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AMC Newbee looking for T5 swap info

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Jeff Hornsby View Drop Down
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    Posted: Dec/21/2020 at 6:11pm
Old Fart Mopar guy here.. finally purchased a 69 javelin 343 SST always loved these cars. Original motor is gone but have a early 360 with what i believe are 71 heads.Its a auto car but really like to do a T5 manual swap. Ive been looking at the forums and found a lot of good information but just would like to see a parts list todo this conversion just one time without acquiring parts that wont fit/work.
Iam sure there's been many discussions about this.
Please help me out 
Jeff


Edited by ramblinrev - Dec/21/2020 at 6:24pm
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Trader View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/22/2020 at 10:32am
Can we please make any suggestions/corrections to this information and make it a Sticky.

T5 Swap into an AMC:

List parts for swap:

-                 Ford T5 Transmission or TREMEC T5Z
There are many versions of the T5 and many gear ratios and HP ratings. You have to calculate your 1st and OD final gear ratios with your differential ratio, and you’re driving “goals” to determine what is best for you.

-                 6.5” Bellhousing “multi fit” for T5, T4 and SR4 transmission, fork and TOB from an AMC 78 to 82 or Jeep years 1982 to 1986.

-                 Clutch and pressure plate, AMC 68 through 74.

-                 Bearing retainer from Jeep T4, T5 or SR4
Can modify the steel Ford bearing retainer by shortening the snout ¾” and turning the OD to fit the bell – 4.846” +/- 0.003” – measure!

-                 Pilot bushing OD 1.056’’, ID 0.673’’, 0,75’’ - measure

-                 Ford slip yoke 28 spline, 1.500” OD, Mustang 82-93

-                 AMC transmission cross member. This will need modification OR a piece fabricated and bolted to it to fit the T5 support.
The other option is to fabricate your own transmission cross member.

-                 T5 transmission support 80’-90’OR fabricate your own (fabricating your own means not cutting up the AMC cross member and being able to get clearance and angle of driveshaft/engine to AMC specifications.

-                 4 bolts 7/16 NC SAE grade 5 x 2-½” bolts – transmission to bell

-                 Your Z-bar is fine but you need to modify the TOB rod to fit or purchase a Jeep CJ rod 75 -82

-                 The T5 is close to the T10 floor pan hole, approximately ¾” back and in the center rather than the Hurst shifter that it offset to the driver side

-                 New drive shaft, typically around 51”, this has to be measured after the transmission is installed. The Ford slip yoke will have a 1330 u-joint and not the 1310 from the AMC T10. The slip yoke should be approximately 1” out from the tail housing and full weight on the rear axle to make the measurement.


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tomj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/22/2020 at 10:17pm
Wow, nice list!

I'd point out that is for 1972 and up only.

For 72 up, how much is the same v8 vs 6? I recognize most interest will be 8 cyls.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/23/2020 at 8:02am
This list is the same 72 and up for the I6 as the earllier bellhousing bolt pattern to engine are different. It's good for 67 and up for the V8 (290 to 401) as the flywheel takes the same clutch and the bellhousing bolt patterns are the same.
The flange difference on the crankshaft has no effect as the flywheel takes the same clutch. The pilot bearing may be different but I've done several and don't believe so. I make my own pilot bearings and always measure - so not taking notes on the OD's, cannot guaranty. This is why input and suggestions for a final list would be great.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Calcommon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/23/2020 at 3:22pm
I would add that an alignment procedure must be followed for installation. Run out on the bell-housing is a requirement for the warranty. To my knowledge, offset dowels are not readily available for early AMC blocks. I ended up drilling and installing alignment pins. Not a deal breaker, but a significant amount of work, all of which is much easier on the bench than under the car.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tufcj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/23/2020 at 3:37pm
I used a Quicktime AMC/GM bellhousing and a Legend SS700 trans.  The Quicktime bell was within Legend specs for runout.  Of course, not a budget build at $800 for the bell and $3600 for the trans, but it will be bulletproof behind a mild 475HP 390.

Bob
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tomj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/23/2020 at 11:16pm
When I swapped a T5 into my 61 American behind the non-Tri-Poise mount 195.6 OHV bell, I too had serious runout issues. The bell is located to the block with long-shoulder large bolts, not dowels, so no way to make offset dowels.

In my case I was using the Modern DriveLines T5 adapter, which bolts to the bell with flathead bolts, countersinks for the heads in the adapter. I determined the direction and amount of the error, marked the adapter up, put it on my Jet mill-drill, centered on the existing hole, lifted upt he quill, dialed the table over the correction amount, and "moved" the counterbore over and made it a bit deeper. I must have enlarged the hole, I forget. THe error was in the .010 range.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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scott View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scott Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/24/2020 at 1:14pm
This is all T5 specific parts, since that is what you asked about.

You can use the off the shelf pilot bushing PB76-HD.

Use a 4 speed transmission speedo cable for your application. The AMC parts vendors have the cables.

The driven gear on the end of the speedo cable is the same as the generic Ford gear. Lots available on Ebay & elsewhere.

Use a transmission mount for a 73 Mustang. You'll have to make a plate to adapt it to the AMC crossmember.

Use Crown Auto front bearing retainer J8134013. This is a Jeep part, lots of places to buy one.

You can use a 4 speed driveshaft, for your year & model of car, if you don't want to have a new one made. Use a Ford front yoke, for a T5 or C4 transmission. You'll need a conversion style of U joint to mate the two. I don't have a part # for the joint.

A 68-74 4 speed clutch won't work, wrong splines. Source one for a 1977 Jeep with a manual transmission & V8. Spend the $$ to get a really good clutch. I went with a generic parts store replacement & am not happy with it.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/24/2020 at 5:16pm
Excellent catch Scott, I always install a new clutch, use a 10.5"diaphragm, and forgot to mention it has to be for the Ford spline.
For the speedometer gear I use this calculator:
For choosing what I believe is the best transmission and differential I use this calculator:

Just personal opinion and driving:
1st should be between 9.5:1 and 11:1 for the street car. If you have a Jeep with a 33" tire then obviously you want a 11:1 to 13:1. These are not torque monster transmissions so don't think your going rock climbing with one.
For the street, for 1st to be useful, you need to get to 20 MPH in your RPM range. Anything lower and you will find 1st almost useless and 2nd too steep.
Also with this comes the 5th gear. 1st may be great but if 5th is out of your engine RPM range for the driving speed you do the stick to the T10.
One of these is likely going to be slightly off perfect. You will definitely learn it and happily live with it if driving street/highway. 
 



Edited by Trader - Dec/24/2020 at 5:19pm
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Jeff Hornsby View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jeff Hornsby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/10/2021 at 5:42pm
Hello again,..getting close now .added pedals to my auto 69 SST-343 Javelin . Actually added another auto pedal to my existing auto bracket ! Yeah the pedals are closer together than factory but modified clutch side to turn towards the driver door then used aftermarket AMC pads ,fabricated a upper Z Bar rod and  $100  bucks later the pedals are in ! I may have some tweeking to do later... 
Purchased a AMC multi fit T4/T5 aluminum bell housing and a used WC 89 mustang T5 and a "how to diy" book from paul  S. in florida and now iam ready to rebuild the trans. 
QUESTION: i need to replace the input shaft so do i need a AMC input or is the 9.25" - 10 spline mustang input ok to use? Either way i know the clutch disc will have to fit whatever i install.
I will post pics of the pedals  soon!!
Thanks so much !
Jeff H
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