amx air conditioning

A quick new post...I'm doing the homework to put Vintage a/c in my 68 AMX.  I'd like it to make use of the two factory center ducts (which I've got) and have a lower dash duct on each side. I've also got a factory a/c  compressor mtg. bracket &  adaptor to apply a Standen compressor.  The Vintage Air catalogue makes it look so easy (for designated cars) but I'm sure that's not the case.  I must say, I'm somewhat intimidated by the condenser fit and before taking things apart & buying more stuff, would appreciate some suggestions from you wizards out there.  The Gen 4 unit looks too big and directs the ducts in awkward ways???  The Gen 2 looks better, on paper anyway. Has someone done this exact installation & could offer a humble beginner some advise and consolation.   Thanks in advance, Karl     The previous posts don't seem to address this exact issue. 

Edited by 709karl - Nov/25/2021 at 11:23am

Thanks Bill, I'll save this in my acquiring info.!!  Karl

Before you start changing out any of the original hoses or other components, have someone familiar with automotive a/c systems check to see if there’s any charge remaining in the system AND if there’s any signs of the system having been “converted” from R-12 to R-134. If the system has no internal pressure remaining then the first thing I would do is check the compressor’s oil level to make sure it’s oil level is within spec. Long term oil loss due to seal and gasket seepage is common on these York compressors. If there’s any remaining pressure in the system then try turning the compressor over by hand a few revolutions to make sure that the compressor is not seized. When trying to turn the compressor over be sure to turn the inner hub of the compressor pulley or remove the belt, engage the a/c clutch and then turn the compressor a few full turns in the normal direction of engine rotation.
If the compressor passes the “rotation” test then the next step is the connect an a/c gauge set and vacuum pump to see if the vacuum pump can pull the system into a full vacuum and that the system will hold that vacuum. Ideally the system should be able to hold a vacuum indefinitely but for the purposes of this initial test an hour or so would be sufficient. If the system will hold vacuum then a small amount of charge could be installed and a leak test done.
At this point you have to make a decision how to proceed. You may want to retain the entire OEM system and if you do you would want to have the OEM receiver dryer rebuilt at the very least. Assuming the compressor is ok it would be a good idea to remove it from the car, drain out any remaining oil and refill it to spec with fresh oil. I believe the oil to use today is PAG oil which I believe is compatible with both R-12 and R-134. ( confirm with a/c expert ). Once everything is back together, connect the gauge set and pull a vacuum for at least and hour. Then shut the pump down and see if it will hold that vacuum overnight. If it does then you can decide if you want to charge the system with either R-12 or R-134. I would recommend that you try to secure some R-12. It’s still around, you can check the internet, eBay, etc. R-134 will work, it just doesn’t work as well at low speeds as R-12.
I’m told that to make best use of R-134 the OEM condenser should be changed to a parallel flow style condenser. Changing to a modern a/c compressor would also be a good idea if you don’t care about keeping the original look.
I can tell you that the original system with R-12 can get plenty cold. It’s only shortcoming is distribution by only having those two center a/c outlets. There are two under dash cooling tubes but they’re of little use. Adding the high speed blower relay, used on later models ( 71, 72 & up ? ) also helps.

I recently had my A/C restored in my i68' AMX 390. We sent the dryer out to get rebuld, all new hoses, new blower fan and seals and a Sandon compressor. It work decent now. It cost around $3500-4000