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Blower Runs Constantly/Low Defroster Air Flow

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nashman50 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nashman50 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Blower Runs Constantly/Low Defroster Air Flow
    Posted: Jun/30/2021 at 9:56pm
Is the blower on a 71 Ambassador supposed to run all the time?  Even with the controls in the fully off position, the blower continues to run on low.  Also, there is very little air flow through the defroster vents, even when messing with the dampers and cables.  Does anyone have any idea what could be the cause of that?  It seems to get somewhat better with all of the dash vents closed.
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tomj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/01/2021 at 12:49am
Those are completely different sets of problems. One is electrical, the other, ducting. Of course the fan in the middle but the problems are separate.

The fan should have OFF LOW HIGH (or whatever and AMbo has) and off means off. Switch is broken, or if it's done this since you got the car -- you haven't told us anything about background, did this just start happening, etc? -- or someone went in and wired it funny to "fix something" (like a bad switch). Switches do fail of course, but it's unusual for an OFF position to be suddenly powered. I suspect human meddling.

The duct work is almost certainly plugged with leaves, fallen down, cracked, tape and seals come loose, in other words, succumbed to age-related maladies. It seems no or few cars escape this. Usually it means pulling everything out from the dash and going through it. Heater box filled with leaves and mice nests, clogged with dust, etc.

50 years is a long time! I just did all that stuff in my 1968 American (similar enough to yours, but probably simpler). No one task was difficult, there were just many of them. spent weeks finding windshield and cowl leaks, bad heater core, foam flapper seals replaced, leaves extracted, etc. It now works as good as it did from the factory -- barely acceptable! lol.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/01/2021 at 8:06am
Big smile  Reminds me of my Dad's '62 Dodge pickup, in the winter in sub zero weather the defroster struggled to get a 6" circle defrosted that you could see through to drive.  Ah, good times!!
Roger Gazur
1969 'B' Scheme SC/Rambler
1970 RWB 4-spd Machine
1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX

All project cars.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote troutwilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/01/2021 at 8:46pm
What tomj says, plus, if the mechanism for changing air flow from floor to vents to defrost is controlled by a cable (like a lawnmower throttle), its possible the cable slipped its position, became unattached at either end, or broke.
Bill O.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Heavy 488 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/01/2021 at 8:52pm
Time to bust out the TSM. It's all in there.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/01/2021 at 11:17pm
71... yeah those stupid black plastic control cables. they were brittle when new, and brittlerer (?) today. They flex slightly in operation and often crack right at the clip. When ductwork gets clogged, stiff, packed with leaves, etc, it takes more force to operate, then the black plastic cable housing cracks, and the cable no longer operates.

I have not once owned a Rambler that did not need all of the crap under the instrument panel removed, cleaned, repaired, sealed, etc. Earlier ones are simple; my 1960 American has wirewound cables, no "Weather Eye" complexity, and was fixed in a day. My 68, it took me nearly a year of poking at it to get it leak-free.  YMMV. The good news is everythign was cheap to fix, just a bunch of hours, cleaning, fabricating new flapper seals, etc.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote madams Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/02/2021 at 6:25am
On the early AMX/Jav cars with all the controls in the off position the fan will still run on low if the Temperature control for the AC is not all the way off.  

I bought a "rebuild kit" from Detroit Muscle Technologies for early AMX with all the gaskets foam covers etc.  Nice kit that worked well.  I have been happy with all the products I have purchased there.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote george w Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/02/2021 at 8:30am
Like madams said, like the AMX and Javelins, also on the "big body" cars the HVAC fan will run on low if the a/c temp. control knob is not turned fully CCW past the detent click.
Long time AMC fan. Ambassador 343, AMX 390, Hornet 360, Spirit 304 and Javelin 390. All but javelin bought new.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nashman50 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/02/2021 at 10:27pm
The switch seems to move properly and we have been adjusting the cables--it's somewhat better.  It seems like the switch might be bad, even though I've cleaned it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/12/2021 at 6:32am
Modern cars run the fan on a "very low" speed all the time, but they are tighter than the 60s and 70s cars. If the only issue is the fan running on low I don't think I'd bother with it, but check the control positions as noted first. There should be a switch of some kind near the temp control -- that could be out of adjustment or not working -- more likely that than the main switch. There is a chance that the issue is in the resistor pack for the fans, which is inside the blower housing on 70s models so it gets cooled by moving air (60s models have the resistor pack exposed under hood -- at least through 66). You might want to check connections there.
Frank Swygert
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