Your donations help keep this valuable resource free and growing. Thank you.
|
‘66 Rambler classic 232 opinion needed |
Post Reply | Page <1234 5> |
Author | |
tomj
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7544 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I wouldn't make any assumptions, a compression test isn't that hard and is worthwhile knowledge.
Unless you know it's full history, it is far more likely that 46K miles is 146K, American cars having 5-digit odometers. How are the plugs? Is it burning oil? Etc. The 232 is a rugged beast, even if abused. It's also torquey and revs gladly (to 5K anyway) so you might not really need "more power", before you have a solid motor. All sorted out, good carb, good spark etc it will be pretty nice. If you indeed have the gumption to swap and rebuild, I'd suggest rebuilding your freebie that's already out of the car, drive and tune what you've got, then out the rebuilt 232 in. Also make sure they're the same generation 232 -- starter on the left, mainly. After 71 they switched to the V8 bell pattern. |
|
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
|
Itschrisb
AMC Fan Joined: May/26/2021 Location: Philadelphia PA Status: Offline Points: 18 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
It could possibly be 146k but story goes the guy I got it from knew the original owner and confirmed it is actually 46k miles. Either way the engine runs great. Plugs looked good when I changed them the other day. It doesn’t burn any oil and runs very smooth. I’ll switch to 20w50 and also do a compression test to see the health of the engine. I’d love to not have to pull this engine out. Edited by Itschrisb - May/28/2021 at 4:43am |
|
tyrodtom
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/14/2007 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 6213 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
If that idle oil pressure is after the engine is warm, that's not bad.
Unless it's a quality oil pressure gauge, it's readings might not be that accurate on the lower scale.
|
|
66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.
|
|
Itschrisb
AMC Fan Joined: May/26/2021 Location: Philadelphia PA Status: Offline Points: 18 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
The gauge is not high quality lol I don’t trust it 100% but the low reading does correlate with the valve clatter so it is accurate in that sense. I plan on changing that also. Cold start/idle it will sit at like 5-10psi at idle. You guys are making me feel less worried about the oil pressure.
|
|
vinny
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jan/05/2012 Location: Calgary Status: Offline Points: 2837 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Look up Matt's Old Cars Head Bolt Modification. If you remove the oil filler cap you should be able to see oil getting to the front rockers.
|
|
73Gremlin401
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Mar/02/2013 Location: Stmbt Sprgs CO Status: Offline Points: 946 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I'm in 100% agreement with going to 20w50 oil, doing that change to my 258 was literally like night and day in terms of valve train clatter. Modern 10w30 is way too thin, and if I remember correctly 10w40 was AMC spec on these back in the day. The 20w50 should quiet it down nicely, and bring your pressure numbers up a bit. Good luck!
|
|
73 Gremlin 401/5-spd.
77 Matador Wagon 360/727. 81 Jeep J10 LWB 360/4-spd 83 Concord DL 4-dr 258/auto |
|
Itschrisb
AMC Fan Joined: May/26/2021 Location: Philadelphia PA Status: Offline Points: 18 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
What’s everyone’s thoughts on synthetic oil in these old engines? I typically run it in everything I own. I’m thinking although it flows better which would actually bring oil pressure down slightly it’s more stable at higher temperatures which seems to be when my engine suffers the most from pressure issues. I figured a quality 20w50 synthetic, although more expensive, may be better than a cheaper conventional.
|
|
Heavy 488
AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/27/2019 Location: In the Status: Offline Points: 3553 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
The worn 258 I mentioned was switched from the 20w 50 to mobil1 synthetic since it was a year round transportation where we do have some chilly northern Illinois winters. The engine had 125k on the clock. Never had any sudden leaks pop up as many claim. When they were first introduced problems did occur since synthetics didn't have the same tendency to swell rubber like it's petro counterpart so they adjusted the additive package.
|
|
6768rogues
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 6237 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I would use conventional oil and change it often.
|
|
tomj
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7544 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
The Mobil1 15W-50 doesn't change viscosity with temperature anywhere near as much as conventional oil. But it is very expensive. 6768rogues is right, buy decent quality oil and change it often, is a better idea. Especially an old engine, if oil pressure has dropped due to wear, likely blowby is increased, and frequent oil changes are called for. And in my recent experience, driving a car (199ci American) that the owner changed inexpensive oil very frequently (1000 - 2000 miles) frequent changes are the way to go.
I used to do the opposite; top-quality oil changed at max. recommended intervals. I don't think this is a bad approach, but I think old Esmond's 'frequent' method is visibly better. I'm glad 20w-50 solved the short term problem. |
|
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
|
Post Reply | Page <1234 5> |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |