TheAMCForum.com Homepage
Forum Home Forum Home > The Garage > AMC V8 Engine Repair and Modifications
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - 327 Question: Will heads support 300 HP?
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

Click for TheAMCForum Rules / Click for PDF version of Forum Rules
Your donations help keep this valuable resource free and growing. Thank you.

327 Question: Will heads support 300 HP?

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <1234 5>
Author
Message
Buzzman72 View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Sep/15/2009
Location: Southern IN
Status: Offline
Points: 2726
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Buzzman72 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/17/2022 at 9:44pm
I got a reply from Ken Parkman [THANKS!], and now I need to turn to the "brain trust" here. Apparently I've allowed my own brain t'rust, and I need to consult people much more recently experienced than I.

I'm trying to pencil out a build on a 327 for a '57 Rebel. I'd rather get it figured out on paper before I spend the bucks on something that I may not be able to make work. The 327 in that car had 9.7:1 compression from the factory, and I'm trying to pencil out how to keep the static compression ratio and still make pump gas work. 

Obviously, I'm looking at a build using a more modern camshaft [providing I can get a core to have ground], but I'm getting hung up by dynamic compression ratio. The cams that I'd use in a Gen2/3 engine won't lower the DCR below 9.0, and the cams that move the power band higher in the rpm range to the max I think is acceptable for a "sleeper' still only take the DCR down to about 8.8:1. 

And the rule of thumb is to keep it at or under 8.5:1 to use pump gas.

I've considered using E85 for the 108 octane rating, but that also has lower BTUs; and while the car might not ping/detonate, but with lower BTUs it would also be down on power unless it's richened up a lot. I don't want to lose the torque the original Rebel 327 had. I'm looking at using 1.85/1.5 Chevy 305 valves to help a little, and I know the exhaust side flow will still be horrible. Cam specs i have in mind are around 206/216 @ .050" lift, with around .440" lift max, and around 112-114 degree LSA.

So what are my options? I'm not planning on a Vortec, because the stock compression is already around the limit for a strictly street ride and I don't need any more cylinder pressure [though once built, I might like to see if I can beat the factory Rebel 0-60 and 1/4-mile times]. 

Right now, it's all theoretical because I want to have a workable plan BEFORE I spend the bucks. And if anyone has a good contact for Gus Averill on his adapter for a 700R4, that would help. I think I can use an AMC 20 rear out of a '67-up Rebel/Ambo/Matador and weld in the factory brackets for the rear control arms so I can go to a 3.73 or 4.10 rear gear with the 700R4, using a set of Dr. Diff axles to lose the 2-piece design. The gears for the torque tube axles in those ratios seem to be made of unobtanium.

The ultimate goal is to build a '57 Rebel with a 327, a 4-speed Hydramatic [700R4 is still a Hydramatic, right?], that will match or exceed stock '57 Rebel performance. Adapting EFI might enter the picture if the budget can be found; then the Rebel I'm looking to build would be fairly close to what AMC intended the original to be.

So if you can help me out on the DCR dilemma, I might be able to see this project move off the drawing board and into the garage. I just want to have a plan that can be made to work. As in, "plan your work, and then work your plan." Thanks in advance for any helpful ideas.


Edited by Buzzman72 - May/17/2022 at 9:47pm
Buzzman72...void where prohibited, your mileage may vary, objects in mirror may be closer than they appear, and alcohol may intensify any side effects.
Back to Top
PROSTOCKTOM View Drop Down
Supporter of TheAMCForum
Supporter of TheAMCForum
Avatar

Joined: Jun/20/2010
Location: Indiana
Status: Offline
Points: 2458
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PROSTOCKTOM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/17/2022 at 10:04pm
I would seriously look into using a 200R4 over a 700R4 any day of the week. The 700R4 has to deep of a 1st gear. It will go like all get out in first, but they fall on there nose in 2nd gear. A 200 R4 has a much nicer split. My friend Tom has owned a transmission shop for 40-years and I've ridden in a lot of hot customer cars over the years with 700R4 transmissions. Including a husband and wife that have matching Buick Grand National bracket cars that have 200R4's in both of them. While you're in the planning stages you might want to take a look at the differences in ratios between the two.

Tom 
Molnar Technologies Full Service Dealer - Crankshafts & Connecting Rods

1969 AMC Rambler Rouge Race Car
1974 AMC Hornet Hatchback, Wally Booth Outlaw Nostalgic Pro Stock Race Car Project
Back to Top
Trader View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted


Joined: May/15/2018
Location: Ontario
Status: Offline
Points: 6913
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/18/2022 at 6:57am
Can you please post the head flow numbers your going to work with.
Need to no as many details as possible on head flow to figure out best camshaft LSA, SCR and DCR configuration.
As you stated, you need to burn more E85 to get the same BTU as gasoline, more head flow. Restricted head flow pretty much dictates gasoline would be the better fuel. 
Back to Top
mbwicz View Drop Down
Supporter of TheAMCForum
Supporter of TheAMCForum


Joined: Feb/20/2019
Location: Buffalo, NY
Status: Offline
Points: 2001
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbwicz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/18/2022 at 7:26am
Originally posted by PROSTOCKTOM PROSTOCKTOM wrote:

I would seriously look into using a 200R4 over a 700R4 any day of the week. The 700R4 has to deep of a 1st gear. It will go like all get out in first, but they fall on there nose in 2nd gear. A 200 R4 has a much nicer split. My friend Tom has owned a transmission shop for 40-years and I've ridden in a lot of hot customer cars over the years with 700R4 transmissions. Including a husband and wife that have matching Buick Grand National bracket cars that have 200R4's in both of them. While you're in the planning stages you might want to take a look at the differences in ratios between the two.

