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After Market Front Suspension

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CamJam View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CamJam Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/25/2022 at 10:37pm
Any idea how these aftermarket suspensions compare with noise and ride comfort?  The factory strut rod setup transmits a lot of road noise and vibration on coarse pavement.  My racing days are over and these days I'm more interested in how the car rides and tracks down the road rather than how fast it is on the race track.

Edited by CamJam - Mar/25/2022 at 10:39pm
'73 Javelin 360 (current project)
'72 Baja Bronze Javelin SST
'69 Big Bad Orange AMX (2018 Teague Heritage Award) SOLD

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1958 rambler super View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/27/2022 at 10:42am
 Coloradoamx I almost went blind looking at that picture! It's so shiny! I have no idea how these things work, but I'll look into to it cuz I'm curious, but it looks like a certain type of chassis is required to set this up on your car, and not to sure if the chassis on my 1958 rambler super would be a appropriate chassis for it, not that I know I need to have diff suspension anyways...from the picture It looks like new control arms and new steering knuckle and new shock and spring would need to be installed on my old old car. 

Edited by 1958 rambler super - Mar/27/2022 at 10:45am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote troutwilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/06/2022 at 11:24pm
I just got my car back on the road with the full-up CF front and rear suspensions and Wilwood brakes.  I'm still messing with the shock dampening and rebound adjustments (there's 18 positions on each) but I can tell you the car handles much better.  You also have the ability to set the ride height.  It is so much more responsive and stable in the turns (but I haven't pushed it yet).  Overall I'm glad I did it.  Some things I didn't expect or necessarily like is you feel/hear much more of the road imperfections...I believe because of poly bushings vs. rubber (if you're getting that on your stock suspension it might be time for a rebuild).  Also, I opted for the power steering which is extremely light and quick...I would like to see what the manual steering is like.  My son and I installed the front suspension...pretty straight forward.  Had a shop do the cutting and welding for the rear.
Bill O.
70 AMX
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/07/2022 at 12:19am
Nice! Can you post photos?
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbwicz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/07/2022 at 5:12am
Originally posted by troutwilly troutwilly wrote:

I just got my car back on the road with the full-up CF front and rear suspensions and Wilwood brakes.  I'm still messing with the shock dampening and rebound adjustments (there's 18 positions on each) but I can tell you the car handles much better.  You also have the ability to set the ride height.  It is so much more responsive and stable in the turns (but I haven't pushed it yet).  Overall I'm glad I did it.  Some things I didn't expect or necessarily like is you feel/hear much more of the road imperfections...I believe because of poly bushings vs. rubber (if you're getting that on your stock suspension it might be time for a rebuild).  Also, I opted for the power steering which is extremely light and quick...I would like to see what the manual steering is like.  My son and I installed the front suspension...pretty straight forward.  Had a shop do the cutting and welding for the rear.

Are you running the same wheels and tires that you did before the change?  If you went from 15's to 17's, there will likely be more road noise and feel transmitted to the car as well.

Just a discussion point.  Glad you're happy!

Mike
1970 AMX, one step forward, one step back. Both steps cost time and money.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mopar_guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/07/2022 at 5:40am
Originally posted by troutwilly troutwilly wrote:

Some things I didn't expect or necessarily like is you feel/hear much more of the road imperfections...I believe because of poly bushings vs. rubber 
That's because CF switched from using poly bushings to rod ends in their control arm ends and tie rod ends. It's to save money and cheaper to manufacture but they're not for street cars. They ride hard and will make noise as they wear. Ridetech came out with ends that have composite cage to combat that called R-joints. They're not cheap but they work from what I've heard so far.

I had someone tell me that Fatman Fabrication doesn't sell their IFS for Javelins any more. The company was sold a year or so ago and there must have been some miscommunication because I spoke with Tim Tullo, the owner last week to find out what the deal is and yes, they will continue to offer IFS kits for both first and second gen Javelins and AMX's. They are weld in units. If you call and the sales person says no, or is not sure, ask for Tim. He'll be glad to help you. I have given him pictures of my install to share with customers that are interested in, or buying a kit to help them out. It's more work to install than a CF but way more cost effective and a better design IMO. I just wanted to pass this information along.

"Hemilina" My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dsr500sl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/07/2022 at 5:53am
Opentracker Racing has some performance upgrades for stock front suspensions - roller bearing spring perches and roller bearing control arms- for those that want to stay with the stock design with improved ride.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NorCalAMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/07/2022 at 8:23am
The Street Rod Engineering kit looks like a great budget type kit. Pretty much just uses parts that circle track cars have been using for 30 years. The only downside to that kit is the brake caliper bracket. That is an AFCO style bracket. If you AutoX or drive spiritedly with aggressive brake pads, you will find out in a hurry that those brackets will flex and bend which leads to uneven brake pad wear. I have a whole pile of those (bent) brake brackets some where. These brackets will address the issue and greatly improve brake consistency.
https://4raceparts.com/pinto-aluminum-caliper-bracket/





Edited by NorCalAMX - Apr/07/2022 at 8:52am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mopar_guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/07/2022 at 10:06am
Originally posted by dsr500sl dsr500sl wrote:

Opentracker Racing has some performance upgrades for stock front suspensions - roller bearing spring perches and roller bearing control arms- for those that want to stay with the stock design with improved ride.

Out of curiosity, how does that improve the ride when you take out all of the bushings and replace with bearings? It's no different than rod ends. You'll feel every little divot in the road. Confused There's a long thread on here about the strut rods ends they make and this is discussed.

"Hemilina" My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve_P Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/07/2022 at 6:23pm
Almost all modern (last 20 years) sports cars have rubber bushings everywhere, and they also outhandle anything 50 years old no matter what you do to them- short of installing a full late model Corvette suspension under them.  
First, it's tires, tires, tires.  Then sway bars, springs, shocks, and lastly suspension geometry.  
Nothing makes less sense than installing poly bushings and then running something like 14-15" BFG Comp TA tires- which is so common on vintage cars.
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