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Aftermarket AC Into a Marlin |
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SEdmonds
Moderator Group Joined: Jun/21/2009 Location: Arizona Status: Offline Points: 8194 |
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Posted: Sep/16/2011 at 11:12am |
It looks like we have found THE car - 66 Marlin, 327 and 4-speed. Runs and has all its goodies (some are bent, but they are there). The only thing missing is AC..BUT, after rebuilding my car's factory AC, I am thinking an after market unit might be a better way to go, anyway. I am not adverse to a period-correct under the dash unit that would look like it came out of 1966. Anyway, I've done a search and read that several people were happy with Classic Air. There are some other companies as well - any thoughts on them or on fitting an AC unit into a Marlin/Classic front clip that has a 327, and power steering and power brakes in it?
Edited by SEdmonds - Sep/16/2011 at 11:16am |
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gtoman_us
Moderator Group Joined: Jul/10/2007 Location: E. Nebraska Status: Offline Points: 3859 |
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Should be straight forward. Only need the compressor mount bracket and I think Kennedy has a modern Sanden compressor and bracket you will need to locate the idler pulley set set up. Other than that you should be able to get the rest from Classic Air underdash unit should give you everything you need. You might need a 55 amp alternator I know my Ambo is factory AC and has the larger unit
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Moderator - Emeritus
Used to collect trophies, now I collect gas receipts and put on miles 1964 Rambler Ambassador Cross Country Wagon 1965 GTO 1931 Model A original survivor "Flat Roofs are Cool" |
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ZCODE
AMC Apprentice Joined: Nov/13/2010 Location: KC Status: Offline Points: 78 |
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I have a non-AMC project that I am converting to a "modern" orifice tube setup. It allow me to use the AC setup with R134a. Do you have the front and center 327 AC York bracket? It is costing me about $500. Yet looks pretty stock. I took out the drier from the high side and used a orifice tube and put an accumulator on the low side.
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Schwalls
AMC Apprentice Joined: Sep/08/2007 Location: Des Moines, IA Status: Offline Points: 233 |
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ZCODE - I'd be interested in seeing pics and a parts list of what you are doing. I am getting started converting my car to AC. I have a factory AC dash unit that i will be using. I have the factory evaporator and dash unit but nothing else. I have a Sanden compressor and parallell flow condensor but everything else I still need to get. Scott |
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Scott
64 American Convertible 360 5sp http://www.schwallers.com/AMCpage.htm |
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tsanchez
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/09/2007 Location: Arizona Status: Offline Points: 4302 |
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I would prefer an expansion valve as using an orifice you will have to cycle your compressor to maintain low side pressure. Old school under dash is easy.
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ZCODE
AMC Apprentice Joined: Nov/13/2010 Location: KC Status: Offline Points: 78 |
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Underdash is easier since the Classic Air and Vintage Air have everything built in, but I have factory air with 3 dash vents and defrost. Underdash does a great job keeping my right knee cold. The problem with the expansion valve is that I am converting to R134a which is at a higher pressure and the expansion valve needs to be adjusted. It can be done, but mine was over 40 years old and in rough shape. I am cycling the compressor by using an accumulator with a pressure switch port.
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Z
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tsanchez
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/09/2007 Location: Arizona Status: Offline Points: 4302 |
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Expansion would give no issue, but a replacement for 134 is easily available and gives best cooling.
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ZCODE
AMC Apprentice Joined: Nov/13/2010 Location: KC Status: Offline Points: 78 |
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I think the best system depends on where you are starting from. If you have a non-AC system, underdash or using a vintage air gen II makes the most obvious choice. If you have factory air you look at the cost. I have a rock through my condensor so I am using an aluminum parallel flow condenser designed for R-134a. About 90 bucks from Nostalgic Air Parts. 50 bucks for a accumulator / drier and binary switch. (Jeep Liberty setup from Jeepair.com) You can get an inline switch port for $7 and a trinary switch if you want it to control an electric fan and cycle your compressor. I am just wiring the compressor through the switch to turn it off (cycle it off if pressure is to high or low). I picked up a chromed (20 horsepower gain) sanden compressor from a car show vendor for 125 dollars. I am using a $100 cut to fit line kit with R134a ports. I am having them crimped at a local shop. ACDelco orifice tube for 2 bucks.
I was going to need a rebuilt compressor, POA, expansion valve, new drier, probably new hoses, new oem condensor and tools and fluid to flush out R12 based oil and a 134a conversion kit. I figured I saved a few hundred bucks. If you have a good working AC system and want to convert from R12, I would just keep the expansion valve/ drier setup. |
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6768rogues
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 6234 |
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Before you buy a kit, measure the area available in the car for the condenser. It has been my experience that a generic kit does not always come with the largest condenser that will fit in the car. My Rogues have condensers that are 4 inches wider than the ones that the kits would have included had I not requested larger units. Larger condenser means more heat is given up, resulting in colder air.
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19611 |
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I have a cobbled together system -- original 63 evaporator and expansion valve under the hood, early 00's Chrysler LS crossflow condenser, late 80s Jeep Sanden compressor. Had to have hoses made with flares on one end and o-rings on the other, but everything works great. I charged it with EnviroSafe. No problems cooling, blows out ice cubes! At least it does for a few weeks. Seal in the compressor is leaking, have to replace it! It's from an 88 Jeep, so I won't complain. Have a used 99 Jeep compressor, will probably try that one.
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Frank Swygert
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