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An unfortunate amc design |
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1958 rambler super
AMC Addicted Joined: Dec/10/2020 Location: Victoria BC can Status: Offline Points: 1201 |
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Posted: Aug/07/2022 at 3:59pm |
I found out the wheel cyl won't come off before the wheel hub, in the past I've asked about ways of taking off wheel hubs on the big cars, people have told me to use fire to expand and contract the metal to loosen it up, people have said put on the wheel hub puller and tighten it real tight and leave it on overnight, then try again in the morning, ect, so when I get the puller I'll try those things, I also need to look for two new 1 inch double piston wheel cylinders, so the hunt is on. In the mean time here's a pic for yall to say holy smokes at... Look at all those crumbs of rust inside that cylinder.... The PO said he rebuilt the brakes, I wonder how long ago... Maybe, in fairness to him, he decided to avoid inspecting these cylinders to avoid the trouble of taking off the hub... That's possible. I like being fair and not negative, and give the benefit of the dought. (even though I've never understood that expression and have no idea what it means... .)
Edited by 1958 rambler super - Aug/07/2022 at 4:02pm |
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devildog80
AMC Apprentice Joined: Jul/29/2022 Location: Apache Junction Status: Offline Points: 143 |
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Should be able to rebuild those on the car?
Not as easy as on the bench, but might be a whole lot easier than having to get them off first!
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tufcj
Supporter of TheAMCForum Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/10/2007 Location: Watkins, CO Status: Offline Points: 4086 |
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The oldest I've done is a 61 American, but I was able to remove the wheel cylinder without removing the hub. Take the 4 bolts out of the backing plate, it might allow it to tilt enough to remove the wheel cylinder. You did remove the bleeder didn't you? Bob tufcj
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69 AMX
74 Javelin AMX 67 Rogue If you need a tool and don't buy it... you'll eventually pay for it... and not have it. Henry Ford |
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ramblinrev
Moderator Group Joined: Dec/28/2008 Location: Wisconsin Status: Offline Points: 11539 |
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Try Bob's suggestion! There has to be a way to get that out!
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74 Hornet Hatchback X twins (since 1977)
62 American Convertible (still worth the $50 I spent in 1973!) AMCRC #513, AMO #384 70 AMX 360 4-speed (since 1981) |
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mstrcrftr
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/12/2010 Location: houston Status: Offline Points: 2066 |
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X2 on bobs suggestion.. it will come out..
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6PakBee
Supporter of TheAMCForum Charter Member Joined: Jul/01/2007 Location: North Dakota Status: Offline Points: 5457 |
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the benefit of the doubtThe withholding of judgment so as to retain a favorable or at least neutral opinion of someone or something when the full information about the subject is not yet available. |
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Roger Gazur
1969 'B' Scheme SC/Rambler 1970 RWB 4-spd Machine 1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX All project cars. Forum Cockroach |
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troutwilly
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/14/2007 Location: Carriere, MS Status: Offline Points: 992 |
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Shoot us a pic of the back side. Seems like if the bolts and the bleeder is removed it should slide out to the front or rear.
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Bill O.
70 AMX |
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Buzzman72
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/15/2009 Location: Southern IN Status: Offline Points: 2725 |
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From what I see in the photo, this is a FRONT hub. What is gained by NOT removing the front hub?
NO PULLER is required. Remove the dust cap, remove the cotter pin from the castellated ["castle"] nut, remove the castle nut, and wiggle the hub. The single-toothed washer and outer wheel bearing cone should almost fall out into your hand. Then gently pull on the hub and the inner wheel bearing and seal will come off with the hub. I NEVER, EVER do a front brake job, drum OR disc, without examining front wheel [hub] bearing cones and races. When in doubt, toss them out! Replace with new bearings AFTER you have PROPERLY packed the bearings with wheel bearing grease. Or if the bearings and races pass inspection, repack and reuse them. Replace the rear hub seal every time; it's just cheap insurance so wheel bearing grease doesn't contaminate the brake shoe linings. This isn't an "unfortunate AMC design." Rather, it's a method to FORCE you to examine the wheel bearings whenever you do a front brake job. [And use a new cotter pin when you replace the hub. They're also cheap insurance against a fatigued cotter pin breaking. Not that there's a LOT of stress on the cotter pin, but because no one wants to lose a wheel at speed for lack of a 10-cent cotter pin.] My first car was a '57 Rambler V8. There's no hoodoo/voodoo involved in replacing the front brakes. There is no design flaw. There IS such a thing as not being experienced working on front drum brakes on rear-wheel-drive cars. I'm just surprised no one before me caught that this was a front hub and not a rear. With no axle housing showing behind, and just the thin piece of one of the 2-piece lower-trunnion-style control arms, I thought it was obvious. The 1" wheel cylinders also tell me that this is a front, as the rears for a '58 Rambler Super are 13/16" diameter. But I've been working on these for 50+ years, so "I know a thing or two because I've seen a thing or two." [No, I don't sell insurance.] Edited by Buzzman72 - Aug/08/2022 at 1:29pm |
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Buzzman72...void where prohibited, your mileage may vary, objects in mirror may be closer than they appear, and alcohol may intensify any side effects.
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676 |
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Yep, looks like front to me! Pull the hub. I've never run across one that I had to pull the rear hub to get off either.
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Frank Swygert
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Buzzman72
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/15/2009 Location: Southern IN Status: Offline Points: 2725 |
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So was the problem ever resolved?
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Buzzman72...void where prohibited, your mileage may vary, objects in mirror may be closer than they appear, and alcohol may intensify any side effects.
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