstripes--304 2BBL Bone Stock
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ArdsleyTank
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Joined: May/05/2017 Location: Dickson, TN Status: Offline Points: 95 |
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Posted: Mar/20/2019 at 2:11pm |
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Actually, I've been thinking about this. Where WOULD be a good place to get an ingnition-switched source? The wire that feeds 12V to the ignition coil? Thanks, Peter
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1973 Gremlin Factory V8 Base--Trans-Am Red with Gold Pinstripes--304 2BBL Bone Stock
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purple72Gremlin
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Posted: Mar/20/2019 at 4:01pm |
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pacerman
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Posted: Mar/20/2019 at 4:27pm |
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Actually the Eagles at least and probably the other sixes with electric choke had an oil pressure switch that is connected to an ignition source and then feeds power to the choke after the engine starts. I think my Pacer has such a switch. Joe
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Happiness is making something out of nothing.
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FSJunkie
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Joined: Jan/09/2011 Location: Flagstaff, AZ Status: Offline Points: 4821 |
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Posted: Mar/21/2019 at 1:47pm |
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The only problem with wiring the electric choke directly to the ignition switch is the choke will receive power, heat up, and release any time the ignition is on...even if the engine is not running and is still cold. This can sometimes, create a situation where the choke is released on a cold engine and make the engine very hard to start.
Imagine your car is being hard to start for some reason, whether the carburetor is dry or whatever. You will spend a lot of time in the "run" and "start" positions of the ignition switch without the engine actually running and warming up while the whole time the choke is heating up and releasing. Now you are in a real bind. It's not an issue if the engine fires up immediately but sometimes they won't if something is not quite in order. This is why some kind of method of ensuring the choke only receives power while the engine is actually running is advisable, whether it's an oil pressure switch or a relay triggered by alternator output voltage. The other thing to realize is there is still a vacuum piston inside the choke housing that needs to receive airflow from the hot air tube fitting on the choke housing. You cannot seal off the air tube. It still needs to suck in air through there, and it needs to be clean, filtered air. Use a rubber hose or hard line to connect the heat inlet on the choke housing to the fresh air tube on the air horn of the carburetor, bypassing the manifold heat stove. Your choke may not fully release in cold weather. I have found that some electric chokes are not powerful enough to overcome very cold winter weather. And honestly it's probably easier just to find a new choke heat stove tube and install it into your manifold. They are removed and installed with a punch. |
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1966 Marlin 1972 Wagoneer 1973 Ambassador 1977 Hornet 1982 Concord D/L 1984 Eagle Limited |
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tomj
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Posted: Mar/21/2019 at 10:11pm |
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in practice it's not that bad. ive lived with on-with-ignition electric chokes for years. it's not that cold here; but it's easier to "not do that" eg dont eave ignition on, use ACC position for the radio. everything;s a compromise. choke stoves work fine, but they're a real PITA to fix when they get totally rotten. |
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ArdsleyTank
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Joined: May/05/2017 Location: Dickson, TN Status: Offline Points: 95 |
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Posted: Mar/22/2019 at 9:14am |
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FSJunkie, I have looked, and my carburetor has no such fresh air port. Some models did, and mine unfortunately does not. How would you recommend I connect the choke to fresh air in my situation?
Also, the question still stands. Where should I connect the positive lead of the choke? Would one of the "Accessory" terminals on the the fuse panel be okay? I'm a relatively electrically competent person, but I'm just covering my bases here. Peter
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1973 Gremlin Factory V8 Base--Trans-Am Red with Gold Pinstripes--304 2BBL Bone Stock
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farna
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Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 21273 |
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Posted: Mar/25/2019 at 5:34am |
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Choke stoves aren't hard to fix, if you don't mind it not looking stock. I usually drill out the old and insert a piece of brake line. But I've used copper tubing and just wrapped it around the manifold or exhaust pipe (wherever convenient) one turn as well. That's a quick and easy fix, just don't pinch the copper shut when wrapping. Usually did that when I didn't have time to replace factory tube or tube was hard to get to. Hard to replace the factory tube in some installations with the manifolds still on the engine and in the car. If you do that don't forget to plug the holes in the manifold. A self tapping screw works fine. Remember, one on top AND bottom! Leaving them unplugged shouldn't be an issue, but best to plug them.
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Frank Swygert
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ArdsleyTank wrote: