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At what point do i overbore a 401 block

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mstrcrftr View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mstrcrftr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/01/2022 at 9:14am
Like Roger said,  check the taper of the cylinder wall first.. if its over .005 then bore it..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LakesideRamblin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/01/2022 at 10:41am
There are many 401's that are bored 30 over and run great for years.  Not a big deal.  Just have a good shop do it and you're on your way.  Not a situation to cheap out.
LakesideRamblin
69 Rambler 360
73 Javelin 360
"If you could kick the person in the pants responsible for most of your trouble, you wouldn't sit for a month." T. Roosevelt
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote merr6267 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/01/2022 at 11:45am
I just did a 4.0/4.6 stroker (not rare by any stretch) but wanted to spend the minimum possible. 

I took a straight stone hone in my drill for just a couple strokes to get the bores free of any cooked on gunk.  Next I used a piston ring that came from the motor and showed a light from the bottom to see how the "round" ring sealed against the block. Any light coming through the ring against the block showed that I should use a shim to measure how bad it was. That gave a decent indication if the walls had localized low spots.  

The next trick is to use the same ring and measure the gap at the top, middle and bottom to approximate the taper (circumference = pi*diameter) by measuring the ring gap you get a pretty decent resolution of how much the bore is tapering without having to spend a bunch of money on a bore gauge.

I realize that this is a bit of a backyard redneck solution, but you can then make a decent decision about the health of that part of your block. Assuming the taper is not excessive the rings will probably seal, especially at lower rpm.  At higher rpm, the rings may not be able to keep up with the irregularity of the bore (think like valve float) and there may be excessive blowby.

For what it's worth, the little 4.6 with all the stock junk and new stock replacement pistons and rings burns no oil and does not smoke.  After break in I had 200psi on all 6.  


That's just a small example of doing something on a different thing that may justify not cutting that sweet virgin 401.  


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/01/2022 at 11:56am
As stated above, but add that a piston is best to use to set the ring in the bore squarely. That piston ring gap also can be used to calculate the bore diameter at all points.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote merr6267 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/01/2022 at 12:41pm
Originally posted by Trader Trader wrote:

As stated above, but add that a piston is best to use to set the ring in the bore squarely. That piston ring gap also can be used to calculate the bore diameter at all points.

Yes! forgot to clarify that.  

Use a piston upside down to press the ring into the place in the bore evenly and straight. then measure the change in ring gap in all places and note the difference. A change of .003 on the end gap is roughly equivalent to .001 on the bode diameter because C=pi*D.  Therefore D= C/pi.

That formula translates to changes too.  Change in Diameter = change in circumference/pi.

change in diameter = .003 end gap change / 3.14

change in diameter  roughly equals .001 

This gives a nice resolution that's easy to approximate without buying a bore gauge.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/01/2022 at 5:17pm
If it measures ok, a hone and re-ring job would be fine, the next bloke will appreciate that it is still standard bore.

A standard bore block will always be worth more than one that is already 30 thou oversize.
I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote troutwilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/02/2022 at 5:09pm
merr6267,

That there is some perty fancy redneck calculatin.  Im'a guessing shadetree (me) is a shade below redneck.

But really, its amazing what one can learn here.  My problem now is knowledge retention.  Love this place.
Bill O.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote flejl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/02/2022 at 5:57pm
I have "learned a ton" of new information just on this thread.

You guys are great!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote flejl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/05/2023 at 11:58am
Family commitments forced me to "back burner" anything on this for a while.

I finally had a chance to get back to this looking at this.  Since I created this thread, I had a chance to pick up a dial bore gauge and when I get some extra time will check the bores with it and then cross check with the piston/ring/feeler gauge method as well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbwicz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/05/2023 at 1:08pm
  The other thing to keep in mind is your intended use and budget.  If its a street cruiser you may think differently than if its something you want to run hard at the strip.  Or if its going into your special 'forever' car, then you may not be opposed to buying custom pistons at .010 or .020 over and have it machined with a torque plate to be as accurate as possible.
  There are worse things than to have to wait a year while other things are more important.  The engine will be there for you!

Mike

1970 AMX, one step forward, one step back. Both steps cost time and money.
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