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‘66 Rambler classic 232 opinion needed

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tomj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/27/2021 at 10:28pm
I wouldn't make any assumptions, a compression test isn't that hard and is worthwhile knowledge.

Unless you know it's full history, it is far more likely that 46K miles is 146K, American cars having 5-digit odometers.

How are the plugs? Is it burning oil? Etc.

The 232 is a rugged beast, even if abused. It's also torquey and revs gladly (to 5K anyway) so you might not really need "more power", before you have a solid motor. All sorted out, good carb, good spark etc it will be pretty nice.

If you indeed have the gumption to swap and rebuild, I'd suggest rebuilding your freebie that's already out of the car, drive and tune what you've got, then out the rebuilt 232 in. Also make sure they're the same generation 232 -- starter on the left, mainly. After 71 they switched to the V8 bell pattern.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Itschrisb View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Itschrisb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/28/2021 at 4:40am
Originally posted by tomj tomj wrote:

I wouldn't make any assumptions, a compression test isn't that hard and is worthwhile knowledge.

Unless you know it's full history, it is far more likely that 46K miles is 146K, American cars having 5-digit odometers.

How are the plugs? Is it burning oil? Etc.

The 232 is a rugged beast, even if abused. It's also torquey and revs gladly (to 5K anyway) so you might not really need "more power", before you have a solid motor. All sorted out, good carb, good spark etc it will be pretty nice.

If you indeed have the gumption to swap and rebuild, I'd suggest rebuilding your freebie that's already out of the car, drive and tune what you've got, then out the rebuilt 232 in. Also make sure they're the same generation 232 -- starter on the left, mainly. After 71 they switched to the V8 bell pattern.


It could possibly be 146k but story goes the guy I got it from knew the original owner and confirmed it is actually 46k miles.

Either way the engine runs great. Plugs looked good when I changed them the other day. It doesn’t burn any oil and runs very smooth. I’ll switch to 20w50 and also do a compression test to see the health of the engine. I’d love to not have to pull this engine out.



Edited by Itschrisb - May/28/2021 at 4:43am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tyrodtom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/28/2021 at 6:45am
If that idle oil pressure is after the engine is warm,  that's not bad.

Unless it's a quality oil pressure gauge,  it's readings might not be that accurate on the lower scale.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Itschrisb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/28/2021 at 7:03am
Originally posted by tyrodtom tyrodtom wrote:

If that idle oil pressure is after the engine is warm,  that's not bad.

Unless it's a quality oil pressure gauge,  it's readings might not be that accurate on the lower scale.

The gauge is not high quality lol I don’t trust it 100% but the low reading does correlate with the valve clatter so it is accurate in that sense. I plan on changing that also. Cold start/idle it will sit at like 5-10psi at idle. 

You guys are making me feel less worried about the oil pressure.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vinny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/28/2021 at 8:08am
Look up Matt's Old Cars Head Bolt Modification.

If you remove the oil filler cap you should be able to see oil getting to the front rockers. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 73Gremlin401 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/28/2021 at 10:35am
I'm in 100% agreement with going to 20w50 oil, doing that change to my 258 was literally like night and day in terms of valve train clatter.  Modern 10w30 is way too thin, and if I remember correctly 10w40 was AMC spec on these back in the day. The 20w50 should quiet it down nicely, and bring your pressure numbers up a bit. Good luck!
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83 Concord DL 4-dr 258/auto

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Itschrisb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/28/2021 at 10:55am
What’s everyone’s thoughts on synthetic oil in these old engines? I typically run it in everything I own. I’m thinking although it flows better which would actually bring oil pressure down slightly it’s more stable at higher temperatures which seems to be when my engine suffers the most from pressure issues. I figured a quality 20w50 synthetic, although more expensive, may be better than a cheaper conventional.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Heavy 488 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/28/2021 at 11:11am
The worn 258 I mentioned was switched from the 20w 50 to mobil1 synthetic since it was a year round transportation where we do have some chilly northern Illinois winters.  The engine had 125k on the clock. Never had any sudden leaks pop up as many claim. When they were first introduced problems did occur since synthetics didn't have the same tendency to swell rubber like it's petro counterpart so they adjusted the additive package. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6768rogues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/28/2021 at 4:40pm
I would use conventional oil and change it often. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/29/2021 at 10:00pm
The Mobil1 15W-50 doesn't change viscosity with temperature anywhere near as much as conventional oil. But it is very expensive. 6768rogues is right, buy decent quality oil and change it often, is a better idea. Especially an old engine, if oil pressure has dropped due to wear, likely blowby is increased, and frequent oil changes are called for. And in my recent experience, driving a car (199ci American) that the owner changed inexpensive oil very frequently (1000 - 2000 miles) frequent changes are the way to go. 

I used to do the opposite; top-quality oil changed at max. recommended intervals. I don't think this is a bad approach, but I think old Esmond's 'frequent' method is visibly better.

I'm glad 20w-50 solved the short term problem. 


1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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