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An unfortunate amc design

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1958 rambler super View Drop Down
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    Posted: Aug/07/2022 at 3:59pm
I found out the wheel cyl won't come off before the wheel hub, in the past I've asked about ways of taking off wheel hubs on the big cars, people have told me to use fire to expand and contract the metal to loosen it up, people have said put on the wheel hub puller and tighten it real tight and leave it on overnight, then try again in the morning, ect, so when I get the puller I'll try those things, I also need to look for two new 1 inch double piston wheel cylinders, so the hunt is on. In the mean time here's a pic for yall to say holy smokes at... Look at all those crumbs of rust inside that cylinder.... The PO said he rebuilt the brakes, I wonder how long ago... Maybe, in fairness to him, he decided to avoid inspecting these cylinders to avoid the trouble of taking off the hub... That's possible. I like being fair and not negative, and give the benefit of the dought. (even though I've never understood that expression and have no idea what it means... .) 

Edited by 1958 rambler super - Aug/07/2022 at 4:02pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote devildog80 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/07/2022 at 4:09pm
Should be able to rebuild those on the car?

Not as easy as on the bench, but might be a whole lot easier than having to get them off first!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (2) Thanks(2)   Quote tufcj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/07/2022 at 4:12pm
The oldest I've done is a 61 American, but I was able to remove the wheel cylinder without removing the hub.  Take the 4 bolts out of the backing plate, it might allow it to tilt enough to remove the wheel cylinder.   You did remove the bleeder didn't you?

Bob
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you'll eventually pay for it...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ramblinrev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/07/2022 at 4:15pm
Try Bob's suggestion! There has to be a way to get that out!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mstrcrftr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/07/2022 at 4:43pm
X2 on bobs suggestion.. it will come out..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/07/2022 at 8:12pm

the benefit of the doubt

The withholding of judgment so as to retain a favorable or at least neutral opinion of someone or something when the full information about the subject is not yet available.
Roger Gazur
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote troutwilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/07/2022 at 8:51pm
Shoot us a pic of the back side.
Seems like if the bolts and the bleeder is removed it should slide out to the front or rear.
Bill O.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (2) Thanks(2)   Quote Buzzman72 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/07/2022 at 9:19pm
From what I see in the photo, this is a FRONT hub. What is gained by NOT removing the front hub?

NO PULLER is required. Remove the dust cap, remove the cotter pin from the castellated ["castle"] nut, remove the castle nut, and wiggle the hub. The single-toothed washer and outer wheel bearing cone should almost fall out into your hand. Then gently pull on the hub and the inner wheel bearing and seal will come off with the hub.

I NEVER, EVER do a front brake job, drum OR disc, without examining front wheel [hub] bearing cones and races. When in doubt, toss them out! Replace with new bearings AFTER you have PROPERLY packed the bearings with wheel bearing grease. Or if the bearings and races pass inspection, repack and reuse them. Replace the rear hub seal every time; it's just cheap insurance so wheel bearing grease doesn't contaminate the brake shoe linings.

This isn't an "unfortunate AMC design." Rather, it's a method to FORCE you to examine the wheel bearings whenever you do a front brake job. [And use a new cotter pin when you replace the hub. They're also cheap insurance against a fatigued cotter pin breaking. Not that there's a LOT of stress on the cotter pin, but because no one wants to lose a wheel at speed for lack of a 10-cent cotter pin.]

My first car was a '57 Rambler V8. There's no hoodoo/voodoo involved in replacing the front brakes. There is no design flaw. There IS such a thing as not being experienced working on front drum brakes on rear-wheel-drive cars. I'm just surprised no one before me caught that this was a front hub and not a rear. With no axle housing showing behind, and just the thin piece of one of the 2-piece lower-trunnion-style control arms, I thought it was obvious. The 1" wheel cylinders also tell me that this is a front, as the rears for a '58 Rambler Super are 13/16" diameter. But I've been working on these for 50+ years, so "I know a thing or two because I've seen a thing or two." [No, I don't sell insurance.]




Edited by Buzzman72 - Aug/08/2022 at 1:29pm
Buzzman72...void where prohibited, your mileage may vary, objects in mirror may be closer than they appear, and alcohol may intensify any side effects.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/08/2022 at 8:30pm
Yep, looks like front to me! Pull the hub. I've never run across one that I had to pull the rear hub to get off either.
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Buzzman72 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/22/2022 at 7:41am
So was the problem ever resolved?
Buzzman72...void where prohibited, your mileage may vary, objects in mirror may be closer than they appear, and alcohol may intensify any side effects.
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