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Aussie Gremlin

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PROSTOCKTOM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/14/2020 at 9:09am
I am assuming you probably already have well ported iron heads, so I am not sure just how much more there is to be had from a head change. However a bigger cam will wake it up a lot. Maybe something around 250 @ .050"? 

Tom
Molnar Technologies Full Service Dealer - Crankshafts & Connecting Rods

1969 AMC Rambler Rouge Race Car
1974 AMC Hornet Hatchback, Wally Booth Outlaw Nostalgic Pro Stock Race Car Project
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/14/2020 at 4:49pm
It currently 993 iron heads with some home porting so that probably won't qualify as well ported, could have done a lot more work around the valve guide boss. The heads would have to come off and have the valve guides cut down to run a bigger cam.

Eddies mainly because I have them on another engine, I am working on some 291C heads to liberate them for the Gremlin, so could also bolt the 291C heads on instead, which will be a little closer to well ported when done.

Cam is also something I have laying around and was mentioned earlier in the thread:



Current cam is around 230 @ 0.050" hydraulic with 0.510" lift and around 300 adv duration, specs from memory.

60' is currently in the 1.70-1.75 range, so need to get it off the line a bit quicker.

Bit of YouTube of the series, I make a cameo appearance at the end. 




Edited by WesternRed - May/14/2020 at 4:59pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote PROSTOCKTOM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/14/2020 at 7:08pm
At 9:44 I thought was the cameo, but then at 12:43 I see the action starting. Tongue

Switching from your current hydraulic to that solid will easily cut your times by 2/10ths. I can't remember how much convertor you have, but that also an easy way to get it faster.

Tom
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/14/2020 at 7:37pm
3500 or so on the convertor, turbo action job, upgrade on the converter would be a fairly substantial investment through local suppliers.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PROSTOCKTOM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/14/2020 at 8:51pm
Originally posted by WesternRed WesternRed wrote:

3500 or so on the convertor, turbo action job, upgrade on the converter would be a fairly substantial investment through local suppliers.
Getting to 3500 is usually not to bad price wise. Getting more than that start costing some cash really quickly if it's a well built converter that will last. A 4500 converter would really wake things up. You have came a long ways from the times you started out with. Keep playing with it long enough and it will get faster and more expensive. Evil Smile

Tom
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/12/2020 at 5:40am
We still have a couple of months of our winter break left before we can get back racing again, assuming we don't have a beer virus related extended shutdown. Thought it was about time I kicked off the first winter upgrade:  

Out with the old ignition system:


And in with the shiny new Holley Sniper Hyperspark distributor:


It has this funny plastic alignment cap that you use to setup the rotor phasing, seems a bit of an odd concept to me since you don't actually adjust the rotor position relative to anything else:


Then there was some wiring shenanigans to deal with to hook up the power and the coil driver module:


All done with some nice new Ice ignition leads (most expensive set of leads I've ever bought).


Of course that's just where the fun begins, I had to do a firmware update on the Sniper to allow it to recognize the distributor and it also comes with a really crazy base timing map that doesn't start advancing the timing until about 2500 rpm.


So I had to come up with something a little better using one of their "how to" videos for guidance, basically replicating initial timing of 15 deg with total mechanical advance of 36 deg plus 6 deg of vacuum advance:


This is it's self learned fuel map that i was able to retain:


Finally little video of it running, timing light seems to verify that it is doing something:




Edited by WesternRed - Jul/12/2020 at 7:10am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PROSTOCKTOM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/12/2020 at 6:32am
Took a second to figure out what the YouTube link was with all that extra, but I figured it out. LOL


Tom
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/12/2020 at 7:10am
Hopefully that's better now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/01/2020 at 12:57am
Time for an update here, so far the new ignition appears to be working as intended and it is good to have the added benefit of a rev limiter, which is currently set to 6,500 and has been used a couple of times already at the track.

As per some other discussion posts elsewhere, the car was having all sorts of traction issues at the start of the season here, which it seems can be mostly attributed to track preparation. However this did give rise to many thoughts on how to make the car hookup better. One such potential area for improvement was to relocate the battery to the rear of the car to aid in weight transfer, so I've been beavering away at that for the last week or so.

One complication is that the car doesn't have a boot, so the battery needed to be relocated within to the passenger compartment. My understanding of drag racing rules is that this requires the battery to be in a sealed box that is vented to the exterior of the car. I couldn't bring myself to spend AU$150 on the Moroso plastic battery relocation box or even more on a Taylor alloy one and not finding any other suitable alternatives, I set about making one.


Note checker plate finish to the inside, didn't want it looking too fancy. I am lucky enough to have a mate at work who could TIG it all together for me.

Had to figure out how to mount it to the floor as it sits over the top of the fuel cell, so I ended up doing captive nuts in the spacer bar that sits between the top of the fuel cell and the floor:


Finished box bolted down and battery installed, note the rubber seal on the top:


Finished product, note new battery cable running along the bottom of the wheel well.


Final piece of the puzzle was to add a battery isolator switch, so hopefully all nice an ANDRA (Our equivalent of NHRA) compliant once I add some stickers and probably a lanyard on the key so that it doesn't fall out and get lost halfway down the track:


I may move the switch to a higher location in future but for the moment just making use of the existing hole in the body.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/01/2020 at 1:12am
Bigger burnouts seem to help with traction too:


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