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69 AMX Headlight switch problem?
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roadventure View Drop Down
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    Posted: Apr/22/2022 at 1:35pm
I am still not figuring out the problem I am having with my headlights (and other stuff).  Randomly, I turned on the headlights one day and the turn signal indicators came on steady, the radio came on and the electric choke unit on the carb heats up.  All this happens but the HEADLIGHTS DO NOT COME ON. 

  • I have confirmed all wires are attached to the headlight switch and the wiper switch
  • the dimmer switch is good and works, power to and from the dimmer switch is good
  • I replaced the headlight relay
  • all fuses are good and properly installed
  • all other lights work (front running lights, tail lights, brake lights, back-up lights, turn signals. interior lights, dash lights)
All other electrical seems fine.  But headlights do not work

Could this be a "bad" headlight switch?

What are symptoms of a dysfunctional headlight switch?
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Is the headlight switch properly grounded?
From the randomness of these connections, it's almost like the light switch is trying to find ground through other paths, i.e. ignition switch connected sources.
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BU1 View Drop Down
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Originally posted by roadventure roadventure wrote:

  • I replaced the headlight relay 
   ??? No relays on a 69 AMX. What part did you replace ????
AMO #2726
#1 1968 AMX Rally Green 343 Z code 4spd since 1975 #02642
#2 1968 AMX Rally Green 290 N code 4spd since 2019 #02959
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Most multimeters have a continuity test mode. If your meter doesn't have a mode that beeps when you touch the leads together you can use the Ohm meter, or spend $20 at the auto parts store. 

A link that talks about continuity mode:  https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/blog/digital-multimeters/how-to-test-for-continuity - https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/blog/digital-multimeters/how-to-test-for-continuity

The way I'd approach this problem is by unplugging the head light, and switch. Figure out which wire is the ground at the headlight. Then plug into one of the other two(high or low beam). Then test each wire at the switch for continuity to whichever wire you plugged into at the headlight. Make sure to flip the high beam/low beam switch for each wire, because it'll disconnect the high beam wire. If you don't find any wires with continuity, it's a wiring issue. If you apply power to the wire that has continuity, and the headlights turn on it's a switch issue.

To complicate matters, I had an electrical problem a long time ago, and I had 12V at the relay, but about 8V at the fuel pump. The issue was a wire was 7/8 broken off, so it showed good voltage under no load, and terrible voltage under load. To power your head lights you might try directly from the battery, and from the 12V line that comes up to the headlight switch if you continue to have difficulties.
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Points: 992 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote troutwilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/22/2022 at 11:03pm
Were you recently up under the dash messing with anything lately?  Maybe bumped some wires?

Make sure the switch is grounded.  Should be a (black) wire from the wire tab on the switch frame-work that goes to a body ground.

"Relay"?? Do you mean the high/low beam switch?

Hoping you have a wiring diagram.  You'll need one.
I'd next make sure all the wires to the switch come from and go to the correct places.

After that, I'd do some checking of the switch operation itself.  Easiest done with switch removed.  Label the wires as you remove them.  A continuity test on each tab will tell you if its functioning properly as you pull the switch on/off and turn it for dome and gauge lights.

If that all checks out your on to checking the condition of your wiring to the lights.
Bill O.
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george w View Drop Down
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Points: 2899 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote george w Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/23/2022 at 1:59pm
Headlight relay ? Something that you installed ? Headlight circuit is very simple. Battery power to headlight switch at all times. Power from headlight switch to dimmer switch on floor. Power from dimmer switch directly to headlights. Headlights ground path via black ground wire to body ground point near front fender, front radiator support area. Sounds like you have a grounding issue.

Also check the main body ground jumper that goes from the passenger side motor mount to the cross member. This must be clean and tight at both ends. This is the only ground bath for the body to get back to the battery negative post.
Long time AMC fan. Ambassador 343, AMX 390, Hornet 360, Spirit 304 and Javelin 390. All but javelin bought new.
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Points: 11538 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ramblinrev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/23/2022 at 2:49pm
Also consider replacing the dimmer switch. That can do some weird things when it's shot too.
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Points: 2899 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote george w Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/23/2022 at 4:49pm
Dimmer switch highly unlikely to be bad. Triggering other electrical “events” as noted originally points to a bad ground or a serious misfiring issue if an aftermarket wiring harness.
Long time AMC fan. Ambassador 343, AMX 390, Hornet 360, Spirit 304 and Javelin 390. All but javelin bought new.
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There is the spade connector tab at the back of the switch also. 
Believe it's purpose is for the courtesy lights grounding when the switch is rotated to the ON position and the internal relay seeing ground for it to trigger. 
Unless it's connected, the relay does not "see" more then 20 or 25 AMPs ? going through the switch and will allow much more current.
There are many different outputs on the switch but only one relay. It has to see ground though a single connection as there is no other grounds coming from the switch.
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Originally posted by BU1 BU1 wrote:

Originally posted by roadventure roadventure wrote:

  • I replaced the headlight relay 
   ??? No relays on a 69 AMX. What part did you replace ????


I was mistaken.  It is a relay for the electric choke on the Edlebrock carb.
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