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AMC 15 rear end |
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Navy06 
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Joined: Aug/01/2021 Location: Lynchburg TN Status: Offline Points: 27 |
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 Topic: AMC 15 rear endPosted: Aug/01/2021 at 11:39am |
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I have a DJ5 with a AMC differential. As I understand it the rear wheel bearings don't get oil from differential but have a grease packing. How often should these bearings be repacked? Is it advisable to remove the wheel hub or better to slide out entire axle? Dont want to remove hub then have problem getting back on and secured properly. Any advice on caring for the AMC 15 axle appreciated.
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tomj
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Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7555 |
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Posted: Aug/01/2021 at 11:23pm |
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They're sealed and lubricated "for life" meaning when they make noise, service them. Given that they last 20 - 40 years it's not so bad, and usually they slowly get noisy over time so plenty or warning.
THe axle nuts need retorquing more often than that; the splnes in the hard axle cut into the soft cast hub and are an elastic fit. What I do is pull the cotter, loosen a couple turns, lube the washer, torque to 250 ft/lbs, replace the cotter, done. Tighten to the next cotter hole. The only 3/4" drive tool I have is a breaker bar, extention, and the 1-5/16 or whatever socket it is. The extention is supported by a jack stand, concentric with the axle. The breaker bar is 18" (1.5 feet), I weigh 150, standing on the very end is 1.5 * 150 = 225 lbs of force. I bounce it a bit to the next cotter hole. I long ago stopped trying to separate the hub and axle at home myself. I pull the whole assembly out, take to a machine shop, and have the press the hub off, press the bearings off, new bearings on, then take it home for packing and assembly at home. Given I do this every 5 - 8 years on various cars it's for me the easiest path. It's easy enough to install all the junk at home, welding up wear grooves in the brake backing plates, painting, etc. |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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THE MENACE
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Joined: Nov/04/2008 Location: So. California Status: Offline Points: 4437 |
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Posted: Aug/02/2021 at 12:36am |
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I'm more familiar with Dana axles and the AMC model 20 so I could be wrong, but I don't think the AMC model 15 axle has sealed axle bearings.
Dennis
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Former Owner of:
The Craig Breedlove "AERO AMX" Still Owner: SS/AMX #9 replica (THE BIG MENACE) 70 AMX 416, EFI, Nash 5 speed 70 Javelin 401, 727 (Wife's car) 72 Gremlin Autocross Project. |
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FSJunkie
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Joined: Jan/09/2011 Location: Flagstaff, AZ Status: Offline Points: 4742 |
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Posted: Aug/02/2021 at 1:06am |
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I have a lot of Model 15 experience. The bearings have inner seals to keep the gear case oil separate from the wheel bearings which are greased. You can remove the axle shafts to clean and grease the bearings without removing the hub from the axle shafts, but it's harder and you cannot replace the bearing or the outer seal without removing the hub. It's easier just to buy or rent the hub puller and remove the hub from the start. You get the trick of it after a few times. The wheel bearings usually last 120,000 to 150,000 miles before they start making noise. You will definitely hear them growling if they need replaced. Repacking them before that happens can extend their life, but generally if you're going through the trouble of pulling it apart you might as well just put new bearings in. Don't forget the races too. How well you get the seals installed is a big factor on the bearing life. The inner seals keep gear oil from contaminating the bearing grease and the outer seals keep dirt and water from contaminating the grease. The better you get it sealed the longer the bearings will last. Shims on the driver's side only to adjust the end play. |
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1955 Packard
1966 Marlin 1972 Wagoneer 1973 Ambassador 1977 Hornet 1982 Concord D/L 1984 Eagle Limited |
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Navy06
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Joined: Aug/01/2021 Location: Lynchburg TN Status: Offline Points: 27 |
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Posted: Aug/02/2021 at 11:04am |
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Thanks all for the replies. That is great information and just what I was looking for. Is it possible to treat the axles like they are one piece and cut the old bearings and put new ones on from the other end of axle. Also when removing the axles do they just slide out or do you have to loosen something at the gear/pinon end by taking off housing cover?
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tomj
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Posted: Aug/03/2021 at 1:29am |
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YOu are correct, I should have been clearer. THe bearings (on AMC 15) are dumb old SET6, open conical bearings. It's "sealed" (sic) between the inner oil seal, and the outer oil/grease seal, by the assembly. It's not an enclosed, sealed, permanently-lubricated bearing. |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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tomj
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Posted: Aug/03/2021 at 1:35am |
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No. They press on from the hub end up to a machined step. They are also tapered roller bearings. THe shaft itself is tapered, a rough casting and machined only at the ends. There is no way around having to pull the hub.
No, there's no Ford type C-clip or other axle retention at least in the open AMC15. Though sometimes the bearing race doesn't want to come out, just stuck with old lube. The axle is retained by the outer seal plate which holds the SET6 bearing race in place. There are shims in the drivers? side? If you only change bearings and seals you can use the same shims, assuming they were correct when you pulled it apart. They usually are; but on my current project, a 1960 AMerican, I do axle bearings and seals without even thinking about it these days, someone had shimmed it tight/zero clearance. Luckily I had a stack of shims. 60 years is a long time... Do you have a factory Technical Service Manual for your car? They are invaluable. |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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Navy06
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Joined: Aug/01/2021 Location: Lynchburg TN Status: Offline Points: 27 |
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Posted: Aug/03/2021 at 7:40am |
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Thanks again for your post. My donor car for my Jeep CJ5 fiberglass body was a DJ5 mail jeep. A manual is hard to find and so far I don’t have one. Thru Internet searches I have been able to correlate it with AMC cars to find the right parts to restore. The Rock auto website helped a lot by comparing part numbers from different models. With the help received from this site I feel confident that I can replace the rear bearings when needed. It came from factory with a Pontiac 151 iron Duke engine and a Chrysler 904 transmission and both seem to be in great condition.
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Navy06
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Posted: Aug/03/2021 at 9:08am |
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When replacing the bearings and repacking is there a recommended grease to use? Also do you fill the space around bearing?
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FSJunkie
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Posted: Aug/04/2021 at 2:43am |
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A good quality wheel bearing or chassis grease is all it needs.
I've used Valvoline Crimson and Sta-lube Sta-plex in the past. I like Lucas X-tra too because it's a long life polyurea grease specifically designed for "sealed for life" assemblies. I solidly pack the bearing and smear a good amount inside the housing too. Don't pack the housing though, because there needs to be some air space allowing for thermal expansion.
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1955 Packard
1966 Marlin 1972 Wagoneer 1973 Ambassador 1977 Hornet 1982 Concord D/L 1984 Eagle Limited |
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THE MENACE wrote: