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Advice on 1963 Rambler American for buyer? |
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Linus4
AMC Fan Joined: May/03/2022 Location: CA Status: Offline Points: 2 |
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Posted: May/03/2022 at 5:47pm |
Hello everyone,
I'm considering a purchase of a 1963 Rambler American convertible. I have a few 1960s and 70s vehicles, but have never had an AMC. I'm curious mechanically how the reliability of this compares to something like the slant 6 and Ford/Chevy inline 6's of the era? This Rambler has a 'twin stick', which I assume is functionally like an overdrive of sorts. Are these reliable units? Are they up for driving on the highway (60-65ish)? Anything to look for? Any advice? Which exact motor is this? |
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ramblinrev
Moderator Group Joined: Dec/28/2008 Location: Wisconsin Status: Offline Points: 11468 |
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There are 2 smart guys here on the Forum who will fill you in everything you'd like to know about the 196 cast iron, Overhead Valve engine: Francis and Tom. I'm sure they'll chime in. (Pacerman knows a lot about these too.) The Twin-Stick is a great option, though expect to have to repair the Overdrive to make it work properly. And remember: 1st gear is NON-synchronized, so you have to be careful to have that thing at a full stop before shifting into first, or you will grind up that gear! A few things: 1. They are an old design, not meant for high revs, but for low speed torque. 2. The OHV engine (which you have) is prone to cracking heads, and leaky head gaskets, especially if overheated, or if the headbolts aren't retorqued every couple of years. 3. They need the valves adjusted according to specs. 4. They need regular oil changes, as the partial flow filter is not as effective as a full flow filter. 5. When in good shape, and taken care of, and driven sensibly, they are good motors. 6. Parts are getting harder to come by. A Chevy 6 of that era, or a Ford 6 of that era, was more modern, and probably a bit more durable (though the Ford 144 and 170 CID engines were real dogs compared to this, in terms of performance.) They are much happier cruising at 55 or 60, than 70. Get yourself a 1963 American Technical Service Manual on ebay or elsewhere. Ask questions. And, on the suspension end of things: get to know that old fashioned trunnion suspension, buy parts for it when you find them priced right, and keep them lubricated! I'm a longtime owner of a '62 Convert, so don't hesitate to ask anything. I might even have a few spare parts! Welcome! Paul
Edited by ramblinrev - May/03/2022 at 6:08pm |
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74 Hornet Hatchback X twins (since 1977)
62 American Convertible (still worth the $50 I spent in 1973!) AMCRC #513, AMO #384 70 AMX 360 4-speed (since 1981) |
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ramblinrev
Moderator Group Joined: Dec/28/2008 Location: Wisconsin Status: Offline Points: 11468 |
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Feel free to contact me if you want to talk through the car you're interested in. I can tell you what to check carefully. |
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74 Hornet Hatchback X twins (since 1977)
62 American Convertible (still worth the $50 I spent in 1973!) AMCRC #513, AMO #384 70 AMX 360 4-speed (since 1981) |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Online Points: 19611 |
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ramblinrev pretty much has it covered. The 196 is a reliable engine. As noted, it takes a little more maintenance than a more modern engine. Ford, Chevy, and Chrysler had new sixes out a bit earlier (Chrysler "Slant six" 1959, Chevy "Turbo-Thrift" in 62, Ford "Falcon" series in 1960) than AMC, which introduced the 232 "Typhoon" six in late 1964. The earlier sixes by the others needed more maintenance than their newer models also. Main thing is to torque the head! I'd torque it before driving much if you don't know when it was done last. The head bolts need to be checked every 10K miles or so. Factory manual says check every 8K, but I checked every 12-14K (every other year) when I daily drove one in the 80s and 90s for 14 years. I also adjusted the valves at that time. Head bolts are easy -- just set a clicker wrench to 62 ft-lbs and pull on each bolt. Some will move as much as a half turn, a few won't move at all, most will take 1/8-1/4 turn if it's been a while. Many don't know about this and neglect to do it -- especially if the head gasket has been changed. The head gasket has "no retorque required" printed on it, at least from 20 or so years ago it did. That doesn't mean you never retorue the head bolts though! What it means is you don't do what you had to do in the 50s -- torque the head down, drive 50 miles or so, then torque again! That was required on all cars due to the gasket material used. The 196 OHV needs retorquing because the head is a massive chunk of iron that expands and contracts as much as 0.020" every time it heats up and cools down. This eventually loosens the bolts a slight amount. When the head gasket starts leaking the first sign is usually the engine running hot. Don't correct it soon and you have a warped and maybe cracked head.
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Frank Swygert
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