Tom 

  I agree with this.  I had a car with a 700R4, and if I was stopped at the end of my driveway, by the time I turned and straightened the wheels out, the car was already in second gear.  And if I was jumping on the car in a straight line, first gear came and went quickly as well, with a pretty big drop to second gear.
  And if you are running 373 or 410 gears, the lockup torque converter would be a good thing for cruising.  If you have a taller ratio than that, the lockup converter may lug the engine too much.  Just another opinion, good luck with your project.

Mike

1970 AMX, one step forward, one step back. Both steps cost time and money.
Back to Top
gtoman_us View Drop Down
Moderator Group
Moderator Group
Avatar

Joined: Jul/10/2007
Location: E. Nebraska
Status: Offline
Points: 3871
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gtoman_us Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/18/2022 at 8:12am
I believe Gus is no longer with us?  I was hung-ho on using his adaptor set up for the torque tube.  He and I spoke. He provided drawings and detail installations.  I drug my feet and missed opportunity to add a modern OD transmission.
Moderator - Emeritus

Used to collect trophies, now I collect gas receipts and put on miles

1964 Rambler Ambassador Cross Country Wagon
1965 GTO
1931 Model A original survivor
"Flat Roofs are Cool"
Back to Top
Trader View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted


Joined: May/15/2018
Location: Ontario
Status: Offline
Points: 6913
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/18/2022 at 10:29am
If you had the camshaft ground to 216/206, that would be better for HP. 
These numbers balance intake to exhaust area under the curve for optimum combustion charge.
Need the intake charge, the exhaust is under pressure and will flow faster at first release. Headers will do the work after for moving exhaust. With the 1.84/1.5 valves, you will need an intake head flow of 200 CFM to get 300 HP @ 4460 RPM.
Back to Top
Buzzman72 View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Sep/15/2009
Location: Southern IN
Status: Offline
Points: 2726
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Buzzman72 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/18/2022 at 12:13pm
That's the kind of information I'm needing. I don't have actual flow numbers, but Ken Parkman tells me that the intake side is "actually quite good considering," and the exhaust side is, as we know, "terrible and "very" hard to fix."


Buzzman72...void where prohibited, your mileage may vary, objects in mirror may be closer than they appear, and alcohol may intensify any side effects.
Back to Top
Buzzman72 View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Sep/15/2009
Location: Southern IN
Status: Offline
Points: 2726
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Buzzman72 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/18/2022 at 12:18pm
Originally posted by gtoman_us gtoman_us wrote:

I believe Gus is no longer with us?  I was hung-ho on using his adaptor set up for the torque tube.  He and I spoke. He provided drawings and detail installations.  I drug my feet and missed opportunity to add a modern OD transmission.

Do you have any of the drawings? Or do you know where I can obtain them? Obviously, the viability of this project depends on being able to use a modern overdrive transmission. 

While the 0-60 time of the '57 Rebel was established with a manual transmission with overdrive, I believe that today, using the same 4.10 gearing AMC used with the manual transmission, one might be able to actually improve on the 0-60 and 1/4-mile times using an automatic OD trans.
Buzzman72...void where prohibited, your mileage may vary, objects in mirror may be closer than they appear, and alcohol may intensify any side effects.
Back to Top
gtoman_us View Drop Down
Moderator Group
Moderator Group
Avatar

Joined: Jul/10/2007
Location: E. Nebraska
Status: Offline
Points: 3871
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gtoman_us Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/18/2022 at 1:08pm
Originally posted by Buzzman72 Buzzman72 wrote:

Originally posted by gtoman_us gtoman_us wrote:

I believe Gus is no longer with us?  I was hung-ho on using his adaptor set up for the torque tube.  He and I spoke. He provided drawings and detail installations.  I drug my feet and missed opportunity to add a modern OD transmission.

Do you have any of the drawings? Or do you know where I can obtain them? Obviously, the viability of this project depends on being able to use a modern overdrive transmission. 

While the 0-60 time of the '57 Rebel was established with a manual transmission with overdrive, I believe that today, using the same 4.10 gearing AMC used with the manual transmission, one might be able to actually improve on the 0-60 and 1/4-mile times using an automatic OD trans.

I will need a few days when back home to try and locate.  He sent them via email and since it was 9-10 years ago, now I can’t locate the email exchanges.
He include starter PN, Torque converter data, speedometer hook up.
Moderator - Emeritus

Used to collect trophies, now I collect gas receipts and put on miles

1964 Rambler Ambassador Cross Country Wagon
1965 GTO
1931 Model A original survivor
"Flat Roofs are Cool"
Back to Top
Ken_Parkman View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted


Joined: Jun/04/2009
Location: Ontario
Status: Offline
Points: 1814
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken_Parkman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/18/2022 at 2:22pm
A comment on the Dynamic Compression ratio theory - I consider it utter hokum and would not use it to design an engine particularly a 327 Rambler.
The only case where it may be valid is where you have good empirical data on the same combination. Otherwise there are far too many more important variables to use a static intake closing point. Particularly on a Gen 1 Rambler with the plug way over to the side making for a long flame travel combustion chamber. Much more susceptible to detonation. Recommend not to push compression ratio and pump gas.
 
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <1234 5>
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.03
Copyright ©2001-2019 Web Wiz Ltd.

This page was generated in 0.531 seconds.
All content of this site Copyright © 2018 TheAMCForum unless otherwise noted, all rights reserved.
PROBLEMS LOGGING IN or REGISTERING:
If you have problems logging in or registering, then please contact a Moderator or