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Brake drums.

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Doober View Drop Down
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    Posted: Sep/06/2021 at 4:38pm
Hey all! Brake drum question.  So, this is the first time checking for drums on my 69 Rebel. I'm looking for front 10" drum, but only find 10" rear drums. Seems odd to me. Are the rear 10" drums the same as the front 10" drums. Are companies just not listing them for the front, If they are the same? Any clarification would be appreciated. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 68-73 amx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/07/2021 at 3:34pm
Be sure to check center and stud holes for correct Diameter if possible.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mramc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/07/2021 at 4:11pm
If I recall correctly while the front & rear drums may be the same. The front drums on a drum brake car has the hub welded to the brake drum . So they a little different in that regard. Been awhile since I worked with front drum brakes but I seem to recall this being the case. LRDaum
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/07/2021 at 10:18pm
I think most rear 10" drums are dimensioned as 10 x 1.75, and front 10" are usually 10 x 2.5". I don't think fronts were ever 1.75" wide, but don't take my word for it, research it. 

There's some errors in the LEGEND here but all of this data is right out of TSMs:


Larry, the front drums are staked/swaged, at each lug stud, not welded. They are always separable, even though it can be arbitrarily difficult.

There is a special tool for cutting the swage off in a big drill press, but someone suggested that a 5/8" holesaw, minus the pilot bit, will do the job, but will ruin the studs, but you were gonna replace those anyway probably.

Also I think the front hub center is a larger ID (hole) than the rear hubs. This is true of 9" brakes too, 9" rear drums won't fit on front hubs. Again, check, my memory is sometimes creative.

Front and rear drums look approximately the same, but rears are much lighter duty, or think of it as fronts are much heavier duty; fronts do 60 - 70% of the braking. Fronts (especially 10") were often finned in some way, though these are no longer available as far as I know.



For whatever reason, front 9" x 2.5" drums remain supportable, meaning parts freely available (for now).  Probably because so many cars used them.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
1968 American, 199ci, T14
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/08/2021 at 6:58am
I have replaced a front drum by driving the old studs out. Usually warps the old drum, but it's being replaced anyway...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote javtopgun Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/14/2021 at 7:34pm
I just did a front disc conversion on a 68 jav. and scraped the drums. they were good but i thought who wants drums ... anyway when it was a drum front i do know that when i put 1" spacers on front and 2" spacers on rear , the hub bore had to be different as the 4 i bought ( spacers ) had same bore and the front ones would not work / fit over the beveled lip on the front drums that was not there on the rear drums.. So that is different on a 68 jav. drums !
1968 Javelin SSt 343ci semi restomod .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/14/2021 at 9:38pm
I save 9 x 2.5" drum backing plates as they make very easy brake upgrades for the little Americans, that have inadequate and hard to find 9 x 2 brakes. But it's not like they are valuable or anything! I'm cleaning up a set from a 68 American now, to put on my 1960 American.

Are you saying you have one inch and TWO INCH wheel spacers on your javelin?! 

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
1968 American, 199ci, T14
AMC pages: http://www.sr-ix.com/AMC/

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote javtopgun Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/15/2021 at 12:39pm
i do sir ... 1 inch on the front and 2 inch on the back with foose knuckle wheels . Id like to put 2" on front to really improve the look but not possible with out a major rework of lower fender wells front and back of the wheel wells . The struts have to be just right ( caster ) to keep them from rubbing on turns . In fact a small rework has to be done to keep them from rubbing in reverse on a rt turn in reverse but with ( i forget the offset of the wheel ) and 245/45/17 fronts and 265/40/17 rears it works, was tuff getting it there as many times i had to reset the struts but found a sweet spot. Did have to curl in the inner flange of the fender at back bottom but the rocker alum trim covers that and trim down that bracket in front of fender that stabilizes the the front of the front fender in wheel well . Plus the strut bushing have to be changed to the hard prothane bushing so there is no movement of strut for and aft which even with the prothane grease u get cold bushing squeak for about 15min or so till they warm up then no squeak ! to me its worth it for the wide stance you get when done . 2" which i had on it to see what it look like was BAD Ash ! but could not work it out with out cutting . I regrease and check my wheel bearings alot and check the torques on the spacers alot also . and grease the ball joints ever chance i get . No want to brake a spacer , NOT a good thing to happen !! 
1968 Javelin SSt 343ci semi restomod .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote javtopgun Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/15/2021 at 12:52pm
Originally i bought 4 mustang spacers , 2 - 1" and 2 - 2" .. Well the center bore was too tight on the fronts due to that beveled lip on the drums ( i believe the center bore was 2 7/8th" needed 2 15/16th") . I went in a 1/8" by about a 1/16th " wide and they worked . But when i converted to disc from a 71 jav .. these no longer worked . So i got 1" spacers for i think a Crown vic which had a 3" center bore !
1968 Javelin SSt 343ci semi restomod .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote javtopgun Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/15/2021 at 1:19pm
of course with 10.4 inch wide rear tires and out to the fender well ends i would come down on the tire under hard bumps , Sooo i had to take off the shackle brackets to the frame and leaf and using steel bar stock same width and thick cut 1 1/4" longer brackets giving me a 3/4 higher stance in back . i also , cuz i tow a 175cc dirt bike with car , installed the little gray helper springs u can get from O'reileys auto parts about 2 foot or less long . the ones that have 2 rivits for adj loads . No rivit gives 500 lb assist the small rivit gives 1000lb assist and the big rivit gives 1500 lb assit. I used no rivit . installed a 2" custom box hitch to tow the bike . This too put some curve back into my leaf springs and another 1/2 lift . Went from one finger clearance , top tire to fender to 3 1/2 finger clearance . And just so you know .. I broke a shock once . I has KYBs on the car but one broke at the bottom attacking point. i replaced with Monrow HD . Come to find out that the Monrow's "  bout 3/4 or so longer and lets the suspension do full travel , thats why the rit side KYB broke . was short on travel . There you have it !!  lol    
1968 Javelin SSt 343ci semi restomod .
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